I'll probably sound like an idiot but I don't know if i'm positive what the driven spring adjustment exactly does but i'm assuming it probably adjusts your RPMs at full shift out. The reason I ask is we were working on my cousins M7 it came with a speedwerx clutch setup which had a odd helix for mtn riding a 52-38 so we are swapping it back to the standard flat 36. The spring adjuster had been turned in all the way and we were wondering if thats what its supposed to be set at or were we should start with it at. Thanks for any help.

On a side not i've never had a harder time swapping out weights. Lots of propane, 3 allen wrenches, 4 drill bits, 1 weight pin and several hours of swearing later we finally got the weights out. We tried heating them up with a butane torch lighter that didn't work. So we went and got a propane torch deal and used that and we were able to get one out with a decent amount of effort. The next two we ended up bending and actually twisting the allen wrenchs (this isn't my first time changing weights either). We ended up drilling the allen screws out as much as we could so they woudl break then pounding the pins out. Man the weights and allen screws were hard. Oh well were done need to go pick up one new pin tommorow and it should all go back togethor easier I hope. Oh by the way if someone needs a slightly used set of speedwerx R-2 weights w8ing4snow has a set for sale lol. Nevermind the drill marks thats not a big deal. If anyone has an idea why they were stuck in there so bad i'd love to hear it.

I just changed the weights in mine and had the same problem. Three allen wrenches, and some drill bits.

Yea same thing I just changed my weights today and what a bear! My allen wrenches look like candy canes and the pins were very sticky. Only 120 miles on mine. I believe the pins were so sticky due to a thread locker(orange) on the bushings. Lots of propane too. They slid easily back in though. What did you guys use the drill bits for?

PB blaster soak them before tackling that bear.

The stock white spring sould be about .25" in from the end cap.

Take note of the springs that have been in there. Note the paint missing off the inner end of the spring. There is some binding taking place and will keep binding stopping the shift. D&D makes a shift assistor that works very very well. It is not just stopping the shift but making the finished spring rate change each and every time it shift out there. It can even back out the ajuster.

If I was you I would put that 58/38 helix back in.....I bet it realy is a 48/38 and get your self the new cats orange spring that is 175/280 with the D&D shift assistor and she will rip. The M8 has a 44/40 with this spring.

Now look at the primary spider cup for the spring digging in there too. Milling out the spider will help with consistancey too. Take it wider to the brace and straight in. Keep up off the bottem of the spring cup .125" don't take it all the way down to the bottem of the cup and don't take it any deeper. If you pay attention to parts and where they are wearing you will find little speed secrets. This was to the tune of 2hp to the track with all being left alone.

Don.

Thanks Donno I figured you would chime in here eventually. Yeah we both are planning to add the D&D shift assist here soon and play around with your other ideas when we get a chance. I think that speedwerx helix would work good around here but for out west its just to much angle IMO. It would spin the track every time you hit the throttle which can be a problem in bottomless powder out west. I like a flat helix it seems to keep its belt pressure better atleast with the old clutch i'm still lost with this new one and from the way the secondary looked it definetly had been slipping alot last year.

Isn't the new orange secondary spring longer than the 05/06 springs? Thought I read they changed the secondary clutch to accept longer springs or something...

I don't know for sure but I do know for sure is that the orange spring is kicking A$$ in the M7 out west. I have a buddy that did this milling in the primary and relived the spring in the secondary. He can hold 55mph track speed in a climb and that is sweet for a 700.

The key here is the spring cup in the primary. YOu will have consistant spring rate with out it hanging up. See how bad the orange/white was hanging up. Not a stich of paint on her on one end.

NDMtnSledder the straight 36 works very very well. If you have the stock .068 or .065 belt to sheave then stick with the straight 36 if you tighten this up to about .020 or .025 then you will be fine with the 48/38 and heavyer spring. If you want to play with it then this is where to look first.

Cheers Don.

Thanks donno really appreciate it. Seems like everything I learned about the clutches before is out the window or not the problems with the new one. Its nice to have someone like you that has a handle on it and got all the tricks figured out. What would we do without the forums.

You know what is funny. Some guys are pissed off I have posted this information. I have gotten a few IMs in other forums to keep what I have found to my slef......yet they would never tell me this info.

I my self is totaly over the full on race deal. I like to make my trail sled run as best it can.

I supose I will get black balled and have to find a site where the good old boys hang.

Cheers Don.

Hey Don

Have any pics or install tips on the shift assist ?

Matt

Ya you just drop it in insted of the black plastic ring that is under the spring.

Is it doing this on the 06 also. Just courious if I need to start changing stuff already.
THanks

Well, I had my machine into the dealer for that recall the other day and by's to be perfectly honest I know very little about clutches. I bought that adjuster tool today actually becuase, when I was at the dealer I was telling him that the ol M6 had a little bog on the bottom end, everyone seems to blame it on the EFI but I don't think so. He looked at that white spacer and said it needs to be in about a 1/4" and he directed me to play with different distances till I find one that I like. Again clutches and I don't mix well, as a matter of fact I was reading through the Shop Manual the other day and there is some tool for changing the belt? Hmm would of saved my knuckles. Anyway seeing donno is the resident expert on this subject am I a little foolish for attempting to do anything with that washer, granted it is now ~1/8" from the cover. That white washer holds that cover in correct, and the torque scres and that rubber plastic thing there can come off right to adjust that white washer. I have been just looking at all of this and scratching my head, I usually don't shag with things till they break but I would like to learn a little something about this so I can tweak it in a little.

Thanks, and please find a sense of humor in my cluelessness on this front.

NewfieCat

I finally got my OVS kit in my M6 and rode it this past week. I also had the primary cleaned out and installed a stiffer polaris spring. I'm running the red/white in the secondary. It back shifts really well now with the new primary spring. Giantkillerf5's M7 just has the OVS kit and it does not backshift like mine with the updated primary components. Both sleds are much quicker than previously.

Newfiecat, to simplify, the large white ring, behind the aluminum cover, that has 6 holes in it, is threaded into the helix. You can turn this in, if you have the tool with three prongs, even with the aluminum cover still in place, through the slots cut in the cover. By turning this in, you increase preload on the secondary spring, which slows upshift, and aids backshift. Pretty cool tuning tool, really.

The plastic piece outside the cover, with three holes in it, is for adjusting belt deflection. The washers behind it control how far in you can tighten it, which pulls the secondary closed slightly to adjust belt deflection, so FEWER washers means TIGHTER deflection.

good luck,
John

Thanks, so by slowing my upshift am I still expecting to have that low end bog that I was experiencing. So slow upshifting means quick response or is it as it says slower response, more bog?

Think of the secondary spring holding the sheeves together. If you squeeze them harder, it doesn't shift out as easy, which is like staying in first gear longer. If your sled is pulling the helix/spring/gears you have, slowing the upshift only slows the sled and causes over-rev. I can't diagnose your low end bog from here. It might be fuel, or your can, or your helix, or something else entirely.

John

Thanks for trying though, greatly appreciated

Your in Ontario here with an M6 right? I am too and the first thing you should do is get rid of that white spring...........realy. It is letting your secondary up shift way to fast. I tryed the EPI mooroun first and it was lighter and killed my bottem end just the same. You will see the outter most edge of the secondary is very shinny that is the belt slippiing and not staying there long. If i was you I would try to lay my hands on a 44/40 and the cats new orange spring. If you need to stay with the straight 36 and run the T660 platnium cat secondary spring. Run the cat 70 gram weights with the yellow/white spring and move the secondary in from perfect with the stock bar .120"s If you measure off the motor plate your measure sould look like this. See where 3.25"s is? When in right you should have 3.125" and run the stock 036 as tight as you can. When it starts to chirp back out the smallest shim. Shims behind the secondary are different than the ones on the deflection ajuster. Your M6 will run better with the F up-dated deflection ajuster. It will strenthen your end cap under heavy load. IF you flip your attack20 to hill climb she will want to rip your arms off pulling so hard. Get up on the bars or she will go over backwards.

Your belt in the clutches should look like this when you look down them. See how the outter most part of the belt is flush with the outter most part of the secondary?

This should get you goinging quite well. You will not mph much higher than 98mph unless you mill out the spider then you should see 105mph with the 57/63 gears.

For ride you should get the holz kit and re-valve your shocks to the 06 spec. Move the rear springs slider back 1.5"s and back the front skid spring and shock all the way out with only two turn pre-load. Same with the front springs on the A arms. Other than that she should ride on the trails just as good if not better than the fire cat.

Don.