Ok guys here i go, i have just read through 2 posts about conversions and thats all this forum is now, so i am going to put in my .02 on what you need to do to make them work.
First- the chassis
- depeneding on the sled year you may need to relocate the rear skid to adjust track attack angle. (2005 model)
- The shocks should be revalved softer and along with that come springs, depending on rider weight and use, pick the lbs for you.( you can ride it without,but its like riding a log) The WE shocks could also use some attention to the internal components as in useing some differnt seals and slight moding of the shaft.
- Extra wheels, you will definitly need extra wheels on the skid if you plan on trail riding the sled, 2 will do but 4 is better. the hardware can all be found polaris parts fiches.
- Spindles, i would reccommend brad (1200psi) power addiction spindles mainly because of workmanship these things are works of art, and very functional. He makes them in several differnt sizes now, the most popluar for trails is the 2'' drop. You can cut and weld the stock spindles.
- Skis, the stock skis with good carbide work well, i am running slp powder pros with 6 shapers and this makes the sled handle a lot more like a trail sled.
- Oil lite bearings and bushings, The front a-arm bushings on the sled need to be maintained and serviced regularly if you want the front suspension to function properly. There have been serveral different fixes for this to elongate the service interval. 1. drill all arm pivots,weld on a small boss and then tap and install grease fittings. 2. (faster fix) same idea as the first one. drill the the a-arms and use a pin stlye grease head and inject them this way. Either one you choose, grease them regualry. This process should be repeated on the rear suspension pivots.
- Driveshaft and Jackshaft bearings. These bearings should be maintained and serviced regulary. To elongate the interval you can drill a small hole similiar to the 2end fix for the a arms and use the needle head to inject in the needle port of the bearings.
Second- motor
- Stock, 600 VES
- Stock 440 mill If you choose to run this motor serveral issues must be addressed.
- Center crank bearing. This is the most common failure on the site and the trail. The fix for the problem comes in 2 methods. 1. oil injection- with oil injection you will need to get the pump, cable and hoses. This is an relitivley easy fix but pricey. Then comes the PTO grease zerk. some leave it alone, and that works just fine. I have seen one mod where he drilled out the zerk threads and installed a check valve to oil the pto bearing this way. If this route is not taken a simple "T" in the oil lines to the center crank bearing will work. Oil tanks are also a well spoken about topic for these sleds. the most popular tank is the US Plastics tank that with a bracket can be easily mounted. Another option is an older indy xcr tank that with an easy bracket can work well. The fusion has also been installed but may not be the best route. 2end fix more commonly known as the rippered fix. With this fix no oil injection is nessecary. In this fix you will need to drill out a second oil passage for the crank bearings, this allows more oil to the crank. PM Ripperd with more ?'s. With oil injection you will need to throttle cable from a 01 440 (for the oil cable)
- 600 VES This motor is a reliable choice
- First the motor needs to be shimmed to allow the carbs to clear the jackshaft. This is accomplished by using pro x carb manifold boots, and placeing a 3/4" spacer between the motor strap and the motor itself (longer bolts needed). Along with the spacer a 1/4" shim needs to be placed between the motor mount and the motor strap. When doing the motor install you will need to remove the PTO ehxaust valve and install it once the motor is in the chassis. With the motor sitting higher the PTO spark plug cap may not fit, to fix you will need to notch the steering hoop to allow clearance. The stock 440 torque will work on this motor. The stock belt will also work with set up. The next step is a choice of the owner, whether to run a thermostat or not. Many guys on here have removed the T stat and blocked off the inlet in the head. This set up works!
if you choose to run a T stat you will need to get a coolent bottle with a bypass hole. A rev tank works well because of the head and angle.
- Air box, Electronics, Clutching and Gearing.
- The stock 440 air box will work. you will need to get your hands on a set of 600 air box carb boots. The jetting of the carbs should be set at stock and then adjusted accordinly.
- The wire harness from the 440 will work with the 600. The only wiring needed is the section from the CDI to motor. If you choose to have the 440 cdi remapped to a different curve then this will not be needed. I dont no if anyone has done this (remap) in my opinion the 600 stock cdi is the best choice.
- The stock clutch will work with the 600. There are many different set ups, my favorite is 10-61 weights (ground down) alomond blue spring, Delerin washers in the secondary, and the stock secondary guts. with the newer 321114 belt.
- Gearing is endless a popular set up is 22/43 with stock chain.
Pipe
- Ah yes the pipe. With the 600 VES a 600 y pipe is needed. A simple mod to the stock system will allow for trouble free miles (PM AKprox pilot, he does this and can answer any question)
- Another choice is a pipe being cut and welded to fit, In my case i had a 600 VES pipe and Dynoport can fit which works.
- As of now there is no stock pipe that fits without modification.
Fuel tank(s)
-NEW polaris tank (about 8.2 gallons)
- Wicked tank (8 gallons)
- The wicked tank fits very well and installs in minutes.
600 HO
- This motor is the easiest swap.
- No shims needed!
- Same pipe situation as the 600 VES
- Similiar clutching and gearing set up
- Same Thermostat issue as 600 VES
This is my snyopsis of the conversion, i own a 06 iq with a 600 ves in it and by far the most fun i have had on a sled.
I am sure i have left something out so feel free to add.
Matt
First- the chassis
- depeneding on the sled year you may need to relocate the rear skid to adjust track attack angle. (2005 model)
- The shocks should be revalved softer and along with that come springs, depending on rider weight and use, pick the lbs for you.( you can ride it without,but its like riding a log) The WE shocks could also use some attention to the internal components as in useing some differnt seals and slight moding of the shaft.
- Extra wheels, you will definitly need extra wheels on the skid if you plan on trail riding the sled, 2 will do but 4 is better. the hardware can all be found polaris parts fiches.
- Spindles, i would reccommend brad (1200psi) power addiction spindles mainly because of workmanship these things are works of art, and very functional. He makes them in several differnt sizes now, the most popluar for trails is the 2'' drop. You can cut and weld the stock spindles.
- Skis, the stock skis with good carbide work well, i am running slp powder pros with 6 shapers and this makes the sled handle a lot more like a trail sled.
- Oil lite bearings and bushings, The front a-arm bushings on the sled need to be maintained and serviced regularly if you want the front suspension to function properly. There have been serveral different fixes for this to elongate the service interval. 1. drill all arm pivots,weld on a small boss and then tap and install grease fittings. 2. (faster fix) same idea as the first one. drill the the a-arms and use a pin stlye grease head and inject them this way. Either one you choose, grease them regualry. This process should be repeated on the rear suspension pivots.
- Driveshaft and Jackshaft bearings. These bearings should be maintained and serviced regulary. To elongate the interval you can drill a small hole similiar to the 2end fix for the a arms and use the needle head to inject in the needle port of the bearings.
Second- motor
- Stock, 600 VES
- Stock 440 mill If you choose to run this motor serveral issues must be addressed.
- Center crank bearing. This is the most common failure on the site and the trail. The fix for the problem comes in 2 methods. 1. oil injection- with oil injection you will need to get the pump, cable and hoses. This is an relitivley easy fix but pricey. Then comes the PTO grease zerk. some leave it alone, and that works just fine. I have seen one mod where he drilled out the zerk threads and installed a check valve to oil the pto bearing this way. If this route is not taken a simple "T" in the oil lines to the center crank bearing will work. Oil tanks are also a well spoken about topic for these sleds. the most popular tank is the US Plastics tank that with a bracket can be easily mounted. Another option is an older indy xcr tank that with an easy bracket can work well. The fusion has also been installed but may not be the best route. 2end fix more commonly known as the rippered fix. With this fix no oil injection is nessecary. In this fix you will need to drill out a second oil passage for the crank bearings, this allows more oil to the crank. PM Ripperd with more ?'s. With oil injection you will need to throttle cable from a 01 440 (for the oil cable)
- 600 VES This motor is a reliable choice
- First the motor needs to be shimmed to allow the carbs to clear the jackshaft. This is accomplished by using pro x carb manifold boots, and placeing a 3/4" spacer between the motor strap and the motor itself (longer bolts needed). Along with the spacer a 1/4" shim needs to be placed between the motor mount and the motor strap. When doing the motor install you will need to remove the PTO ehxaust valve and install it once the motor is in the chassis. With the motor sitting higher the PTO spark plug cap may not fit, to fix you will need to notch the steering hoop to allow clearance. The stock 440 torque will work on this motor. The stock belt will also work with set up. The next step is a choice of the owner, whether to run a thermostat or not. Many guys on here have removed the T stat and blocked off the inlet in the head. This set up works!
if you choose to run a T stat you will need to get a coolent bottle with a bypass hole. A rev tank works well because of the head and angle.
- Air box, Electronics, Clutching and Gearing.
- The stock 440 air box will work. you will need to get your hands on a set of 600 air box carb boots. The jetting of the carbs should be set at stock and then adjusted accordinly.
- The wire harness from the 440 will work with the 600. The only wiring needed is the section from the CDI to motor. If you choose to have the 440 cdi remapped to a different curve then this will not be needed. I dont no if anyone has done this (remap) in my opinion the 600 stock cdi is the best choice.
- The stock clutch will work with the 600. There are many different set ups, my favorite is 10-61 weights (ground down) alomond blue spring, Delerin washers in the secondary, and the stock secondary guts. with the newer 321114 belt.
- Gearing is endless a popular set up is 22/43 with stock chain.
Pipe
- Ah yes the pipe. With the 600 VES a 600 y pipe is needed. A simple mod to the stock system will allow for trouble free miles (PM AKprox pilot, he does this and can answer any question)
- Another choice is a pipe being cut and welded to fit, In my case i had a 600 VES pipe and Dynoport can fit which works.
- As of now there is no stock pipe that fits without modification.
Fuel tank(s)
-NEW polaris tank (about 8.2 gallons)
- Wicked tank (8 gallons)
- The wicked tank fits very well and installs in minutes.
600 HO
- This motor is the easiest swap.
- No shims needed!
- Same pipe situation as the 600 VES
- Similiar clutching and gearing set up
- Same Thermostat issue as 600 VES
This is my snyopsis of the conversion, i own a 06 iq with a 600 ves in it and by far the most fun i have had on a sled.
I am sure i have left something out so feel free to add.
Matt