well i did it good. backed my 2004 pro x 700 off trailer a bit to clear the trailer cap support to change jets. placed the trusty tool into team clutch and cranked away seperating sheaves. as you are aware and possibly i should have remembered(this forum) this cracked the inner moveable sheve of the team clutch! i wanted to look at the owners manual for this sled after taking the team unit to dealer and i misplaced manual(moved this year). i did find the 2005 Poo SS(team) manual and it is generic for all edge sleds that year. no where it says not to do what i did. i did not think to look but i dont believe there is a warning on the belt cover. dealer agrees there should be a warning somewhere? apparenly dealer has seen this happen before. has anyone else you know of done this ?

dissassembly of clutch shows the washer that the tool strikes is bent. right next to bushing i cracked out a .125 inch piece of aluminum. i took dremel and opened up the hole to .250. small spider crack out of hole on one side only on surface only about .250 long. other side of sheve is clean. poo does not sell just the inner sheve. neither does team. i will run clutch as is and hope for the best.

comments ?

So using the privided tool breaks the clutch? I just got a prox2 with a team secondary, hearing this makes me nervous.

If you use the provided TOOL to open the secondary when it is in the REVERSE POSITION you WILL DAMAGE THE CLUTCH!!

The only reason I know this is - I contacted Polaris for a printout of all the work/warranty claims on the Pro X I just bought.

On the bottom of the page is a list of "Service Team Tips"

S-04-01-05 is Titled: "Models with Team Driven Clutch: Clutch Must Be in Forward Position to Use Belt Removal Tool. Dated 2/3/04.

Also - if you have high speed - you can download the Owner's Manual from Polaris' Website - that is what I did. It is big - like 11MB!!

Yeah, I just tried to post the manual for Ronny, but it wouldn't stick.

Also, I see no mention anywhere in the manual about this problem.

how do I be certain the clutch is in the "forward" postion? Ronny's was in the "reverse" position because he'd just backed it off the trailer?

yes mine was locked reverse. when you "start" engine it automatically disengages reverse. you can only remove belt when helix in forward. i wonder if skidoo nmanual has a large red warning or a decal on belt cover.

OK so the shop manual has a "blurb" about it but does not warn of damage and the "owners manual" says nothing. seems Polaris does not see the forest cause of the trees some times. had my dealer warned me i might have forgotten anyway. i did remove belt about 20 times prior with never a thought. i thought just stiff due to being cold. apparently not.

Ronny,

First, you should know that starting the engine DOES NOT automatically disengage reverse. The engine will be running in forward mode, but the secondary helix can still be locked in reverse. It will go into forward mode, once you move the sled forward via the engine.

Second, let me explain a little better what is going on:

The Electric Reverse (ER) style helix on a Team Secondary has notches at the bottom of the helix track, to lock it in 'low gear' when in reverse. Otherwise the clutch would upshift to high gear and you would not be able to move.

When the rollers are in these notches, you also cannot open the clutch either manually or with the 1/4 x 20 belt removal tool/L bolt. It is a good idea to go a little ways forward before using the belt removal tool. If you cannot move the machine forward, or at least pickup the track and spin it forward with the engine, you will need to manually turn the movable (inside) sheave on the secondary in the normal forward rotation, to make sure it is out of the notch.

When you turn in the removal tool, and it starts meeting resistance, you should be able to see/feel the sheaves begin to spread. If you don't, back off the tool and turn that movable sheave in the forward directon, to get the rollers out of the notch. Usually the tool will strip the threads out of the clutch, but sometimes it will damage/warp the clutch.

now that i think of it it would still be locked in that notch after simply starting it as the secondary has not yet moved. we needed to twist it at dealer to unlock it from that notch.