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TRMOTORSPORTS
I bought an 04 roller from a snocross team. The rear end sits way up in the air, and I have just found out why. The rear/ rear suspension bolts are mounted below the running board on that black bracket that hangs below the tunnel. The front/ rear suspension bolts have been moved down about 2 inches from where they were. I have also noticed that the track is wicked tight. I remember hearing that the studs were hitting the front hear exchanger at full suspension compression on the 04's, and that is probaly why the track is so tight, but is there any reason that I need to keep the suspension in the lower holes?? I would like to lower the back of the sled by using the stock holes, but not if I am going to cause damage to the tunnel with the studs.
thanks
Tyler
whateverworks
tyler , if you look the front is likely mounted lower as well, they would have drilled new holes in the tunnel. the original holes should be visible unless they've plugged them. i can't see how this helps because the drive is in the same place BUT it must because it was an update on the polaris racing website in '04.good luck
TRMOTORSPORTS
Yes the front holes are ones that they have drilled out themselves. So is there any reason I couldnt lower it back down??
TR
shell_guy
lower away but just be carefull with the studs. Odds are your not going to be bottoming the suspension on the racer anyways.
bonk7210
I would be careful if you mount the suspension in the original mounting holes! If you are running the stock 1.75" track and have it studded you could run into trouble real quick. I was breaking my 04 in, less than 2 miles with studs, in the original mounting location and all I did was hit the brakes and the studs hit the front heat exchanger. That was the reason for the update...if you are running the stock track with no studs it shouldn't be as much of an issue. If you are running the 1 5/8 '03 track or something shorter it is a non issue. They did also recommend running the track really tight even in the lower mounting holes with studs, which for trail riding in low snow conditions really is the pits, trust me I've been there prying the clips from the hyfax.
TRMOTORSPORTS
Ok I will leave the front holes where they are, but will it hurt to put the rear holes back in the stock posistion??
I wouldnt think that moving the back holes up to where they should be will effect clearance in the front???
thanks guys
Tyler
mogulmasher
I put mine up to the upper holes. I was running a 1.5" track and it would hit front exchanger everytime I braked hard....not on acceleration. When braking it would roll up over the drivers.

Simple fix, I went down to home depot and got some .75" aluminum square tubing and got under there and custom bent up some front heat exchanger guards. Worked awesome, never contacted front exchanger again. :div20:

Sled seemed to handle a little better after lowering suspension...less roll. Race team I bought from actually said it was dropped to lower holes to give higher center of gravity so sled could be leaned through the corners better on sno-x track.
TRMOTORSPORTS
Thanks mogul masher that was what I was looking for.
I will move the back to the stock holes and leave the front where it is.
And if anyone is interested the sled is now finished and for sale!!! dunno.gif
too much work this winter and no money right now............
TR
whateverworks
Mogulmasher- i know this is a bit much but would you be able to post a pic. of the gaurds you made??? thats seems easier than what i have in the plans. there's another topic here that i started about cutting down the track to the '03 height.please and thank-you... :beerchug:
mogulmasher
QUOTE(whateverworks @ Dec 8 2005, 08:09 AM)
Mogulmasher-  i know this is a bit much but would you be able to post a pic. of the gaurds you made??? thats seems easier than what i have in the plans.  there's another topic here that i started about cutting down the track to the '03 height.please and thank-you... :beerchug:
*


Sorry no pics, got rid of sled last Feb. and got new computer since then and lost some pics of it.

Its pretty simple though. I did have my track and drive axle out though. Basically cut the tubing to approximate length, hold against exchanger and heat and bend it slowly into shape, then just squash the ends, drill and rivet into place directly over track windows.

It'll basically look like the Polaris excahgner guards at this site.

http://www.hiperf.com/acatalog/Online_Cata...ectors_204.html
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