My friend wants me to ask this question to you all. As I am familiar with Arctic cat. He has a 96 6oo xcr sp triple w triple pipe. he wants to get his sled running right after loss of clutch performace. He is also needing to replace the front drrive clutch becuase the bearing and the sheaves are cracking. So we need to set her back up again, but this time wants to get a bigger jump in front of my sabercat. What will he need to do? thanks in advance.

Karlmich

If you know what brand of pipes, give that compamy a call. They can give you the recommended clutch and jetting specs.

Never thought of that. I will see him today and get more information on the pipes. Anyone else have any ideas it would be a great help.

I do remember last year that he had a white spring in the primary, I am not sure about the weights and the secondary at all.

21/39 gears, hot seat white primary spring, hot seat Z hypershift weights, hot seat white secondary spring #2, hot seat HSP38S helix, with 1-.030" shim under the snapring. Engine torque stops set tight, no air gap, clutch alignment checked, primary clutch sheave clearance set to no more than .020" with a new 3211066 belt. Shims #7555764 under the tailpipe donuts to keep them sealed. Only 91 octane fuel, and BR9ES or RN2C plugs. Needle jets changed to 247 P6, needle #3 or 4 if lean bog on the hit, pilot air bypass drilled out to 1.8MM, stock pilots, air screws 1/2 turn. Carb and oil pump sync is very critical on this sled as well. Main jets no richer than 350PTO, 370,370. Engage at 47-5000, run at 7800 cold pipes, up to 8400 hot long run. Also adjust the suspension, remove the RRSS, springs on stiffest setting, front torque straps adjusted so with the suspension in, but track loose, from front torque arm limiter strap bracket, to top of rail just in front of bumper, 6", rear strap, from bottom edge of torsion spring to top of rail just behind bumper, 7 7/8". Also drill out the lower mounting position in the tunnel for the front torque arm and bolt it there.

It may take about three or four read throughs to get all of what he said, but once you get it and get the parts in you will be rockin like docken my friend.

Do everthing that pockets suggests. I did and it was like driving a totally different sled. Out of the box, these things were turds. After the clutching and suspension mods, they were actually competitive.

How much of this is stock? WOW this Sounds bad ass!!! He will be happy to hear about this. I assume we are using the Same clutch and secondary , just changing components? how much will all this cost him in parts. Thanks for the Comment Pockets.

Stock is what? 23/40 gears? and what are "pilot air" and "RRSS"
Oh BTW This is trail safe right?thanks in advance guys.

karl

None of the clutch components, gears, carburetion is stock, except for top gear, carb slides, pilots, needles. You are using the stock clutches, but also make sure they are not in need of bushings/rollers, etc. Stock gears were 21/35, you will need a 66p chain as well. RRSS is the rear suspension coupling blocks. Pilot air bypass, is the passage located directly under the pilot jet. 100% trail safe, with good fuel and the right plugs as indicated, and stock timing, and heads not cut. I am not sure what the parts will cost where you are. You will see 105-110 on the speedo with this, but no comparison to stock for running quality and acceleration. Also remove the windage plates from the secondary clutch.

Windage plate What are those?

Thanks,

I have a 66p HYVO chain if interested. The HYVO stuff is the best stuff you can get. If you are going to buy a chain and sprockets, it may as well be the best stuff you can get. The chain is like new. Windage plates is the thin metal ring on front of the secondary clutch held on with a few screws. By removing this, your seondary clutch will run much cooler and save on belt wear.

I'll sell the chain cheap.

Send me a pm..