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sixpkjoe6
I have a stock 1995 zrt 600 with 1500 miles that i would like to tune up a little.

Also, It has not been riding in a few years and no maintance has been performed

Now i know this sled is old but can anyone suggest a good cluth set-up, gears ratio's, carb set-up (jets), etc.

Any suggestions on reed's?

I am just looking to fixing up this sled for trail/lakeriding.

I still have problems with the middle cyclinder spark plugs also.

any performance upgrades that one could suggest please let me know.

I am going to switch to BR9EYA's this year and try that

I will also check to see if left motor mount is broken.

thanks in advance

Joe
DrWho17
QUOTE(sixpkjoe6 @ Dec 5 2005, 11:28 AM)
I have a stock 1995 zrt 600 with 1500 miles that i would like to tune up a little.

Also, It has not been riding in a few years and no maintance has been performed

Now i know this sled is old but can anyone suggest a good cluth set-up, gears ratio's, carb set-up (jets), etc.

Any suggestions on reed's?

I am just looking to fixing up this sled for trail/lakeriding.

I still have problems with the middle cyclinder spark plugs also.

any performance upgrades that one could suggest please let me know.

I am going to switch to BR9EYA's this year and try that

I will also check to see if left motor mount is broken.

thanks in advance

Joe
*

I used the Iridium plugs last year on my 1996, did not foul a plug the whole season. I see the price has dropped as well (getting some for my Dad's sled).
zrt improved
see "ZRT COMPRESSION THREAD" :div20:
Ronny
you may be aware but that is the fastest 600 ZRT made. i can only assume the timing was a bit advanced. maybe someone knows why it was soooo fast.
abagoz
True, the 95 and 96's were the bad boys of the ZRT 600's.. I would suggest the following

Studs for sure.
my 96 is running 330 mains safely and I did run 320's for awhile. Had a cold snap and went back to 330's and just never went back.
Rebuild the Fox shocks for sure, oil change and charge.

Clutching is the best thing you can do to that sled. I can tell you what is in my 99 ZRT but not sure about my 96 (now the wifes ride).

That sled runs real well that is for sure..

Compression should be 120 ish..

Alot of people recomend cutting the heads, and doubling up on the base gaskets.

Someone on here will be able to give you some clutch ideas
sixpkjoe6
I have to admit a mistake, it is not a 1995 but a 1996. i bought it in oct of 1995 and assumed it was a 95. but now that i checked the model number it is a 96ZRF-1996. So if this helps anyone to help me out i would appreciate any ideas on clutching suggestion or anything you might add. I have to admit i have been outta the snowmobile world for awhile and looking for a project since i cannot afford a new machine.

thanks for all that helped so far and any more in the future

joe
Ronny
i bought mine new. issues were the PTO motor mount bolt broke. the welds on pipe(s) failed and the safely switch on carbs never did function. i bypassed them at carb and relied on the kill switch and also added a tether. when issued PSI came up with an orange spring to raise engagement a bit yet allow proper rpm on top end. made sled snappier on trail. i added dial a jet but i think the holtzman termpraflow is a better thought. ran 8000 trouble free miles after first season. the fox shocks needed rebuild/recharge every year. i gave up on rear skid shock when it became my second sled and added a ryde fx instead and no longer needed a rebuild for three seasons of use. also remove the harness/engine connector and clean it. it corrodes and will lead to engine misfire. also remove the antifreeze overflow line and replace it with a longer one and direct it away from the plug i just mentioned. engine responds well to PSI pipes at 9200 rpms BUT we have noise concerns in wisconsin. added about 10 HP(133) on dyno.
BIG WHEELS
QUOTE(Ronny @ Dec 5 2005, 05:16 PM)
you may be aware but that is the fastest 600 ZRT made.  i can only assume the timing was a bit advanced.  maybe someone knows why it was soooo fast.
*


have read that 96 pipes made 125 hp 97/98 around 118 hp!
gpxsrxracer
Dynotech dyno'd the stock 96 pipes sealed(no leaks, big problem in 96)@ 123h.p. @8500 rpm's.
87gtNOS
QUOTE(gpxsrxracer @ Dec 7 2005, 09:24 PM)
Dynotech dyno'd the stock 96 pipes sealed(no leaks, big problem in 96)@ 123h.p. @8500 rpm's.
*


95 had the best pipes by far. 96's were ok, but had some flash (welding shit) inside the inlets that can be dremelled out for some more power. Strangley these pipes liked a good seal, make sure they are nicely fitted.

Check your squish, then install double OEM base gaskets, use Permatex HIGH TACK spray on all sides of them, put it back together(no head orings yet!!) and recheck squish. Subtract this amount from the original amount and cut the heads this amount and about 10 thous more..assuming they are stock, and infact you can actually cut each head to match the cylinder. Some on here may know the exact final squish, I think 65 to 70 thous is good.
This setup is 100% trail reliable. Rev 8500 I think, again someone on here may know what to rev it at.
Stock muffler can is best. I had DG stingers, loud, but may have slowed me down.
BR9EYA or Iridium plugs.
54gram weights, yellow/green (or try both, orange) primary spring
57/50 helix and yellow sec spring in middle hole.

Keep an eye on motor mounts!

You can get VF2 reeds or mod the stock cages and run the stock reeds with good results. I can draw you pics of modded stock cages if you wish.

Lake racer? Run 24-39 gears.
Drag racing your buds a thousand feet? 23-40 gears.

Clutches may need work to get overdrive....

Have fun! luxhello.gif
87gtNOS
QUOTE(Ronny @ Dec 6 2005, 11:25 AM)
i bought mine new.  issues were the PTO motor mount bolt broke.  the welds on pipe(s) failed and the safely switch on carbs never did function.  i bypassed them at carb and relied on the kill switch and also added a tether. 
*



Even the front mounts break :doh: The bolts break off!


Ditto on the carb overrides, get rid of them!
Ronny
oh yea almost forgot. the pipes fit terribly. it was literally impossible to get the fit right. i ended up getting the pipe to engine fit correct and then compromised the pipe to muffler fit. use orange exhaust permatex. a couple years lated added the PSI pipes and then it was a screamer. 9200 rpms.
96ZRT600
Check both clutch side mounts like people have said, I snapped both last year.

1996 ZRT 600 dyno results

http://www.m-performance.com/Grafik/Dynobi...ac/zrt60096.jpg

1997 ZRT 600 dyno results

http://www.m-performance.com/Grafik/Dynobi...aczrt600-97.jpg
sixpkjoe6
Thanks for all the posts so far I will get started this weekend.
sixpkjoe6
thanks again for the posts, got sled this weekend and broke choke lever off trying to start.

Could someone explain in more depth on the squish and double base gaskets.

What will that do for me, I am assuming it will provide more HP.

How hard of a job is this?

Thanks again and look forward to any more suggestions.

Joe
Ronny
that choke lever is an easy fix. AC has a replacement lever. lucky you did not do in boondocks. use a spray lithium grease. i do religiously after breaking mine.
ZRT4ME
The reasoning behind the 2 base gaskets and cutting your heads to match is to change your exhaust port timing a skoche..Few more ponies...I am in the midst of doing this right now with my 97 zrt. I ordered the Black magic base gasket for 60 bucks. As far as the squish thing......I'm not 100% on it, basically checking how much to cut the heads. Hoping somebody can elaborate on that for us.
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