I've got a 96 xcr 440 sp. Everything is stock in the motor. Recently it has been bogging down once in a while when I give it gas (after its warmed up). It will rev to about 4900 rpm but the sled won't move. My clutch engages around 5k. When this does happen and i let off on the gas the idle goes all the way down to 1k rpm. If I let her sit for a minute (running) and then give it gas again it runs great.

I don't know if it is related but i have noticed that once in awhile the clutch belt will squeal pretty good when after I've come to a stop.

Any tips would be appreciated...thanks.

We have one and ours was alway notorious at fouling plugs. However, it sounds like an air screw adjustment but I will have to leave this to the professionals to answer. Good Luck. :div20:

If you have belt squiel you have clutch problems! remove the secondary clutch and rebuild or replace with a newer one that is adjustable ! I would replace it my self , I dont think you had the belt free play adjustments like the 98 and new stuff does? if you do elect to rebuild replace the helix buttons and clean and relube all the parts . this should cure the belt noise then go to the motor if you have more issue. I do aggree with fresh spark plugs too!

Check fuel filter and line all the way from the tank to the carbs to make sure it's not pinched or obstructed in any way.

I just got my 440 XCR SP 2 days ago and when it encountered this problem I was just about to bring it in to have the carbs cleaned and adjusted or was think it was even worse! But I let it sit a few hrs to where it was dark and cooler, got back on and away I went! Alot of it is even though they're liquid cooled, they're not unstoppable, especially in this extremly warm winter we've been having. Its all in the cooling, need to drive fast to keep this sled cooled!

The 96 XCRSP came from the factory set-up poorly. I rode one from 95-99, it was my personal sled. I would first check the needle valves, to be sure they are good, and the float levels. Needle should be in #3 clip. The air screws should be set to stock specs, I forget exactly, but 1- 1/2 turns. Set the idle to 22-2500 rpm hot engine. You should also run RN2C plugs, for some reason, they do not like the NGK BR9ES. Stock mains were 260, way too rich. 230 will be safe to any temp you can handle, with good fuel, which if the head shims were not added, you need 91 octane, and the stock airbox. They also need heavier weights, 10A work well, but hot seat Z hypershift are the best bar none. 8000 rpm at top is what you want, no more. As with any 440, the clutch alignment must be right on, belt deflection set to 1 1/4", and the primary clutch belt clearance no more than .020". I used to set mine at .010".

I wish I wouldn't have said what I said in my last post! I had these bogging issues after the clutch engages after its been sitting for a minute or so after being warm and figured a solution out! Air screws were set to 1 & 1/2 turns and factory specs are to have them set at 1 turn, changed to that and WOW! But now my next projects are putting on a new seat cover, figuring out why I get filings in my chaincase even with these used chain & gears, and figuring out why I get oil dripping out of my left exhaust header.