Help - Search - Members - Calendar
Full Version: Installing driven clutch spring
HCS Snowmobile Forums > Snowmobile Forums > Arctic Cat General Discussion
Stitch
Hey Everybody,

First time to pull the clutches - drive & driven need to clean them up and install clutch kit. I have all the tools; puller, compressor etc. Everything came off fine.

Only question I have is on driven spring install and the roller cover. I guess you insert the spring end in the hole you want (center) and TWIST IT until you can align the cover bolts ????
bgtrk19472
Did you mark your clutch? so that when you put it back together it lines back up with your marks? If not if you look in your manual it shows how to. But to answer your question you will need to twist the spring and put some preload on it, I believe its about 2/3rd's or somethind like that. i_need_snow.gif
ucop27
QUOTE(Stitch @ Dec 8 2003, 09:48 AM)
I guess you insert the spring end in the hole you want (center) and TWIST IT until you can align the cover bolts ????

Thats what i did with my 96 ZRT, and like bgtrk19472 said, hopefully you made a mark on the clutches prior to taking them off and apart.
BIG CAT
If you did not mark the clutches, they are marked from the factory.

The secondary and primary clutches have alignment marks on them. The primary cover has dot on it. Then if you look at the spider that also has a dot. Just line the dots up. The dot is raised and is on the out side of the primary cover. The dot on the spider is also raised and is on the spider arm.

The secondary clutch sheeves have lines on them for the alignment. This line is also raised and is locaed on the back side of the sheeves (the non machined part).

Put the secondary sring in the middle hole, or where it was stock, unless the clutch kit tells you other wise. Like the others said, you have to put a preload on the spring when you put it back together. After you put the spring in the cover and clutch, twist the spring and cover (so you are winding the spring tight) until you can line the studs and holes of the cover. Turn the cover, I believe clock wise until the holes in the cover meet studs again. Like the others said It is usally 2/3 of a turn or so. Once you get to this point, I think you will see what I mean.

Your going to need somthing to keep the shaft from hitting the ground. A roll of duct tape works the best. If you dont have a roll of duct tape, two peices of 2x4 on each side of the shaft works.

HOPE THIS HELPS.
Stitch
I marked the inside and outside sheaves on the driven- but not the roller cover.

How do you twist it 2/3 ?? I haven't tried it but that spring seemed pretty hefty. Is there some trick to it ???
ucop27
QUOTE(BIG CAT @ Dec 8 2003, 10:38 AM)
If you did not mark the clutches, they are marked from the factory.

The secondary and primary clutches have alignment marks on them. The primary cover has dot on it. Then if you look at the spider that also has a dot. Just line the dots up. The dot is raised and is on the out side of the primary cover. The dot on the spider is also raised and is on the spider arm.

The secondary clutch sheeves have lines on them for the alignment. This line is also raised and is locaed on the back side of the sheeves (the non machined part).

I learn something new everyday, i did not know that they had factory mark on them. :div20:
BIG CAT
Dont think the cover matters; I have never marked the roller cover.

I guess the best way to explain how to do it is like this. Turn the cover until there is tension on the spring. When you get that tension, push the cover down on the studs. Usally at that point you will be half way between the studs, so you will have to turn it ( tightening the spring) until tyhe holes line up with the studs. It will probably take two people to do this, one to hold the cover and one to start the nuts. If you have a secondary spring compressor, it will be easy for you. Dont get me wrong, I have done several with out a compressor. I just had to have a person helping me.

Hope this makes more sense.
ucop27
For what its worth, i installed mine with the driven clutch still on the shaft, just put the brake on and away you go. m2c.gif
yo momma
Piece of cake to do with two. My girl screwed the bolts on while I held it under pressure. Try this not necessary but supposedly helps.............. don't completely tighten the helix until you have it all together...........then after it's all together crank down the three allen heads on the helix.

Duct tape works great to set the secondary on during the process.
Stitch
:div20: OK I got it. I have a compression tool so it should go pretty easy.

Could ask the wife to help - BUT - we had the annual Christmas tree fight on Sunday. Its leaning , no it looks fine from here, no, it's leaning, push it towards the wall, no, the other friggin wall.....

I swear every year I'm gonna screw an eye bolt into the ceiling and just hang the sucker from that. :banghead:

Thanks to all...
94ZR580
Does a compression tool work on the secondary? I thought it was only for the primary. dunno.gif On another forum that appears to not be permitted to be mentioned on this forum, Dan form the Outdoor Shop wrote an article under the Magazine forum on how to installl a clutch kit. That might be helpful.
ZRJoe
There was a post plast year on here on about using 1/2" ready rod for compressing the driven and drive clutch. I use a 18" long piece myself with large flat washers to compress and release both.

Works like a charm!!
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.
Invision Power Board © 2001-2008 Invision Power Services, Inc.