I have already had the bearing update done on my 03 F7 but I'm looking for a bit of extra insurance as far as chaincase leakage goes. I have heard that some Cat techs. do this proceedure on all models of Arctic Cats when assembling chaincase gears.... My questions are:

1) I would like to know what product can be used on the splines of the shafts inside the chaincase to help reduce/eliminate oil leakage? Will Permatex Ultra Black RTV work for this?

2) Can you give me an idea as to how much is needed to use and aproximatley where on the shaft it should be applied before gear assembly? Example, front of shaft(s)(very beggining of splines where gear(s) just start to slide on), middle, or back(closest to the chaincase housing)?? Thanks a bunch!
-John

Black permatex is fine. 3/16" bead where the splines taper off to nothing on the shaft (back). Also 1/8" bead on outside or bearing where it sits in/against dropcase. :div20:

Nice sled by the way

F7tool,

:div20:

Thanks for the reply. When you do this proceedure, do you do both the upper and the lower shafts or just the upper? Thanks again.
-John

The bottom is most important, remember this technique is designed primarily to keep water OUT but doing drivesshaft(lower) and jackshaft(upper)is worth it while everything is apart. Tip: Clean the areas that you are going to seal w/ some brake clean, You'll get a lasting seal.

Thanks again.
-John

F7tool,
I wan't to make sure I have the procedure correct since I will be doing 3 machines over the summer and I don't wan't to have to do them a second time.....
After chaincase is drained, cover is removed and the gears and flange plates/bearings are removed and all relevant parts are cleaned with brake cleaner I should...

1) Run an 1/8" bead of silicone sealer on the inside edge of the outer races of the beaings where they contact the inside edge of the chaincase & install them into the chaincase housing.
2) Install O-ring(s) around bearing(s) & then install the flange plates.
3) Run a 3/16" bead of silicone sealant around the shafts at the end of the splines.
4) Install the gears & chain.

Does this sound like the correct sequence? I am hoping to be able to do this without removing either of the drive or driven shafts. Do you think this will be possible..??


Thanks,
-John

John, it's very hard to do without loosening the chaincase and driveshaft. I couldn't rattle my bearings loose. I had to loosen my driveshaft and chaincase. I did not have to loosen the jackshaft to get the top bearing out.

cmscat50,
Thanks for the reply. So you are saying that I will just need to have the track loose and will probably have to physically loosen the back portion of the chaincase housing from the frame to remove the bottom bearing but shouldn't have to completely remove the housing from the sled... correct??

Thanks,
-John

100% correct yes. I had to take off my voltage regulator under the secondary clutch to loosen driveshaft also.

cmscat50,
Thanks for the info. I'll be doing 2 ZR chassis sleds in addition to my F7 and I'm guessing those will be a bit easier since I won't have to deal with the voltage regulator issue on the ZR's.

One last question on this if I may..... When applying the sealant to the outer diameter/race area of the bearing should a person apply the sealant to the inside of the chaincase housing or to the outer race of the bearing before re-assembly? I'm guessing if I apply it to the outside of the bearing race most of it may come off while trying to re-install it around the shaft and back into the chaincase housing..... thoughts?

Thanks,
-John

I'd put the sealant on both spots...outer race and chaincase.

Don't get your hopes up on the ZR's either....those driveshafts are just as bad to get off. Just hope you are lucky and have it easy.

Thanks again for the info. I certainly don't often feel like a lucky person so I'm sure I will have a heck of a time. Guess I will wait until spring/summer to do this!!

-John

I have not done this procedure but I would think you might want to apply your sealant to the bearing race instead of the case. That way any excess sealant will be pushed out and you can clean it off. If you put the sealant in the case housing when you push in the bearinging the excess sealant will bepushed off the back side where you can't clean it up and possibly will contaminate the bearing. I realise these bearings are probably sealed but it might be something to consider.

Good point blue!

-John