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makwa
This will be the first year with this type of motor. I normally have out boards.

I have a 350, I/O with a merc cruser.

How should I winterize this.
Any help will be great.
Thanks,
-Duane
jammin
Duane,

I have a 2005, 150 Mercury OB and I took it into a dealer last fall for winterizing, it cost me roughly 100.00 and I was okay with that. I know your set-up is different and requires more steps VS mine, but I found these sites useful as I was thinking about doing my own last year and changed my mind.

http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/37.htm

http://www.boatmotors.com/winterization/

Another good one :div20:

http://www.perfprotech.com/home/techtips/n...-9-05r1_web.htm
makwa
QUOTE(jamminzrt @ Sep 17 2006, 02:42 PM) *
Duane,

I have a 2005, 150 Mercury OB and I took it into a dealer last fall for winterizing, it cost me roughly 100.00 and I was okay with that. I know your set-up is different and requires more steps VS mine, but I found these sites useful as I was thinking about doing my own last year and changed my mind.

http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/37.htm

http://www.boatmotors.com/winterization/

Another good one :div20:

http://www.perfprotech.com/home/techtips/n...-9-05r1_web.htm


WOW, pretty good info there.
Thanks :div20:
jammin
Your welcome :div20:

FYI, some cost for shops to do it....

MANUFACTURERS RECOMMENDED WINTERIZATION SERVICE PACKAGE

Fall: Fog engine with a rust preventative solution thru-out engine and fuel system to protect internal engine parts. Circulate non-toxic antifreeze through engine cooling system. Change engine oil and filters using only quality products. Drain and refill lower unit lubricant, pressure and vacuum test lower unit if any indications of water exist, notify customer if present. Apply anticorrosive grease to outdrive fittings, shift and throttle linkages. Add fuel stabilizer to fuel tank(s) as required per gallon.

ALL PARTS & MATERIALS INCLUDED COMPLETE PACKAGE PRICE: $199.95

Another,


Inboard Powerboat Engines

* flush engine and fill with non-toxic antifreeze
* change engine oil, oil filter and fuel filter (Includes primary filters attached to engine. Additional filters changed at additional charge.)
* add gas or diesel fuel stabilizer/treatment
* change gear oil
* grease fittings
* check antifreeze on freshwater cooled engines (If antifreeze is not potent, it will be changed/added at additional charge.)
* check transmission oil. (If low, additional oil will be added at additional charge.)

V-8 $229.00

V-6 $219.00

4-C $199.00

Looks like 200-225.00 covers you. I know you can do it for less out of pocket money but I decided to let the dealer do it so when Spring rolled around the motor was good to go.....If not, it's on them, not me.

John
buchholr
add fuel stablizer, run and fog engine,drain engine,fill with nontoxic anti freeze,ecess will flow out outdrive.Change lower unit oil.
t.bear
all good adyice before you do any thing drain all the water out of the engine,by pulling the water plugs out of the block and exaust manifolds these will be brass or plastic plugs.and ask your dealer for the kit for a remote oil filter.to drain the oil is the easyest through the dip stick with a small pump. :div20: good luck
showags
If you have any doubt, pay to get it done. It may be $100 or so, but that includes insurance. You might save money, but if you miss one thing, there goes $3,000+ down the drain. I have seen a lot of "I knew what I was doing, and called a buddy" that ended up with a milk shake in the valve covers in the spring. If you are 100% certain of what you are doing, go ahead. If there is any doubt, pay to have it done, but make sure the insurance is covered in the cost.
ZR8Rider
Idid my 4.3 merc myself last year. I bought an owners manual and followed it to a t. No problems at all. In the manual it says to use a wire or coat hanger to clear out debris when draining the block. that is definitely a must. I then drained and removed hoses as if I was not going to add antifreeze, then put it back together and ran the antifreeze thrpough the engine. I had no problems and it worked perfectly. Good luck. ZR
johnny9mile
QUOTE(showags @ Oct 9 2006, 12:12 PM) *
If you have any doubt, pay to get it done. It may be $100 or so, but that includes insurance. You might save money, but if you miss one thing, there goes $3,000+ down the drain. I have seen a lot of "I knew what I was doing, and called a buddy" that ended up with a milk shake in the valve covers in the spring. If you are 100% certain of what you are doing, go ahead. If there is any doubt, pay to have it done, but make sure the insurance is covered in the cost.




The only smart post on here. Don't do it your self. 3K will cover the motor and no labor. Our marina charges $105.00 and it is cheap insurance. Believe me we repower many engings because something little is always overlooked. Save your self a short summer take it in!!
showags
We had a customer come in last fall and continued to insist that we just "show" him how to do it. We politely told him that we would do it for him for at our reduced price. When telling him the price, we got a "that much, huh??" So, he tried the best he could to look over our shoulders and watch as we did a few craft and went on his way. This spring came, he was all proud, brought his boat in for summerizing. Yep, you heard it, would not pay to get it winterized but was willing to pay to get it summerized. So any way, looking at the bag he had with the block and manifold plugs I noticed that he was one short. I mentioned it to him and he said no, i counted, there are four there which there are in every boat. At that moment, i thought, here we go. Here he pulled the plug on the aux oil cooler and left the one in the block, needless to say there was a milk shake in the valve covers. Upon telling him about the $3000+ motor swap, i got the same "that much, huh??" Pay the money, its cheap insurance.
Scooter Magavin
Mercruiser 454 MPI

1. Two brass plugs on block
2. Two plastic plugs on exhaust manifolds
3. Allow water to drain from block (stick small screw or something to break any sediment free to allow water to drain)
4. I have raw water pumps on the motor and oil coolers, must drain them. Disconnect hose at raw water pump and both drain.
5. Remove thermostat housing and thermostat
6. Replace plugs in block and exhaust manifold once all water is drained
7. Pour in about 3-4 gallons of the -60 pink pop (bio degradable stuff) into block through Tstat housing.
8. Replace Tstat housing
9. Drink beer and wait for spring

These are only instructions to prevent block from freezing. I change oil in the fall too.
05ACF600EFI
I allso have a 350

this is my 4 step method

1) Run it to temp, with stable in tank
2) og it
3)change lower unit oil
4)disconect all hoses attached to the cooling system (water) then let the water drain out
there will be 2 bolts at the bottom of the block they should be coper take them out to drain the water out of the block and there will be two twist things they should be blue on the sides take them out to drain water then plug all 4 things back in fill hoses with antifreeze and you will be good.
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