I am looking for some modifications to make my 800 faster without spending a ton of cash. (aren't we all!!) I have been mainly looking into clutching and jetting. What equivalent to jetting is gutting the airbox? (which I have read by many as the thing to do) If I gut the airbox should I also re-jet or should I just gut the airbox? Maybe I should just jet it and leave the airbox alone? Also what should I be looking for as far as clutching? Is there anything else I can do to make this thing faster without changing it to much from stock. I was a little upset when Arctic Cat's F7 pretty much handed it to me in the radar runs. I currently have 120 studs which is another one of my problems. I bought 72 more studs for this year. There are no studs on the outside which will be changed this year but how many studs are reccommended? Please help this rookie out!! :augen41:

Leave the airbox alone.

1. Install a Tempa-flow or ATACC.
2. Clutch for the radar runs when you go to them.
3. Install a low windshield. The stock Edge windshield robs as much as 5 MPH on top end.
4. Don't expect to outrun F7s. Your engine is basically constructed on an 8 year old design whereas the F7 is in its infancy.

Do I need to do anything else with the jetting or is the stock jetting ok? I read a snowtech article and it seems these are great for when you are changing temps and altitudes frequently. I don't change altitudes much but the temps have sure been inconsistent in WI the past few years. The article talked mostly about altitude but would you say it provides optimum performance for temps as well? Thanks for the help Matt!! :div20:

The tempa-flow and ATACC both come with instructions about jetting. I think they say to jet your sled for 20 degrees Fahrenheit and then install the unit. The ATACC works best if you do a lot of elevation changing. The Tempa-flow is sufficient if you ride one elevation most of the time (like most of us WIers do) and just need temperature adjustment. I don't plan on sinking much into my sled this winter or I'd be putting an ATACC on for sure.

Polaris sleds are notorious for being jetted rich from the factory. Most posters seem to drop 2 main jet sizes right off and see what happens. I don't have an 800 but i did play with my jetting and realized significant mileage changes and performance gains. Just be sure to check the plugs and piston wash (if you can see it). When I installed a tempaflow I went back up one jet size without a problem. Clutching will be your biggest gain. I have heard conflicts about gutting airboxes. But if you do decide to gut it, check your jetting when you are done. Anything that changes air/fuel affects jetting.

Gutting the airbox CAN be done on these sleds, and it CAN gain you SOME performance, but you really have to know your stuff, and you should really have EGTs. Reading piston wash on the domestic twins is tough to do.

Offshore24, your sled NEEDED to be rejetted. The 2000 700s had jetting from Mars.

Great info guys, love to see it!

OT.

I would leave airbox alone. Gutting the airbox throws off your jetting. So like Matt said unless you know what your doing and looking for leave it alone. Go with the tempaflow for $ 130 it's money well spent. Your main jets need to be set for -20f your coldest riding temps. What year sled do you have? Can help you out with some clutching if interested one thing for sure you need to add heavier weights.

Thank you guys so much for working with me on this clutching thing. I constantly here two things about these 2002 800's which is jetting and clutching. Currently everything under the hood is bone stock so I could use all the help I can get. I've been an avid snowmobiler my whole life but this is the first time I've really gotten into trying to modify a sled even slightly. I have worked on a few of the things, taken apart carbs, replaced pistons etc so I have a general mechanical understanding but that is about it. I haven't messed with clutching or jetting to much so that is why I ask these questions which probably seem simple to most and I hope they do to me by the end of the year as well. I really don't want to spend 300+ dollars to take my sled somewhere to get it clutched when I could do it myself (with the help of some of you of course) and learn a lot more in the process.

So is there a big difference in the kind of clutch you buy or do they all have their good and bad points much like other products out there? Are the main things to adjust the springs and the weights? Also a little confused on where all the adjustments need to be made as far as the primary vs. the secondary.

Thank you very much for the help. It is appreciated more then you know. Hopefully I will be able to return the favor for someone in my position some day.

The Tempa flow is a very nice tuning tool and well worth the money.
Without a pipe I would run 144 studs. You should be able to beat the F7s with some tuning. Have your tach calibrated it's like $10. I have seen these off as much as 400-500 RPM. Once you have that done go to the radar gun. Magic marker up your primary sheeve to see if your fully shifting out. If the marker still on more than 1/4" from top you are not shifting out. Makesure belt tension is set (or new belt). Bring pen and paper note the following: Engagement rpm, What rpm the motor goes to just after you floor it, Then what rpm it pulls to slowley. i.e 4800, 7800, 8000. Now go try different weights and springs so you pull quick rpms to 7700 rpm then pull slow to 7900. +/-100 RPM, if your a couple hudred over or under you loosing HP. These 800's like weight like 68 grams and if using end loaded weights like TMS'x use 71 Grams. Last but not least makesure your VES valves are real clean as well as the air wholes and diaphram. If these are gummed it hurts low end.

Are you racing these F7 on the lake drag racing or wide open? Traction is a whole nother thing to talk about.

Good Luck. Go kill some F7's

A good site to go to for your sled is yahoo groups then look up xc 800ves. There are a ton of people on there and between them they have tried every combination so you know what works and what doesn't. Clutching is pretty basic once you understand it. Your primary is where your clutch weights are and your primary spring. the secondary is where the helix is and your secondary spring. To take off your primary you will need a clutch puller wich you can get for about $25 new.

wow

How much do u weigh with gear on?this will help with ur clutching.

>

:unsure:

I smoke F7 all day with my 2002 XC 800 X Edge... Again last week I smoked a 2004 Red Fighter edition... And I was only testing some gearing... I smoked him with a 21-40 gearing, and after, with the 25-39 gearing... And with stock gearing, I don't have any problem with the F7... Except the dealer F7...

well post what you did to it? give the guy some tips.
Have you searched the XC forum? Gotta be some setups between here and there. Heavier weights, springs and helix's.

I have a gutted box (SLP intake) between that and the SLP can im down to a 470 (-3 sizes) and it runs awesome.

If you want a very fast 800 for day to day use you need to gear up. They are geared too short stock unless you have an 1 1/4 track or larger. 25/40 is the correct gearing for 1 1/4 track. 25/38 for 1" track. Then clutch to that gearing. If your performance priorities are only within 660' gear down and add 240 ice picks.

slp twin pipes, anyone have good or bad results?

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no twin pipes on a trail sled, they cause more harm then good, go with clutching ,jetting, gearing and a good port job and a single pipe, an investment for a better track and /or studs can do a huge diffrence in perfomance...