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blade072
I have a 2002 Blade 1W-X with carbon fiber body that I have been playing with since new. It has a 700VES engine dynoed at 130 HP and 83 FT LBS. of torque at 8050. This is very helpful when setting up clutching. It now has about 8000 miles on it and really rocks. I am willing to share my findings with other Blade owners in hopes of helping their performance.
I added a 136 by 1.25 ripsaw track . I made my own rear extensions and also added 8 inch wheels. The 136 hooks up great with no studs. The traction is awsome in most cases. The 136 also give much more room behind the ace jack to remove and replace the rear idler wheels.
I noticed some of you guys looking for belts. I am also looking. The SRX belt is too long. You need a 1.375 wide by 44.125 long belt. This seems to work the best. I just bought a ultrmax 3 belt that seems to be very close. Part No. 138-440043. The problem is that all belts tend to vary to length so you must measure them before buying. The 97 Yamaha VX700SX belt also seems to be close to the correct size. Part No. 8CH-17641-00-00.
I am running a stock primary clutch that I clean every 600 miles. I added a Hi-Tech 911 response kit to it for ease of adjustment and added strength. I am running a Red White spring with 10-60 weights.
I am using a stock secondary with 50-36 Helix and the Silver Blue spring. I also changed gearing to the mountain gears which are the 27/51 ratio . This gives a final ratio of 1.88. This change really woke the sled up and didn't hurt the 15 MPG fuel mileage. This will give a top end of about a 100 which is fine for our type of riding. I am now able to beat good running F7s which I couldn't do before. But only to a 100.
I also added another tunnel cooler from Fast and a long Polaris snow flap. I had some overheating problems in minimum snow or hard pack conditions. This solved that problem.
I have altered the skid frame mounts and my buddy Rod has revalved the shocks . He lightened up the compression and put more rebound in the shocks. The sled now rides great and this change has really smoothed out the bumps.
It would be nice to hear from some of you guys and hopefully share some the the tricks that you have found. This will only make us a stronger group.
I would also like to know more about the trick clutch that one of the writers wrote about. I am now going to try a Paragon and a Performance Engineering clutch.
Hope to hear from you soon.
Jim
blade072@yahoo.com
Bladeguy
I am just starting to work on my 800 HPO. I am bringingn it in to have the new 04 polaris 800 ves motor installed today (I don't have time). I understand it is not just the length of the belt but also the angle. Interesting about the gearing. I have the M-16 which rides so nice until it gets in over its head - then WHAM! I am having the shocks re-valved (already put bigger springs on. Eventually will probably put an expert-x on. I am adding perc and electric start - very exited about that! I bought the electric start from a buddy who took it off his polaris. Thanks for the tips- lets keep sharing them. I know I have to have my can welded to toughen it up - it keeps breaking at the mount.
Bladeguy
I need a long flap - does yours say "Polaris"?
blade072
My flap does say Polaris...
Jim Camp
tried the paragon problems mounting it it pretty long for the outboard bearing. however the PEM clutch is working pretty good I am running 150-330 spring with polaris 10-74's in a fire cat style clutch and a secondary spring between the cat red white and yellow with 55-52 helix and a SRX belt and yes it full shifts. stirthepot.gif
Bladeguy
QUOTE(Jim Camp @ Nov 28 2005, 10:54 AM)
tried the paragon problems mounting it it pretty long for the outboard bearing. however the PEM clutch is working pretty good I am running 150-330 spring with polaris 10-74's  in a fire cat style clutch and a secondary spring between the cat red white and yellow with 55-52 helix and a SRX belt and yes it full shifts. stirthepot.gif
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Jim -

Thanks for the info. Which I new what it all meant - but I'll learn in time. Made me think though, can I make it work with PERC on a firecat style clutch?
Jim Camp
Yes you can use the firecat style clutch .The secondary would be an issue you would need a Team or an ER style secondary to use PERC the reason you use a firecat style clutch is because it is designed for an 1.375 belt and will push the SRX belt clear to the top where as a p85 will not un less you use a blade belt (good luck with that)
Bladeguy
QUOTE(Jim Camp @ Nov 29 2005, 09:05 AM)
Yes you can use the firecat style clutch .The secondary would be an issue you would need a Team or an ER style secondary to use PERC the reason you use a firecat style clutch is because it is designed for an 1.375 belt and will push the SRX belt clear to the top where as a p85 will not un less you use a blade belt (good luck with that)
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Jim -

I have a Team clutch - got the helix for PERC. The team clutch is stock - set up for the Blade belt. Any mod's required to the secondary to run the SRX belt? I assume I can adjust to handle the width change.

Another issue - I traded primaries with a buddy to get the ring for the starter to turn. (he took his elec start off - I bought it) Not sure if I could put this on the AC style clutch. Would it line up? Would it be balanced (or could I get it balanced). I'm to old and lazy - getting the electric start (already have it!) Maybe I am doomed to use these crappy belts.

Even thought the belts are crappy - they wear out way to fast. Think the motor is tweaking out of line when revved?


Thanks,

Reid
Jim Camp
Reid I dont think the ring gear will bolt up to the primary you can still use the srx belt it just wont go to the top of the clutch at wotI think the primary cause of the blade belt failing is the severe heat caused by the slipping secondary because the spring is to weak mabe a stiffer secondary spring might help its to late for me to try as I have gone to the dark sideLOL stirthepot.gif
Bladeguy
Jim -

Thanks for all the help. What is the implication of the belt not shifting out all the way? Lower top end? Also, my Team secondary has plastic "windage" plates on them. I think the idea was to try and make things spin faster by lowering wind resistance. I have heard of people taking these off to cool things down. I am trying that too.

SRX belt - any particular year, engine or model? Are they all the same?
Jim Camp
I would take the windage plates OFF and try a Black red team spring as that is what polaris is using originally every one was using a red blue and they had problems with that spring and mabe a -58-44-36 helix and yes if the belt does not go tto the top of the primary and to the bottom of the secondary you will not acheive the top speed we all want the Yamaha belt 8DN and 8CH have the same dim on paper however some of the 8CH belts are shorter that would benefit us but the 8CH is quite a bit softer and will wear faster and does run hotter .I went to neilsons and measured all thier belts and found the shortest 8DN and found 4 8dn at 44.25and bought them the rest were over 44.5 there is also a skidoo belt sold by goodyear that looks good but I havent figured out which sled it comes off as I lost the goodyear chart for the cross refrence:stirthepot:
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