Installing a Shift Assist Kit in a DD Secondary w\pics, Guide Options

[GuyFromTheNorth]

Alright I just installed my first shift assist kit and it went well. What is a shift assist kit? Basically it's a roller bearing that replaces a washer underneath your secondary spring, the whole idea is to enhance shiftability and reduce spring bind.

Things you'll need before getting started:

-propane torch
-9\16ths deep socket or regular socket with extension
-torque wrench
-torx head and ratchet adaptor
-a long threaded bolt (12" should suffice but longer can't hurt) with nut\wing nut and 2 large face washers for either end (it's going to be a homemade clutch compressor)
-the deflection adjuster adaptor from your toolkit in the sled (three pronged metal adaptor in the kit)
-some patience

Here's some pics of the kit itself:
(IMG:http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/9813/6sakitrr8.jpg)

The kit says that there is a "thicker" washer and the order matter, mine didn't appear to have any thickness variations as seen here:
(IMG:http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/1680/7sathicknessos5.jpg)

[GuyFromTheNorth]

Step 1: Removing the Secondary

First start by removing your belt, this is easily done with a belt wrench, I won't go into detail on this as it's a common practice most should be familiar with, if unsure consult the users manual to your sled or ask around. Once the belt is off you're ready to pull the plastic "plug" in the middle of the clutch, use the adaptor seen in the picture below and slowly turn the peice out.

*WARNING!!!* this part is plastic so it may break or strip if horsed on in the dead of winter, try heating it with a hair dryer to smooth it's removal. It is also a REVERSE THREADED PART. Which means you need to turn it CLOCKWISE to unscrew it.

Removing the plastic adjuster
(IMG:http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/489/1removingadjusterax8.jpg)

(IMG:http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/9089/2adjustoutkm0.jpg)

Ensure you don't lose the washers or O-ring(s) attached to it. Set it aside for now.


Next up remove the bolt holding the secondary to the DD itself. It is 9\16ths in size and is regular threaded.

Removing the hold down bolt
(IMG:http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/4787/3tiedownboltoutgx4.jpg)


The secondary should now pull right off the splines of the DD with relative ease.

Pulling the secondary
(IMG:http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/9760/4pullingsecondarysf3.jpg)

[GuyFromTheNorth]

Step 2: Disassembly of the secondary

The easiest way to access the spring inside, and the washer to be removed, is to open the secondary via the rear (engine\DD) side. You'll note on the rear is 9 torx head screws, these will be the biggest challenge of this job.

Torx head screws:
(IMG:http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/6749/5backofsecondarylm4.jpg)


You'll need the long threaded bolt now to act as a compressor, the secondary is under alot of force via the spring inside. Run the bolt through the secondary and tighten it snugly with a washer on either end as seen below:

Secondary with homemade clutch compressor
(IMG:http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/8900/8clutchcompressor2td4.jpg)

(IMG:http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/4208/9clutchcompressor1fi2.jpg)

With the compressor holding the compression it's time to heat and slowly remove those torx screws. This can be a real pain in the ass as the torx screws are known to strip, bend, and even snap off. To me they appeared to be some kind of aluminum alloy (soft metal) so I can see why this happens, not to mention there is blue locktite on them internally. Start by heating the head of the screw with a propane torch, try and hold the secondary above the torch flame with the screw facing down at the torch, head rises so this will ensure good penetration. I counted approximately a 10 second count per screw before I tried twisting them, some may need more time to loosen the locktite.

Torching the screws
(IMG:http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/750/91heatingtorxwk0.jpg)


Here's the secret I used to pulling these SOB's. Once heated there is NO WAY you are twisting these out properly with a screwdriver type torx unit. You need a small ratcher with the adaptor to get the leverage needed, period. Press firmly into the torx head and ensure the bit is the EXACT size, twist in very slow very short turns and release. You need to give the screw time to "recover", if you just ball off and turn it a full half turn it'll probably snap off. Turn it maybe an eighth of a turn at a time, release the tension, then repeat. It's slow but it works, if you try and do "long" turns that torque builds up in the shank of the screw and BANG it snaps off, it also heats it up from friction which leads to more "flex". I loosened all the bolts a bit at a time, just enough to get the head off the sheave, then onto the next. Once they were all loosened I slowly removed them all.

HELP I...

1)Stripped a head.
->Carefully drill the head out just enough to pop the head right off but leave the shank of the screw in tact. Once the rest are out you can head the "stub" left over and twist it out with TIGHTLY clamped vise grips.

2)Broke a head right off
->Remove the rest of the screws, remove the sheave, then heat the stub with a torch and twist it out with visegrips carefully. If there is no stub left you may need to drill it out and re-tap the hole.

3)Bent a screw
->Carefully try and twist the rest out and replace the screw.

If you don't feel comfortable with any of those repair methods just bring it to a shop (or a machine shop) and have them do it.

Work them out a bit at a time, then move to the next to give it a rest.
(IMG:http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/425/92evenlypullemyc4.jpg)

I lucked out huge (unlike me) and didn't snap or strip a single one on removal.

Once they are all loosened take a sharpie permanent marker and mark the sheaves in relation to each other, the cup in relation to the rear sheave, the spring cup to the relation of the front sheave, etc:

(IMG:http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/5779/93marksheavesqs2.jpg)

(IMG:http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/4002/94moremarkingny2.jpg)

(IMG:http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/4100/95moremarkingbi3.jpg)


Now that it's all marked for re-assembly remove the torx screws (note the locktite):

(IMG:http://img457.imageshack.us/img457/8240/96torxscrewouthg7.jpg)


Once the screws are all out the rear will pull off evenly:

(IMG:http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/7592/97seperaterearsheavern5.jpg)


Now begin loosening the compressor. You'll notice the front spring cup will begin pulling away, the mounts where the torx went into will begin sinking through as well and the rollers will guide it:

(IMG:http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/8610/98loosencompressorbj5.jpg)


Uh oh the marks we made don't line up near the rollers, this is because it's following the grooved path, loosen it till it's about to come off and put a second mark to make life easier if you have to so you know the starting point on re-assembly:

(IMG:http://img457.imageshack.us/img457/6761/99marknewspotpy6.jpg)


Once all the spring pre-load is off the whole works will come apart nicely. You'll have a few "floating" parts that readily fall apart. The black washer, spring, and a white bushing that rides on the middle rod.

(IMG:http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/7751/991seperateclutchdk5.jpg)

[GuyFromTheNorth]

Step 3: Install the SA Kit


You'll notice a black plastic washer on the spring bottom. Remove it as the SA kit will be replacing this.

(IMG:http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/8577/992springandwashergy9.jpg)


The kit comes with some white lithium grease, throw the first was in with a face of grease on it, work some grease into the roller bearing itself and put it ontop of that washer, then finally put some grease on the face of the second washer (both of these are metal, the black washer is now garbage) that will face against the roller bearing and make a shift assist kit sandwhich.

(IMG:http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/7094/993firstsawasherlubedwp7.jpg)

(IMG:http://img457.imageshack.us/img457/7271/994bearingul7.jpg)


Step 4: Re-assembly

Once all the parts are back inside line up the "second marks" we made on the spring housing near the rollers and begin SLOWLY compressing our compressor. You'll have some trouble getting it all lined up at first. Turn the nut\wingnut until you feel resistance, DON'T force it. Take at look at the "legs" of the spring housing, they should all come accross the rollers at the same time and allow the rollers to ride up into the grooves. If they don't it'll bind and snag up on the roller. I tightened mine, felt it bind, found the leg that was caught and just squeezed it together with my hands until I felt it "pop" into it's guide and tighened the compressor a bit more until all was koscher. You can tell from the backside if it's going in right because those "legs" should come up to the inner clutch face at the same time as seen below:

(IMG:http://img457.imageshack.us/img457/1812/995compressevenlyll8.jpg)


If you don't trust the torx screws that came out replace them. Blue locktite them (you don't want a clutch coming apart at 100mph lol) but only do part of the bottom shank, there's no need to coat the whole bolt and make it near impossible to remove again. I can't find the torque value in my manual so someone may want to chime this one in, the part is not listed in there but it may be 5.5 ft\lbs but please call a dealer or if someone knows post up to confirm this. Make sure all the screws go in evenly, put them all in up to the last bit then in a criss-cross fashion begin torquing them in, crossing back and forth from side to side will ensure the plate is drawn in evenly without bind.

Now re-install the clutch onto the DD, replace the hold down bolt in the center, again my manual doesn't list the torque spec, if I find it I'll post up, if you're worried about it put a drop of locktite blue on it and twist it in, just don't horse the hell out of it with a breaker bar. Next up is the REVERSE threaded plastic adjuster. Turn it in counter clockwise, I always put some blue locktite on it to keep it from backing out. It's torque spec is 14 ft\lbs as listed in my book.

Hopefully this write-up helps some folks, if I missed anything major let me know. Thanks to all who answered my Q's while I pondered doing this job, you're help is appreciated!

[DonoBBD]

You have one of the different secondarys.

What size is it and what are the sheave angles?

Was the extra holes in the gold ring bearing retainer on the inner sheave or did you have to drill them? Make dam sure that ring gets put back in there.

Watch your white deflection ajuster for cupping. I use the F6 up-dated one and it has a vent in it to vent the DDrive. Much stronger.

Blow your mind with the M1000 orange secondary spring.

This post has been edited by DonoBBD: Nov 1 2007, 06:00 AM

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[ToddUF7]

My kit didn't come with any lithium grease. I ordered it last year but didn't install it, yet.

I haven't read anything before about lithium grease. I would think the grease would splatter all over and collect
belt dust. Anyone have any input/experience with the shift assist and lithium grease?

Thanks!
Todd

[GuyFromTheNorth]

My kit didn't come with any lithium grease. I ordered it last year but didn't install it, yet.

I haven't read anything before about lithium grease. I would think the grease would splatter all over and collect
belt dust. Anyone have any input/experience with the shift assist and lithium grease?

Thanks!
Todd

I don't see how it would hurt, I mean grease or not the bearing would collect belt dust since it is a moving part with gaps in it. The amount of grease in the tube was so small that even when assembled grease didn't squeeze out above the washer(s) so I think it'd be fine.


EDIT: For those interested the cap machine screws (9 torx head screws) were updated, most likely due to the originals being very soft\breakable metal. The updated PN according to the parts lookup on ac.com for 2006 XF's is 1623-517. I replaced mine with the updated ones because I didn't want to risk problems down the road with removing them nor did I want to snap one off re-installing them.

This post has been edited by GuyFromTheNorth: Nov 1 2007, 07:49 AM

[F_ast]

uaually, even the smallest amount of grease near the clutches cakes up real quick. thats why you are suppost to run dry molly for lubbing clutches arent you? I havent with the mine though.

when i picked mine up from canadian bearing, the guy at the counter told me needle roller thrust bearings will not need to be grease in simple compression and slight torsion situation. Only if it is a high speed constant rotation application.

I havent pulled mine apart since using it last year, but havent put too many miles on it either. Maybe i'll open mine up and see whats going on in there. No problems with it that i know of not using grease though


EDIT: GFUN, aren't i'm pretty sure the middle on the helix is for a dowel. On my 05 helix, the center hole isnt threaded like the 2 adjacent holes. Did you tap that center to accept a screw or did your 06 come tapped?

This post has been edited by F_ast: Nov 1 2007, 07:56 AM

[GuyFromTheNorth]

uaually, even the smallest amount of grease near the clutches cakes up real quick. thats why you are suppost to run dry molly for lubbing clutches arent you? I havent with the mine though.

when i picked mine up from canadian bearing, the guy at the counter told me needle roller thrust bearings will not need to be grease in simple compression and slight torsion situation. Only if it is a high speed constant rotation application.

I havent pulled mine apart since using it last year, but havent put too many miles on it either. Maybe i'll open mine up and see whats going on in there. No problems with it that i know of not using grease though
EDIT: GFUN, aren't i'm pretty sure the middle on the helix is for a dowel. On my 05 helix, the center hole isnt threaded like the 2 adjacent holes. Did you tap that center to accept a screw or did your 06 come tapped?

Good to know on the grease, I'm not too worried about it, it's fairly well protected and even if it did get some crud in it it'll still twist better than a squished washer hehe. All the holes on mine came tapped and screwed, this walkthrough was done on a secondary from a 2006 crossfire 700 no clutch mods, late build.

[bee1971]

My kit didn't come with any lithium grease. I ordered it last year but didn't install it, yet.

I haven't read anything before about lithium grease. I would think the grease would splatter all over and collect
belt dust. Anyone have any input/experience with the shift assist and lithium grease?

Thanks!
Todd

Both of my kits didnt come with grease either

I checked the bearings , there fine after about 1,500 miles - But i also dont think a little grease would hurt

[bee1971]

uaually, even the smallest amount of grease near the clutches cakes up real quick. thats why you are suppost to run dry molly for lubbing clutches arent you? I havent with the mine though.

when i picked mine up from canadian bearing, the guy at the counter told me needle roller thrust bearings will not need to be grease in simple compression and slight torsion situation. Only if it is a high speed constant rotation application.

I havent pulled mine apart since using it last year, but havent put too many miles on it either. Maybe i'll open mine up and see whats going on in there. No problems with it that i know of not using grease though
EDIT: GFUN, aren't i'm pretty sure the middle on the helix is for a dowel. On my 05 helix, the center hole isnt threaded like the 2 adjacent holes. Did you tap that center to accept a screw or did your 06 come tapped?

The 05s came with six torx screws on the helix - On my Crossfires they came with nine screws - When i switched to Cats 50-38 helix on my Crossfire it only came threaded for six screws
Yes there were nine hole there , but only six were threaded - I only used six screws - A little blue locktite and i switched over to button head type allen screws - Those factory torx screws sucked big time - Now i see/Or last year they superceded those part numbers on the torx screws - Hopefully a better quality metal , and six are fine

[bee1971]

One more thing i noticed on the sheaves for balancing - Each sheave has a DD symbol like a diamond - Those are your alignment marks - Some sheaves will have a index mark right next to that symbol or diamond , some not - All my secondaries i have had apart , those diamond symbols line up sheave to sheave for balancing

[kwelklin]

Thanks alot GFTN for a great post!

[F_ast]

The 05s came with six torx screws on the helix - On my Crossfires they came with nine screws - When i switched to Cats 50-38 helix on my Crossfire it only came threaded for six screws
Yes there were nine hole there , but only six were threaded - I only used six screws - A little blue locktite and i switched over to button head type allen screws - Those factory torx screws sucked big time - Now i see/Or last year they superceded those part numbers on the torx screws - Hopefully a better quality metal , and six are fine

Bee and GFTN,

i didnt know that the 06's came with 9 torx screws like that. I drilled my 05 gold helix retainer to accept a dowel to better align the helix to the sheaves every time i took it apart. I cant remember what size dowel i used off the top of my head, but its a nice seated fit. I am supprised cat didnt dowel the center hole to be honest. i guess the 3 screws per helix arm was just to deal with breaking/ shearing screws and cheaper than dowels. I never had this problem, myself but have read about it. I just like how central the helix is when tightening everything up when doweled.

By the way, nice write up GFTN, just like the other ones you have done. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popc1.gif)

This post has been edited by F_ast: Nov 1 2007, 01:07 PM

[DonoBBD]

Bee and GFTN,

i didnt know that the 06's came with 9 torx screws like that. I drilled my 05 gold helix retainer to accept a dowel to better align the helix to the sheaves every time i took it apart. I cant remember what size dowel i used off the top of my head, but its a nice seated fit. I am supprised cat didnt dowel the center hole to be honest. i guess the 3 screws per helix arm was just to deal with breaking/ shearing screws and cheaper than dowels. I never had this problem, myself but have read about it. I just like how central the helix is when tightening everything up when doweled.

By the way, nice write up GFTN, just like the other ones you have done. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popc1.gif)

Fast the very first clutch I seen of these had dowel pins in there. They were 8mm pins. This is the optimum centering set up. You will center the helix perfect with the bearings as well as never shear them off.

I truly thing these were rushed to the shop and there is a few different versions of secondary set ups. Helix angles and spring rates are all the same but how the secondary came machined is different. Different sheave angles primary and secondary as well as now going back to the three post primary on the F8's.

I realy think there is a really good reason for the slow pro sleds.

[GuyFromTheNorth]

Bee and GFTN,

i didnt know that the 06's came with 9 torx screws like that. I drilled my 05 gold helix retainer to accept a dowel to better align the helix to the sheaves every time i took it apart. I cant remember what size dowel i used off the top of my head, but its a nice seated fit. I am supprised cat didnt dowel the center hole to be honest. i guess the 3 screws per helix arm was just to deal with breaking/ shearing screws and cheaper than dowels. I never had this problem, myself but have read about it. I just like how central the helix is when tightening everything up when doweled.

By the way, nice write up GFTN, just like the other ones you have done. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popc1.gif)

Good info, interesting the small differences found in sled parts as the build year goes on. I'm sure it'll line up nicely as long as I put all the screws back in and slowly criss-cross tighten them so the clutch seats properly, I temporarily re-assembled it in the garage but am waiting on the newer screws to come in before I both torquing and locktiting it back together. Glad you guys enjoyed the write-up, hopefully it gets stickied because it's always nice to have pics and info when tearing into something like this for the first time, I wish I had a write-up before I did mine, luckily though everything went smoothly (IMG:style_emoticons/default/grinning-smiley-023.gif)

[DonoBBD]

YOu will see the play that is in there.

[chevette_boy]

uaually, even the smallest amount of grease near the clutches cakes up real quick. thats why you are suppost to run dry molly for lubbing clutches arent you? I havent with the mine though.

when i picked mine up from canadian bearing, the guy at the counter told me needle roller thrust bearings will not need to be grease in simple compression and slight torsion situation. Only if it is a high speed constant rotation application.

I havent pulled mine apart since using it last year, but havent put too many miles on it either. Maybe i'll open mine up and see whats going on in there. No problems with it that i know of not using grease though
EDIT: GFUN, aren't i'm pretty sure the middle on the helix is for a dowel. On my 05 helix, the center hole isnt threaded like the 2 adjacent holes. Did you tap that center to accept a screw or did your 06 come tapped?

you got your "shift assist" from a bearing store? if so what are the p/n's or specs i was thinking of doing the same

[catman4]

Very nice directions, I'm actually lookin at gettin one for my Firekitty

[killerrf]

the only thing you forgot to mention which I think is important is to take a wire brush and clean the old loctite from the bolts and take a thread chaser or a tap and run it in and out to clean the threads in the helix and get all that old loctite out. just my thoughts.
pretty good write up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.png)