charlo
Nov 15 2006, 10:01 AM
Just studded my 900 this summer ( with a template) and when I run my machine on a stand it sounds like my studs are rubbing\hitting my tunnel. So I take my suspension out and there are no marks on the tunnel so the studs can't be rubbing put everything back togeather tighten my track and run her again...same noise. :banghead: Is it possible that the noise is comming from the inside of my track...(the back of my studs hitting the suspension?) This noise only happen on the stand and not when I ride the machine around the yard. I first thought my studs were long .5" above the lug (1") but this sled should take longer studs then that. What do you guys think? Thanks as always. :beerchug:
stronger800
Nov 15 2006, 10:04 PM
Check all the idler wheels and their bearings. the stud heads ride on them and if they are loose you will hear them bounce off the stud heads a bit. also if you removed the suspension check to see the rear arm is in the correct orientation, this is more likely to be a problem if you have the coupler blocks out.
you can go More than half an inch over the lug on that sled (with any track
charlo
Nov 16 2006, 06:22 AM
QUOTE(stronger800 @ Nov 16 2006, 12:04 AM)

Check all the idler wheels and their bearings. the stud heads ride on them and if they are loose you will hear them bounce off the stud heads a bit. also if you removed the suspension check to see the rear arm is in the correct orientation, this is more likely to be a problem if you have the coupler blocks out.
you can go More than half an inch over the lug on that sled (with any track
All my bearings are good (turn freely with no rough feel) and the rear arm should be good as I didn't take the suspension apart only removed it, checked the hyfax/bearings greased it and put it back in. Could any one post a pic of their rear skid so I can make sure just in case. By coupler blocks out do you mean removed? Because they are still in the skid. I'm hoping it is just my stud bottoms hitting the idler wheels because there is no weight on the track...I just don't want to run into trouble 100 miles from home. It is the first machine I have ever run with studs so maybe I'm just not used to the noise although my non studded machines were never this loud when I ran them on a stand.
liftedandgifted
Nov 16 2006, 07:26 AM
I think what stronger800 meant was to see if the studs are drawn down level. If they stick up a bit it will make a noise when the hit the idler wheels. Also some on here with the "quiet tracks" will grind the humps smooth so the studs don't stick up in those spots.
charlo
Nov 16 2006, 07:36 AM
QUOTE(liftedandgifted @ Nov 16 2006, 09:26 AM)

I think what stronger800 meant was to see if the studs are drawn down level. If they stick up a bit it will make a noise when the hit the idler wheels. Also some on here with the "quiet tracks" will grind the humps smooth so the studs don't stick up in those spots.
That is my problem... :banana: Should I grind the bumps down or not worry about them. You guys don't know how much this has been bothering me. Thanks!!!! :beerchug: :beerchug: :beerchug: :beerchug:
BeamerCat
Nov 16 2006, 06:18 PM
Draw the heads down tight. If you have the newer track where its thicker along the idler wheels they are less likely to pull through there.
On my 2004, I believe every 3'rd or 4'th line of the track doesn't have the 'cut-out" on each side. If you have stud here its going directly over the botton slide and could make noise on the rotation.
:beerchug:
READY FOR SOME RIDIN' FELLAS.!
charlo
Nov 17 2006, 07:31 AM
QUOTE(BeamerCat @ Nov 16 2006, 08:18 PM)

Draw the heads down tight. If you have the newer track where its thicker along the idler wheels they are less likely to pull through there.
On my 2004, I believe every 3'rd or 4'th line of the track doesn't have the 'cut-out" on each side. If you have stud here its going directly over the botton slide and could make noise on the rotation.
:beerchug:
READY FOR SOME RIDIN' FELLAS.!
So should I grind them down or leave them...my dealer says I should grind them down, he thinks I will get more vibration therefore more wear.
zr sled head
Nov 17 2006, 10:06 AM
QUOTE(charlo @ Nov 17 2006, 08:31 AM)

So should I grind them down or leave them...my dealer says I should grind them down, he thinks I will get more vibration therefore more wear.
Leavin em as is worked fine in my Pop's sled last year.
pol-cat
Nov 17 2006, 12:44 PM
QUOTE(charlo @ Nov 17 2006, 08:31 AM)

So should I grind them down or leave them...my dealer says I should grind them down, he thinks I will get more vibration therefore more wear.
i noticed the same noise after i studded mine and ran it off the ground,i thought maybe the track was too tight so i loosend a bit but still the same noise..i checked all the studs to make sure they were in enough and they were that was 2000 mi ago and no problems at all..i never figured out why it did that when the track was off the ground but no problems while riding...
stronger800
Nov 17 2006, 10:14 PM
Chalo, Yes the suds need to be tight, I draw the heads in flush, maybe actually down in a bit past flush. (you need aluminum backers to go this tight, not sure what you used) If you take the coupling blocks out to ride and then later remove the skid it is possible for the rear arm to collapse and the short link at the front of it (near the shock) can rotate 180 degrees and end up upside down when you put the skid back in. Sled still sits fine, works fine, but it will rubb on the track and destroy it quick. If your blocks are still attached to the rails you will not have this problem. Riding with them out is fine to, just have to watch the skid when in it goes in and out. I forgot about those tracks with the humps, I only had one and took it off to swap in a taller one without the humps so I never studded one of these. Looks like these guys think your good to go, I aggree.
charlo
Nov 18 2006, 07:05 AM
Thanks Guys :beerchug: I'm good to go losened the track a little and double checked everything and all is good. :div20:
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