This post is long but I tried to be as complete as possible because I had some serious concerns about the routing of the fuel lines and wires.

Note: I wrote this as a record of what I did. Its not meant to be a DIY, nor do I wish to discourage you from using your (competent) dealer for this service.

At 790 and 820 miles I checked the valve clearance on my 2 FST Switchbacks.

First thing to know is that the 2006 manual is way wrong, there is no need for the guillotine tool (thanks to ExcursionPSD) and the inch metric conversion in the chart is off. Since this is a kraut motor I am confident that the metric specs are the right ones. Although I worked in Metric, here are the corrected inch numbers:

Turbo
Intake: .003"-.006"
Exhaust: .006"-.0087"

Non turbo
Intake: .003"-.006"
Exhaust: .007"-.0098"

Although this job was not difficult it did take considerable time. Cleanliness is a must. You also need the service manual, a good micrometer and feeler gages.

One machine was on the big side but within specs everywhere so I left it alone, in retrospect I should have tightened it up a bit. As it is now I will look at it at 1500 miles or so.

While I was removing everything (seat, gastank, console, boost box, boost tube, air box, secondary clutch for room, ignition coils), I noticed that several wires and hoses were rubbing here and there. The throttle cable was misrouted under the fuel return line and had nearly worn thru the rubber cover, the aluminum coolant line was rubbing the mag side coil, and the reference hose to the fuel regulator was badly worn.

Once the valve cover was off the check took about 30 minutes:

1. Measured clearance when piston is at TDC and recorded for each valve.

2. Again while at TDC remove the rocker axles and rocker arms, one at a time. Record existing shim thickness for each and valve reinstall shims. (need to move oil tank for mag side)

3. Determine from chart what shims needed to be ordered and what could be used in another location. In this case all 8 were out of tolerance. Most were only out by .025-.035mm the worst one was .090mm due to the fact that the holes in the rocker arm supports are not perfectly in-line causing a slight bind on this axle.

4. I ordered 6 shims, overnight delivery, and reused 2. ~$4.00 each.

5. Install new shims and recheck clearance.

6. Reassemble.

Next is where the time consuming part starts

Here is what I can remember doing during re-assembly to resolve any wear issues. Note: I took my time tying and retying until I was satisfied that I had the best configuration.

1. I must have used 50 zip-ties to secure everything that could potentially rub.

2. I moved the main wiring harness to the right of the steering tube because with the handlebars full forward it got pinched between the steering tube and the fuel rail putting undue stress on the rail.

3. I cut about 2" off of the coolant overflow tube and tied it to the aluminum line.

4. Re-routed brake line to right side of handlebar wiring harness to prevent harness rubbing on steering stop welded to steering tube.

5. replaced worn and wrapped the fuel lines as shown with Helical Bundling Wrap then covered them with split sleeve poly loom secured with small zip ties. Overkill, I know.

6. Put an M6 bolt/flat washer in the threaded boss on PTO side of the valve cover to retain a zip-tie combo for the fuel return line

7. Zip tied everything, within reason!

8. Lastly I put some High Temp Ceramic Insulation Strip (mcmaster carr item# 4057K2) on the rubber support under the silencer, which had signs of heat damage and on the silencer adjacent to
the coolant manifold. I hope the adhesive will hold up.


Worn Line Click to view attachment
Coolant Rubbing Click to view attachment
Moved Harness
Note Fuel Lines Wrapped Click to view attachment
Wrap Fuel Line Click to view attachment

Good info, I will be using this when I check mine. Thanks :beerchug:

I was going to wait for an 2007 Shop Manual so they could get the bugs out of the 2006 manual.

Anyone who is a dealer out there know if they did that or are they the same?

Things like half rubbed fuel and coolant lines raise the hair on the back of my neck. Wonder how long before the machine would have been rendered inoperative???? Makes me loose that warm and fuzzy feeling.

The 07 shop manual has many updates and "fixes" to the 06 manual. Dealers have been told to use the 07 manual.