I used the front holes for the inside and moved back the out side wheels one hole. and grind the nut side of the shock bottom.It worked really well.All i have done to mine is a slp airbox mod /one tooth smaller on top gear /and a almond primary spring.

Did you have to drill 2 new holes for the outside idler bracket?or did you use the existing holes and gring the bracket for the idler wheel?I have 2 set of holes they look to close to use both.Thanks

I had to drill new holes .it worked well i put 885 miles on the sled with no problems. you ca call me at 607-760-1795.i also put idler wheels on the rear of the skid for grass drags for less drag on the slides.an have won with the sled :banana:

Can you take pics?

Went to the dealer today and talk to them more on this and what they told me makes sense.1st he said just to put the second row of idlers on inside and don't worry about the putting another set on.He told me the real cause is the remote res on the rear shock is what is hitting and the clamp is marking the track along with the res.which makes sense because when I firt bought the dealer to me to ride it soft for 200mi or so to loosen things up and break them in.I after each ride I would notice the remote res shoved up into the rear arm and the dial was jammed I would push it down after each ride.then once I adjust the suspension up stiff it never happened again.He said he has found rubber in the clamp on some sleds.so I canceled my order and just going to leave it for now knowing what the problem was.maybe I might move them not sure yet depends on how bored I get.. LOL

here is a pic.

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ill try again

Here is a picture of my sled with the wheels on the inside.

All sleds with W/E shock package will have this problem if you are a hard rider. The shock goes down and takes a chunck out of track this happen because not enough clearance between track and shocks when suspension is colapsed. On groomed trails only you should have no problems but when you ride on rough trails the underside of track takes shape of what you ride over and humps up track between rails and that is where the problem happens.

I sent pictures to Polaris about this problem in 2005 got no answer, but did get new track and both shocks from my dealer under warrinity.

I also included a picture of my rear shock after the first year of riding without wheels inside of rails. This picture is upside down, but you can see how bad it was hitting as it bent the tank and there is a piece of the track stuck in clamp.

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Wow, you would really need to keep the track alignment spot-on with the inside wheels running in between the drive lugs of the track like that, huh?

No difference then on the outside as both ride on inside of the idler wheels when mounted on outside, if track is off it still would rub on one side or the other.

They have been running wheels in this location for years on Polaris sleds, this is the first year they did not. :frech32:

Alright, I deserve that one I guess...... :banghead:

Is there enough room to flip the shock so the res is on top ?anyone try that?I think I'm going to do what xc8 did just put the outside on the inside.but my shock res looks like that to.if onlt you could put a longer line on it and strap it to the rail like the m-10 does.

you can not flip the shock over it will hit the top of the track .i tried that. and the wheels on the inside do not rub .