i own a 92 RXL 650 triple bored 0.020, blanced crank, clutched to specs(last year) and im looking for more. i would like some help if needed. yes its a 13 year old sled but goes pretty damn good. im looking for more top end. at the moment im looking for some triple pipes and wondering about taller gears. if i do put gears in, would i need to do some clutching? ive been thinking of some 21-38 gears for it and maybe 48 studs to help me off the line.

any ideas would be helpful

what gearing are you running now?

from what I remember. 21-38 is a good all around gearing, at least double the 48 studs to 96, better for and less stress on the track and each stud. 120 would be even better, based on your "off the line" comment

IF YOU HOLD OFF ON THE PIPES I'D JUST JUST BUMP THE THE TIMING TO THE HIGH END OF FACTORY SPECS AND MAKE SURE YOU RUN GOOD PREMIUM FUEL. AS FOR GEARING YOU PROBABLY HAVE 21/39 WHICH ,AS STATED, IS A GOOD RATIO! AS FOR CLUTCHING GIVE EPI A CALL THEIR KITS ARE GREAT ESPECIALLY FOR OLDER POOS. I'D DEFINITELY PUT 120-144 STUDS IN DUE TO THESE SLEDS HAVING OFF THE LINE ISSUES.THE REASON I KNOW THIS COMBO SHOULD WORK IS THAT MY FATHER HAD A 91 RXL AND ON TOP END IT WAS SURPRISINGLY FAST.I'LL SEE IF I CAN FIND THE EXACT SPECS ON THE TIMING FOR YA.IF YOU CAN HOLD OFF ON THE PIPES TIL YOU TRY THIS. :div20:

Stock gearing is all you need. If you the pipes, because of the higher operating rpm, you will have more top speed. The RXL needs a chip with pipes, and I would only look at SLP's. You will also want to use good oil, and increase the oil pump setting. You could do as mentioned, bump the timing to the high side of spec, stock gears, and for clutching, erlandson white primary, 10A weights, hot seat white secondary spring, and a R12 helix, with 2 .030" shims under the snapring. Set the primary clutch clearance to .020" no looser with a new belt, and the weights you are going to use, check the clutch alignment, making sure it is right on, and set the engine torque stop tight, no air gap. Also install a front engine torque arm. Run it at 8-8200 rpm. Also check that the throttle blades are perpendicular to the bores at full throttle.

ANOTHER THING YOU SHOULD CHECK IF YOU DIDN'T ALREADY IS YOUR DRIVE TRAIN BEARINGS AND YOUR REAR SUSPENSION BEARINGS.MIGHT GAIN YA A FEW ON TOP! :div20:

well these are really helpful ideas guys. i think i mite call my mechanic and see what i can get for it. i am trying to get some pipes off ebay and then get a chip after the pipes for my EFI. maybe some clutch work(as you have said) and then some picks.

i still need skis and shocks so we will see,

any other ideas would be helpful