Has this info somewhere at one time but lost it...

Question 1. What is the stock clutching setup on a Fuse 600 (need to know spring rates, not just colors).

Question 2. What clutching upgrades are you guys seeing that works best for this motor?

Any of you change gearing? What is stock gearing? What did you change it too and how did it work out?

I was told to make sure that the clutch weights area balanced at 62g, which is what I need to do next. I just need to either buy a new set or have them done?

Primary: 10-62, black/green primary spring(120-340)

Driven: 64/42-36 Helix, LH red/black spring(140-240)

Gearing: 23/39 76 pitch

All I know is the EPI kit sucks. Won't pull the RPM's and never will in stock form with 10-64 weights. The sled needs to run at 8200.

On the team helix, what is the "64/42". I assume the 36 is the final angle. Sorry, knew to TEAM secondary's

the 64* is .360 long then final angle is 42*

I tried several clutching combos last year and like the stock setup the best, along with an almond/blue primary spring. Also, make sure the stock weights are no more than 62.0 gm.

Racerdave is right on target. The 36 is the measurement of transition between 64 & 42

i cut the head on my 600 and did'nt do anything to the clutching yet but when i checked the weights they were all 63.8 right on the money ,if i get a long run i can pull 8400 ,i figure i could add some more weight but that would slow down my backshifting even more and i really feel like the sled needs to backshift quicker ,i dont have much experience with figuring out what helix to use ,i was really hoping that somone else was having similiar issues that could point me in the right direction.

To make it revvier, put a stiffer primary spring in. An erlandson maroon.

Ah shit, didn't I offer to sell you my spare set?? I think I forgot about them, sorry...... :banghead:

If so, let me know and I will grind, scale and get them out to you post-haste. :div20:

He's overreving by 150-200 rpm. Drop the primary spring down a little.

.36 is the height of the first angle, not the length. If you have sketch a right triangle it's the length of the side opposite of the hypotenuse.

Also, on a Team cam the first angle that is used to describe the cam is deceiving. A 64 degree first angle is more like a 53. The second angle is exactly what they call it out to be.

IE: A 64-42-.36 is really a 53-42 .36.

If you are over-reving increase you weight.

Taken straight from Polaris shop manual. " The last number, {36 in this case}, is the measurment {length} at which the transition{angle change} takes place. I read that as the 64 angle is . 360 long.

The shop manual does say that, and it is correct for the original Polaris roller clutch.

Poo forgot to update the shop manual for the Team cam. They have missed this error 3 years running now.

Really? Same info comes out of the 2006 Team catalog. Do they have it wrong too? They even expand upon that info to include the full shift length on the cam surface

I put this quetion to team on their blog.

Keep an eye on it and see what they say.

http://www.team-ind.com/motorsports/forum/...?PostID=175#175

Speaking of Team, they have a sale on some items. 98 helix for $50 and Ti primary and secondary springs for $50. They hammer you with a $15 shipping fee. Order a couple items and you can make out well.

I tought Team doesn't sell outright?

Hey Darryl, see you reading this.

Ya, first I have heard of the angle thing. I am not suprised as anyone with the word "engineer" in their handle has to mess us up. :lol2:
Guess I'll have to start measuring the helix's and see what's up. Damn; ignorance is a lot less work :drunk:

The number following the dot is definitely the length of the transition (in hundredthes of an inch) from the first angle to the second. Its not an angle itself.

Ditto kmiller2's comment on the Erlandson clutch kit. I wasted my $ on one.

Umm!! Can you repeat the part about what you said about the thing
:frech32:

i have a 2006 600 ho with the bikeman pipe mod. what should i use for a clutch kit?

I'm also curious if clutch adjustments should be made after the bikeman pipe mod is done. Maybe a couple of grams on the flyweight?

I, I mean I know, somebody that will let you guys know if the BMP mod requires clutch weight adjustment

Sending out my pipe tomorrow for the BMP mod, also sending my comlpete clutch for them to set up their clutch kit correctly (with the specs I was given it would engage at 5400rpms and would top out at 8200rpms, engagement is too high)
I will post when it is returned if there is ant difference :div20:

I buy directly from Team. I think the only thing they can't sell direct is the current model stock parts (has something to do with their deal with Polaris) like the '07 stock parts.

What weight configuration did you have on the weights? I am curious!

BMP kit comes with the adj. supertip weights, I have the reccomended 50gram weights w/ 2 7g addditional on each heel...total 64g.
Engages at 5400...can't even get out of the garage :banghead:

Does the primary need to be shimmed?

I think they shoud start with the 40G base weight so you can add enough weight in the heel. I ran 40G base weight on a 600 last year, ended up with 63.5 G and about 10 or 11 grams in the heel with an almond/blue to get my engagement under 5000. I did have to reshim the Primary to get the clearance I wanted.

That is what I thought. If you weigh the weights, you will find that the total weight of each weight setup this way is approx. 65.7 grams because the 7 gram tungsten spacers are actually more than 7 grams plus the weight of the screws adds up to approx. 65.7 each.

I ve got the bmp pipe mod does anyone know what helix they are using/recommending?

With that setup I could still achieve the top rpm of 8150-8200, just would engage too high.
BMP has my clutch at this time and hope to get it back next week.

can someone tell me what the epi kit comes with for a helix. thanks

I gave you a bump on the TEAM site....I wonder if they will respond? It's only been five months since your post....

Here is TEAMs response...

Example 64-42.36

The shift starts out at 64 degrees and as the roller starts to move it progressively goes to a shallower angle. At .36 inches it is at 42 degree angle and remains a 42 degree for the rest of the shift.Total length of the shift is 1.125".