I have a proxr800 stock,and would like some knowledgable info on what to do.I am thinking about a hypershift clutch kit from hot seat and different gearing and maybe dropping the mains one size.I have had alot of sleds in the past but would like this one to have the accelaration it should up to 90mph.It seems kind of slow.I raced a 2003 xc500 stock and they were even.My sled has 1800 miles and seems to run great.My weight is around 220,height 6'.I would like to keep the motor stock and spend less than 500.$.Probably a pipe dream right!! :div20:

well, they are slow out of the box :banghead: , i would start by checking that everything is good , clutches, engine mounts, align the clutches so you have the right cc measure and ofset, then i would, pull the carbs and check that the throttle sliders go all the way up at wot, after this i would check the main jets and see whats in there and replace if nesseary with 430 mains, after this i would gut the airbox (remove shelf inside box) you could also use the slp intake horn with this mod,

clutching wise i would buy a almond blue primary spring and 66-72g 10-series oem weights depending on what elevation you ride at (lighter weights in higher elevation) , in the secondary team clutch a counter wounded black stock spring and use the 66 stock angle, by only doing this you should increase your performance by the double, atleast it will feel like it... :beerchug:

I live in northern wis and primarily ride trails and lakes.I would like more pull up to 90,for what I here about these sleds, they dont go over 90(radar)very easy.Is this the best setup for this?Also if I gut the airbox dont I have to change the pilots also?Are you positive that 430 mains are safe?I just want to be sure before I do all of this.THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE REPLY,KEEP THEM COMING PLEASE!!!It seems sad that a 500 stock stays with this thing!What about gearing? :beerchug:

i have heard 23-42 gearing, but it depends what you are after, if you gear down you will have to go down on the weights (less weight), i will be going with 24-41 gearing now this season, will see what happends i might go lower.. regarding the main jets/gutting airbox, well up in about 1000m elevation i have gone with 410 mains with my gutted box, 430 is safe for sea level with the gutted box, because when you gut it it will richen up, (yes you heard me) not like when gutting other airboxes, so 450 is stock on these sleds, they come pig rich from the box, thats why a 500 will beat ya, but dont go down more then 440 mains without gutting the airbox, with the clutch guide i gave you it will improve your acceleration wery much, but you could try a almond/gold primary spring for more topend/more shiftout, im using 68-70 g weights right now, and the jetting controls pretty much how heavy weights you can pull, these sleds should pull about 7700-7900 rpm on the shift, but pry the box apart and remove the shelf, jet it down and check your plugs, clutch it and you will never have any probs with a little 500 . :div20:

my advise to you is twin race pipes with 24top gear and 42 bottome with about 250 studs, gut the box.

i have 24/42 gearign and have topped it at about 85 on my gps, it has tons of mid-range....but i have a long track 136"x2". and a single pipe...maybe a few other things :div20: with a short track you should have more top end than me.

Gear it up and stay away from twin pipes as the DNR will have your nuts. Jetting from factory is always fat (to rich). The gearing these folks are talking about is lower than we run in watercross. Check a gearing chart and gear for 100 to 110. You have plenty of torque just need more go. Talk to Glenn at EPI and explain what you are after. Clutch kits can be good and bad... but Glenn is as honest as the day is long and for what you want to spend you do not have much room for trail and error. The 500 should not touch this sled even if the 500 is full mod.

:banana: Try helix 54-42-40 secondary orange epi primary yellow epi 72 grams belly bustters gutted air box 430 jet 420 are best but watch out 430 all day long Det acts like a over protective mother. Feeling likey disconect. I just put in a new gear 24/40 new can J&T will take it to a dyno this year last year . I will let you guys know Last year the performance shop that I used had a few isuses. Should happen in a few weeks as long as I dont have to work out of town>

I know this sounds dumb,but am I at sea level in northern wis,Im pretty sure.So I should take out the shelf,430 mains, same pilots,no needle ajustment.Now I would like to pull hard and get good top end also.With clutch changes and gearing(if I have to).What is the best combination for clutch and gearing to accomplish this,I am getting alot of diff ideas.Thanks guys!!Great replys. :beerchug: Also,what is the elevation where I am at?

These sleds are ditch bangers.................Why do you all gear these sleds so low? So, stock box, and 450's are pig rich,..but a gutted box and 430's are good? LMFAO! That is exactly the same thing! You guys are all over geared and still pig rich if you are ridding in Wis. and Mich. I am not critizinging, just stating a fact. This guy is looking for some performance, and is being mis lead, IMO. If you need 72 gram weights, then you are geared to the MOON, and are using half of your clutches at best.
You can safely run 420's with every thing stock down to 0 degs. all day long at these altitudes. If your DET senser is going off in these conditions, then you have a bad senser. I have run 400's in those conditions,.. all day.Now, gut the box, and you have just richened your engine by 2 sizes. 22/43 is the gear of choice.
70-46-.46 / Black/Red in the rear. 66 grams up front, with those gears and your wieght. Let me know if you want to hear about the pos. head that is on the 800....- John

John,so I should gut the box?Or should I leave the shelf in it and drop my mains down to 430's?If I have 450's in it now?Also you say that that is the best clutch and gearing for my weight?Just want to make sure,thanks john!

You are at approx. 1000 ft. Obviously it varies.. if you know where Frederic is east of town 5 miles It's about 1300 ft. highest point in Polk Co. Even Lake Superior is not sea level.

If the carbs are vented BELOW the shelf, which I believe they are(I'm not familiar with the Pro XRs), then toad is right. You will actually richen the sled by removing the airbox shelf. However, that doesn't mean they are the same thing. You will still flow more air so you will increase hp even with higher A/F ratio. But, if a sled is rich to start with then removing the shelf(more airflow) AND jetting down further(leaner A/F ratio) would give you even more power. Doing what toad is saying will give you some good FREE power! Well, almost free, jets are cheap!

But your gearing comments confuse me. First you ask "Why do you gear these sleds so low?" then you state that "you guys are all overgeared" I'm confused, gearing low to me = less top speed and gearing high = more top speed. And what really confuses me is it appears you are stating you need to ADD weight to the primary when you gear up(more top speed)???

Not criticizing just trying to understand your post?

yepp this confuses me to , there are many ways to go with gearing and weights, but what is most important is what you want out of your tuning, topspeed acceleration, fuel milage, cruise rpm etc.. not all want low gear and just acceleration, some could care less if the sled didnt go over 80mph, just that it rip your hands when pulling the trigger, my setup is one of all mighty pockets setups, it really work awsome, i have altered some as i have tested diffrent setups, but i have gone back to almost the same as i know this works and wont dissepoint anyone (maybe a few f7:s), i have read that some can go as low as 400 mains, and i believe you guys that it work, but the 430 mains and gutted box is almost bulletproof, and the 800 mill responds wery well to heavy weights and low engagement rpms, the holeshot is just soo much better with like 70g weights then the stock 64:s , but regarding the gearing, i would also see what kind of track i was using combined with the gearing so the track dosent just blow snow, i would just put in some heavy weights and keep the gearing to start with, leave the twin pipes alone if you just want to ride and not tune all winter, many twin pipes need diffrent heads and perhaps racefuel, a set of egt:s and a lot of money and time to get the sled to perform, many times a well tuned stocker can outperform a half dialed in race sled, big hp dynoed engines does not always win races on snow, fine tuned sled do, and to get a race sled dialed in perfect is a lot of hours and testing, a stocker is easier to tune and clutching tips on them are all over this page... just my 2c

toad

, low gearing 22-43{less top speed},and lighter weights because of the steep finish helix

cody

use high gearing,24-40 ,more top end,and a shallow finish helix, so he can get get away with heavier weights


imo: to tottally differentset ups

toad is set for fast trail

cody

top end

:beer: Always great info from you guys keep it coming. My brothers sled same as mine dynoed at 154.5 with gutted box stock jest and a can. his clutch set up is 70-46-48 orang epi secondary yellow epi primary. 70 grams geared 24/40. I get him out of the hole and take him all the way so hp means nothing if your not in tune.

yeah, to bad we all couldnt get together and drink bear and discuss our clutch/gear setup, but then again after a few brewskis we maybe would have gone oftopic :burp: , my cousin has his xr800 dynoed at 179bhp/8300rpm, and i get him out of the hole and on topend :beer: , so Code i think you are on the money, i wanna try your clutch setup, sounds like a good one :div20: fun thread this one..

Hey guys,My track is 1.375 with no studs and I prefure not to.I have ben told to put 22-40 gears(do I have to get a diff chain ?)Tach calibrated,find out what top rpm is,gut the box and put 430's in safe or 420's in chancin it.It somtimes gets to be -15 in northern wisc or more so I want to be safe.So I need to know what kind of clutching I need now.I want it to pull hard and have some top end like 90 if it is possible.I do mostly trail and short lake bursts.I want to keep my team roller clutch for trail backshifts and it has the perc on it also.This is all I want to do with it.Clutching,jetting,air box mods(air horn?) and gearing.It has a stock pipe(ceramic coated from factory) and want to keep it that way because I cannot afford a diff one.Thanks alot guys and please keep helping,I am learning a ton from you guys. :beerchug:

NVR8NF,... Sorry if that confusses you, you have it backwards. What I stated is true. 25/40 = 1.6 ratio = "LOW", 22/43 = 1.95 ratio = HIGH. And 1.6, "Low" is WAY overgeared for this sled. Also, you run lighter wieghts with a higher gear because your mechanical resistanced is so much less, that you will shift too quickly in the primary, making the sled feel slugish and actually much slower than before. That is why so many guys will make a big gear change and say it did not work,....well, your clutching has to change with it.
As far as the air box issue, removing the shelf will richen your sled just about exactly 2 jet sizes. So, again, my statement was correct, "450's stock box, and 430's gutted box" are the same thing. This is all because of the vent lines. When you talk about more air flow,..you forgot that you are pulling MORE fuel now too. So, your fuel air mixture is the same. 430's with a gutted box is just as filthy pig rich as the sled is stock. You guys need to learn how to read your plugs so you can understand this better. If your box is gutted and you are 2000ft. or less, 400's are plenty safe. -John

XC Special,
You are a bit confused here,.........your high and low gearing is backwards, and the reason that you have to run the big wieght on the low gearing, is because the the incredible resistance,..It's like doing a holeshot with your car in 4th gear! You need that heavy weight to keep a grip on the belt, or it would slip. Now when you gear higher"less top end", you will have less resistance, so you will use lighter wieghts, you will now be using more of your clutch, less stress on the belts, everything becomes more efficient and "COOLER". IN turn you will not loose any top end speed, "to a point",because now you are using all of your clutch. - John

Gearing down is using a numerically higher ratio, gearing up is using a numerically lower ratio. The taller gearing (theoretical higher top speed for a given rpm), puts more load on the engine, therefore SOMETIMES requiring lighter weights, and/or a shallower helix, or stiffer clutch springs, so as to not load the engine to the point of a drop in rpm. The opposite is true, as gearing lower (theoretical lower top speed for a given rpm), loads the engine less, requiring heavier weights, steeper helix, and often softer clutch springs to keep the engine loaded enough to prevent a gain in rpm, and to make use of the hp. Most often a gear change requires a change in weights, and secondary spring/setting, or helix change, to work ideal. But, not in all cases. When you talk about cars, when you say you are gearing down, you are using a higher ratio numerically, not the opposite.

I too agree with pockets... Low geared refers to numericaly higher gear ratio; ie. 2:1 is "lower" than 1.75:1.

agreed, lower = higher numerically

:banana: Wow Now all this info Might go 420 jetts I did this for a while and what a difference. but It made plugs looked more whiteish but the weather was warmer 1330 ft elavation. Might go 70 grams weights . Bring on the snow please. keep the info coming.!!!!!!

So are these sleds considered quick when set up correctly?If not, they sure look bad ass!!!! :cn:

well it depends on how you look at it, they are fast on the twisty trails and in the rough, on the lakes,- forget it, there are better faster sleds for that, i know my sled buddies think that these sleds wasnt al done from the factory, they need some yankee engineering from time to time if you know what i mean, they can be dogs and they can be awsome race sleds, its just how well diealed in they are and if suspension clutches and all other things are in good condition, :beerchug: