Guys,

My 99XC rear suspension bolts loosened up on me and ovaled out due to the bolt hammering up and down on the tunnel. I've replaced the inside bracket, but the outside (tunnel) is still ovaled.

Has anyone experienced this? If so, how did you fix it?

I was thinking about drilling the hole bigger and filling it with a cut peice of pipe with an inner diameter that matches the suspension bolt size. Probably JB Weld the peice in there or something.

Any thoughts? As of now I keep tightenting this up and it's eating my tunnel away.

Thanks.

Hmm,
how about riveting a (steel) plate on the outside of the tunnel too(so that you rivet the 2 plates together) , should be stronger than stock.

I agree, a plate is the only way to do it.

That would work, I guess. Do you guys think the rivots will eventually loosen up, as they are taking the blunt of the force? Or... should I mix a batch of JB Weld up, spear it on the plate... then rivot the plate to the tunnel?

Thanks.

You could have the plate welded on if you're worried about rivets coming loose.

I made a couple of plates out of stainless steel and used exsisting holes to bolt it to the rails (on the outside).Use a scotchlock nut with thread glue.
This was my buds 800 cat. Going strong on the second year. :beerchug:
I personally would not use rivets.They will loosen up and ya dont want to drill any more holes in the rails. Plus where ya gonna find a 5/16 rivet and gun. :frech32:

Ok,

Here's the plan. Im going to grind off any of the paint arount the tunnel oval hole... put my suspension in, mix a batch of JB Weld, smear it all over the back of the plate (like a peanut butter sandwich), bolt the suspesion down, compressing the plate to the tunnel and then add a few rivots to it.

Hopefully problem solved!

Had that happen to my edge. Don't forget a lot of Loctite! That was the only thing that would make my bolts stay in place

If you replaced the inside plate(steel),thats the strength of the mount. The aluminum doesnt do chit. My 98 has a bolt, lock washer and a steel washer. Find a nice steel washer that covers the oblonged hole and bolt it down. :frech32: Loctite is good and shock the bolt and retighten. Done. :div20:

Use the plate idea, we do it all the time, but use 1/4 -20 grade five bolts instead of rivets. Works better than stock.
performanceparts@centurytel.net

I had a steel plate put on the inside, and used a square backer on the outside, and it lined up perfectly. Riveted it together, and its fine. Did this to my brother-in-laws ZR800.

JB weld would NOT be a viable solution here.

My suggestion would be to have a hardened washer welded to the outside of the tunnel, or some sort of bracing.

Weld, not JB weld.

use an outter plate and some 1/4" bolts as stated above. i've done this on several sleds and it works great, you just loose that area to place your feet. the other option is to use tinners rivets, NOT POP RIVETS! the tinners rivets are solid and need an anvil of some type as a base when hammering in place. i use a large sledge as the anvil and a regular framing hammer to swell the rivet. tinners rivets are the best way to go, but they can be hard to find.

Thanks guys....

I'll skip the JB Weld, although I have had good luck with it in the past. I'll mount a plate with bolts and re-drill the hole from the inside out.

Just need to find a plate now. Anyone have an idea where to get one of these? Or what worked as a plate, that wasn't intended as a plate?

Thanks guys....

I'll skip the JB Weld, although I have had good luck with it in the past. I'll mount a plate with bolts and re-drill the hole from the inside out.

Just need to find a plate now. Anyone have an idea where to get one of these? Or what worked as a plate, that wasn't intended as a plate?

Best repair would be to gring it to an aricraft mechanic and have him put a sandwich patch on it and use a rivet gun with bucking bar to fasten to the tunnel. Two rows of small rivets aroung the edge will hold it in place.

You will need to cut out a circular area of damaged tunnel and replace with a piece that fits puzzle like into the hole and cover it with more material.

I tried a simple solution to the same problem, and it is still working.

Bring sled to a buddy who is good with a TIG welder and build up the egged out hole in the metal bracket.

Then redrill a tight hole to fit the bolt. Clean up excess with die grinder/dremel.

Make sure the mounting bolts are torqued at least 35ft/lbs.

Once the hole is egged out it is almost impossible to keep the bolt tight as it chews everything up from the slack.