Primary clutch shim for turbos? - Page 2 - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 11-20-2011, 09:55 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Must have been someone else. Primary clutch same as 2011. Shim still required for serious racing with all cam arms I have tried. Shimming is different than 2009-2010. If you are using the D&D shim, be sure it is for 2011-2012 and not the older one. Trail use will be fine without the shim.
So will it be o.k to run the D&DQA-T without the shim? Have the tools did it to my 09. Also what size shim and small end up? Thanx in advance.
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Old 11-20-2011, 10:03 AM   #12 (permalink)
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So will it be o.k to run the D&DQA-T without the shim? Have the tools did it to my 09. Also what size shim and small end up? Thanx in advance.
post down (small side)towards inner sheave, allows the sheaves to open more. Same shim as d@d 2011 clutch kit for new sleds
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Old 11-20-2011, 10:04 AM   #13 (permalink)
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So will it be o.k to run the D&DQA-T without the shim? Have the tools did it to my 09. Also what size shim and small end up? Thanx in advance.
Ok guys clue me in...first cat ive ever owned and first turbo....

Is this shim strictly needed when using aftermarket weights/arms?

For an ECU tune, what is everyone doing for clutching? i was under the impression with the REV Limiter raised in the tune, we just were to run up around 8400rpms and were good to go.

I read so many threads saying the motor actually made better power/tq numbers up around 8400 too. So why not just run it there and not need to worry about a gearing change then?

thanks!
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Old 11-20-2011, 11:07 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Whether or not you need the shim has more to do with what you are using the sled for, rather than what weights you are using. Some more aggressive weight profiles (D&D holeshot, STM turbo) require shimming, just to make them fit. If you are having issues gripping the belt down low (usually only a problem on standing start wot, with very good traction), then you may want to give it a little more bite, with added shim. Very difficult to get a good race setup without added shim. Trail setup will be fine with stock shimming. D&D trail use T1 weights and white primary with stock belt and secondary. D&D race use shim, D&D belt, big D&D helix (still fine tuning details).
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Old 11-20-2011, 02:54 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Whether or not you need the shim has more to do with what you are using the sled for, rather than what weights you are using. Some more aggressive weight profiles (D&D holeshot, STM turbo) require shimming, just to make them fit. If you are having issues gripping the belt down low (usually only a problem on standing start wot, with very good traction), then you may want to give it a little more bite, with added shim. Very difficult to get a good race setup without added shim. Trail setup will be fine with stock shimming. D&D trail use T1 weights and white primary with stock belt and secondary. D&D race use shim, D&D belt, big D&D helix (still fine tuning details).
thanks for the detailed info, much appreciated!

I take it for trail riding and radar running only i should be ok with stock setup and just run more rpms. I would like to see what arms work well and maybe do a change on the arms only. I think ive read the secondary setup is good to go stock.

I guess with clutching we will all know more when we get some seat time in finally....need snow and a damn sled too!..LOL

Dan
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Old 11-20-2011, 03:01 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Old 11-20-2011, 03:20 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Is the D&D shim the same as the Dalton?

Arctic Spider Shim
DSS-A1
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File Type: jpg arcticSpiderShim_t.jpg (6.3 KB, 361 views)
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Old 11-20-2011, 03:29 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Is the D&D shim the same as the Dalton?

Arctic Spider Shim
DSS-A1
are we talking a shim behind primary spring?

Dan
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Old 11-20-2011, 03:40 PM   #19 (permalink)
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no. it's a shim located under/behind the spider as to relocate the moveable sheave. requires spider removal.
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Old 11-20-2011, 03:54 PM   #20 (permalink)
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This shim goes between the spider and the outside sheave. You have to remove the large nut and spider and the shims are under the spider. Requires a clutch holder, deep well socket, a spider removal tool, and lots of heat.
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