Full Version: Installing wieghts&spring
I am going to install diff weights & a spring.In doing this what are the steps?I know I have to get the right puller and put marks on the cover(for balance reasons)before I take it off,so it is lined up when done. What else will I need to do this?Do I have to remove the spider?And get that tool?What should I torq it to when putting it back on?Thanks mike
I change the weights with the primary still on the sled and save having to get a puller. Simply get a clamp to hold the clutch closed and then you can easily replace the weights...
The secondary comes off easily and can be moved to the shop bench to put a new helix or spring on...
The secondary comes off easily and can be moved to the shop bench to put a new helix or spring on...
primary you might be able to take the cover off with it in the sled, just depends on the chassis. Can always go to your dealer and have them pop it off for $10. Anyways take the cover off...should really have something to keep it compressed while you take the bolts out and then slowly release the pressure.
For the secondary you'll need a press to remove the c-clip. Theres fancy ones you can buy but they're not the only way to do it.
For the secondary you'll need a press to remove the c-clip. Theres fancy ones you can buy but they're not the only way to do it.
you Can pull the cover and change weights,and spring in the sled, a little harder,thats all, the the cover has a X on it ,line the x with the X on the spyder,no need to pull syder unless shimming for belt cleareance
the secondary, you can change the helix with a torq tip, changing the spring NEEDS the compressor
the secondary, you can change the helix with a torq tip, changing the spring NEEDS the compressor
yes you need a compressor....but screw paying $85 for one, I made my own. Its an exceptionally haggard operation trying to get that changed without some decent way of compressing it.
Yes, the spring compressor is easy to make. Just go to a good hardware store or an industrial type supply shop and get about 8" of 3/4-10 threaded rod, a 3/4-10 nut and a 3/4 roller thrust bearing. Simply screw the rod in, and snug the nut to the bearing. Then you can remove the 6 bolts and back the nut off until the spring is no longer compressed.
Heres the one I made along with along with some other clutching tools.... Click to view attachment
BTW, the roller thrust bearing will not hold the cover all the way down (all but about 3/16"-1/4") with out some kind of spacer between it and the cover. I'm thinking a piece of tubuing should work well.
Heres the one I made along with along with some other clutching tools.... Click to view attachment
BTW, the roller thrust bearing will not hold the cover all the way down (all but about 3/16"-1/4") with out some kind of spacer between it and the cover. I'm thinking a piece of tubuing should work well.
It's so much easier to remove the clutch from the engine. With the clutch removed you can better inspect for wear and proper cleaning.
The clutch should be dissassembled cleaned and inspected every 1,000 to 1,200 miles. It hurts nothing to remove the clutch if done properly.
I never could understand the apprehension for removing the clutch.
I have had the clutch on and off sleds dozens of times and have never had any issues. The ones that are never removed are the most neglected.
Adding a "performance" clutch kit to a clutch that is in need of service is like putting perfume on a pig.
The clutch should be dissassembled cleaned and inspected every 1,000 to 1,200 miles. It hurts nothing to remove the clutch if done properly.
I never could understand the apprehension for removing the clutch.
I have had the clutch on and off sleds dozens of times and have never had any issues. The ones that are never removed are the most neglected.
Adding a "performance" clutch kit to a clutch that is in need of service is like putting perfume on a pig.
QUOTE(Alleycat35 @ Oct 30 2006, 06:33 PM) 
It's so much easier to remove the clutch from the engine. With the clutch removed you can better inspect for wear and proper cleaning.
The clutch should be dissassembled cleaned and inspected every 1,000 to 1,200 miles. It hurts nothing to remove the clutch if done properly.
I never could understand the apprehension for removing the clutch.
I have had the clutch on and off sleds dozens of times and have never had any issues. The ones that are never removed are the most neglected.
Adding a "performance" clutch kit to a clutch that is in need of service is like putting perfume on a pig.
The clutch should be dissassembled cleaned and inspected every 1,000 to 1,200 miles. It hurts nothing to remove the clutch if done properly.
I never could understand the apprehension for removing the clutch.
I have had the clutch on and off sleds dozens of times and have never had any issues. The ones that are never removed are the most neglected.
Adding a "performance" clutch kit to a clutch that is in need of service is like putting perfume on a pig.
I think youre on the money on this :div20: , a clutch that has never been removed from the engine is most likely totally worn out if used for some time, i always remove my clutches atleast twice each season, it is so much easier to find worn parts and clean and inspect it, the clutch is the sleds heart, a bad clutch and all the power in the world is wasted. i have found just plain soap and hot water will clean a clutch right up if done on regular basis, if soap and water isnt availeble , compressed air or alcohol on a rag and wipe the vital part clean... :beerchug:
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