Im looking for some proven clutching setups for my 99 XLT. Either peicemeal or a kit. What works good? Sled sees mostly trail use under 60 mph with an occasional lake blast. It is studded.

Start with an Aaen Performance purple primary spring (Aaen part #AAS10034)
-Polaris T-1 helix (part # 5131013)
-Polaris silver/blue secondary spring (part # 7041646)
-Polaris 10M weights: 49.5 grams (part # 1321528)
Spin her at 8500 to 8700 rpm and hang on tight :div20: .
This setup works well on all XLT 600s with 38 mm carbs.

I have a 94 580 XLT would this clutch setup work for me as well? Mine is all stock and mostly trail driven as well. Some field or lake blasts once in a while too. Studded as well.

For the 92-94 580 XLT motor with 34 mm carbs, the clutch setup that will work best includes the following parts:
-Aaen purple primary spring (Aaen part# AAS10034) Aaen Performance
-10M weights; 49.5 grams (Polaris part# 1321528)
-T-1 helix (Polaris part # 5131013)
-Polaris blue secondary spring ( Polaris part# 7041296)
It will engage around 4600-4800 RPM and you'll want to full shift out at 8700 RPM. This is an awesome trail/lake setup.

Ok, so I guess id call Aaen and they would sell me just a spring, then go to the dealer for the polaris parts? Any idea how this would compare to just getting a kit from EPI? is this a better way to go?

On to jetting, my 99 is great once moving and really scoots, but it isnt very clean out of the hole. Also doesnt need much choke when cold. Ive been told to take the main jets down in size? my Mikuni manual says the mains are for 3/4 throttle and above which isnt where my problem is. Should I be dropping the pilot jets and/or the needles instead?

Is your '99 XLT the Special in the Aggressive chassis or the XLT Classic in the Evolved style? One more thing, you don't need to purchase weights for the clutch setup. The 10Ms are the stock weights.

If it's a 99 it's in the aggressive chassis and it has Mikuni flat slide rack carbs. The 98 still had rounds and the 2000 they called a triumph, same engine. To the best of my recollection, no 34mm carbs after 97. This high port motor makes power over a lot of rpm's without dropping to much, but is better off clutched 8300 to no more than 8500 w/ stock can. Short runs 8300, long runs, let her run up to 8500. I run just straight 10's and an Erlandson red in my '96 and a 42-34 (Polaris R-6) w/ a silver set at 12# pre-tension. If it has flat slides I'd even opt to a heavier starting angle on the helix due to better throttle response.


For those w/ 34mm carbs, only run them out to 8100, this is a lower port motor.

Its an evolved XLT classic with roundslides (unsure of the size)

I didn't even think about the Classic, the Classic does have 34mm carbs. With the X-tra 12 suspension, it probably never will be a barnstormer as it was intended for it's plush ride. A 42-34 (R-6) helix w/ a Polaris gold set on 8# pre-tension and a polaris blue in the front would clean it up quite a bit.

I was up north this weekend and took a look at the sled. It has a gold (100#/275#) primary spring. Looks like red (120#/245#) or blue (120#/300#) would be the next step up? how do you adjust the secondary? I just see 3 bolts and some sort of rotating deal. Im assuming that is how you tension the secondary? I want it tighter correct? Im sled and mechanically savvy but these polaris are new to me, tell me whatever I need to know.

Is there a listing of helixes somewhere? what is stock on my sled?

The blue spring I mentioned is a 120-285#. Your stock helix is just a straight 34deg, usually stamped on the backside. The three bolts up front are to externally adj. belt deflection to compensate for belt wear without taking the clutch apart and re-shimming. The R-6 number is the designation given for Polaris' 42-34 helix. Note the finish angle being the same as stock and you'd be taking the red spring out of the driven and putting in the gold to improve backshift with steeper helix angles. Spring tension is adj'd by different hole positions in helix, 1-4 running counterclockwise by number. May be easier to have Polaris dealer copy off page from Master Repair Manual for you to visualize.

Thanks for the reply. I have a pretty good understanding of the theory on clutching, the thing that was throwing me off was that im familiar with Yamaha clutches, they have the helix on the outside and these polaris are new to me, looks like the helix is inside? I was looking at microfiche and it looks like its in the center of the driven. So does the steeper starting angle of the helix allow the secondary to shift sooner or does it make it "resist" shifting untill a later time? Just trying to fully understand what im trying to do.

Also, whats the difference between a R-6 helix and a T-1 that Notillfarmer mentions above.

I got these ideas from Dennis kirk and the EPI website


PPH-42 40-32 progressive helix $29.95
PS-3 Brown primary spring $19.95 #125/#300
PDS-3 Yellow secondary spring $17.95 #46/#71
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Total: $67.85


Any comments?

I'd go with the EPI white in the drive not brown. Think of trying to keep a ball from rolling down hill, the steeper angle is harder to hold back without extra spring tension. On the back of the driven there's a big snap ring, compress the helix while taking off the snap ring, gently release. When re-installing sheaves will need 1/3 turn twist before re-install snap ring. Epi's helixes used to be stepped not progressive, I don't know if that is still so or not. That yellow spring worked fantastic with the stepped helix. The 42-34 helix will work better, and not sure of an aftermarket comparison for the Pol. gold.

U-con, thanks. I appreciate your time and input.

I put the EPI trail kit in my 98 XLT Limited, same chassis, susp and carbs as your Classic.

It works pretty good. Engages about 4900-5000 RPM. Good Back Shift.

It actually improved my fuel mileage over the factory set up.

Depends if you want to tinker to get every bit out or just a pretty good set up. Pretty good - go kit. Every bit out of it - tweak, tweak, tweak. I did that last year with my ZR and it took the entire season to get it dialed in. Can be frustrating if you don't enjoy wrenching.

I made clutch holding tools for the Primary and secondaries for both sleds to simplify the service.

See below for Polaris set.

I like to tinker and consider myself a good mechanic, but id rather not spend the short michigan season tweaking the sled. Pretty good, or at least better than now is fine by me. I realize this isnt meant to be a rocket of a sled so if I can just clean up the clutching a bit id be happy.
I did call EPI because their kit listed only up to 98 on the year application and mines a 99. But I felt a bit dismayed that they couldnt tell me for sure it would fit my application. They didnt know for sure why they only list up to 98. The best they could tell me was "we think it will work, maybe we missed that one". I wasnt feeling too positive about it. As far as I knew the 98 and 99 were identical mechanically. maybe im wrong.

Scott, do you have any specifics on the components in the kit? Like spring colors and helix angles? Reason is the kit is $151, but if I piecemeal the same parts (2 springs and a helix) off the website they are like $67 bucks because the helixes are on closeout on the web.

http://www.erlandsonperformance.com/new/SLED-polaris.php

The Helix in the kits is unmarked. I suppose to keep someone from doing the same.

My kit may be for sale shortly. The trusty XLT is in the classifieds. I may put it back stock and lower the price on the sled. I'll miss that one though. Best sled ever!

Scott, they wouldnt tell me helix specs over the phone either..So...

I have another question, for anyone. Is a 50 degree helix too steep/radical for my application? EPI lists a 40-32 and a 50-34. But everybody keeps suggesting a 42-34. Any reason the final angle has to be 34? the same as my stock helix? Will I notice any difference using the 40 degree over my stock 34, or is it not different enough.

If you had to pick one from this list what would you do and why.

40-32 Progressive
46-36 Progressive
48-38 Progressive
50-34 Progressive

Ive been hunting around for a used polaris R6 or T1 with no luck. Im gonna use a EPI white in the primary and a EPI yellow in the secondary. Just need to figure out the helix.

If you go less than the 34deg on top, you'll over-rev a bit ,but mostly, it'll just lay down and quit pulling. You just don,t have power enough and there's too much drag on that x-tra 12 to run a starting angle much above 42 deg, especially a 50. The 42-34 is progressive and the T-1 you're looking for starts at a short 42 to get you ouy of the hole, goes into a long 36 through the mid-range, and drops back to 34 run out on top and maintain your rev's. This is a stepped helix, works well w/ ERL yellow.

My Polaris dealer tells me that the T1 helix (pn 5131013) is no longer made. What is the closest to this one in performance? It's going in a 94 XLT 580.

42-34 (R-6), also back of helix is cut deeper, just need to add two more shims under snap ring, total of three.

Im still hunting for a R-6 or a T-1. No luck yet. If the season comes up and I dont find one, I will probably just buy the EPI kit. I appreciate everyones replies.

I noticed SLP makes a progressive helix at 42-38-34. What would this be like compared to the T-1 Where would the rpms be?

Erlandson white primary, or polaris light blue, stock weights. Hot seat HSP34S helix, hot seat white secondary spring #2. Check the clutch alignment, engine torque stop set tight, primary belt to sheave clearance no more than .020" with a new 3211070 belt. Check the carb sync, and be sure the throttle cable is adjusted so the slides clear the bores completely at full throttle, on the engine side. Jet the mains down 2 sizes from stock.

This is an old topic but I thought id respond for anyone searching on the subject. Finally got to drive the sled in this shitty Michigan winter. I ended up following most of the advice here for my setup and im very happy with how well it performs over stock. In my 99 XLT, im running an new EPI white in the primary, a teflon coated SLP 42-34 helix I got on Ebay, stock silver spring in the secondary in hole 2. I synced the carbs (they were off qite a bit) using the drill bit method, and jetted the mains down fron 250 to 230. Needle clips 3 from the top. The sled runs real well and is way better out of the hole, very snappy at all ranges and just performs excellent. I appreciate everyones input on this, you guys made it very easy. Thanks!

I'm running the SLP 42-38-34 with the silver secondary, 53 gram weights and the AAEN Purple. Man, it flat out hauls off the line, but hasn't hurt driveability either. Thats on a 94 580 with the 34mm carbs.