137 X 1.6 Cobra? - Page 3 - HCS Snowmobile Forums


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Old 06-17-2017, 08:13 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Current Sled(s): 2012 Shift 136
Previous Sled(s): 2015 SBA 600 2014 phazer xtx
Location: East Central South Dakota
Favorite Riding Area: Powder Fields of ND
16-17 Mileage: 200
15-16 Mileage: 300
14-15 Mileage: 500
13-14 Mileage: 1500
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I am looking at swapping out my oem 1.25 137 with the 1.6 ice cobra on my 550 shift.

Here the only place we can ride is ditches. First they fill with a few inches of snow that always melts because of the new warm temps. Then it freezes and drops 6-10 inches of this fine hard "pellet snow" that then piles 1-3 feet in the ditches. Last ride of the season I got buried fast when I jumped into the ditch and the track dug down to the ice in a couple seconds...game over.

This seems like it would be the perfect track for these conditions. Will I have to do anything with the gearing and how hard is that to adjust? Normal riding speed is 10-14 mph because of the narrowness of the ditch and all the things you can hit.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-17-2017, 08:32 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by flyinghigh View Post
I am looking at swapping out my oem 1.25 137 with the 1.6 ice cobra on my 550 shift.

Here the only place we can ride is ditches. First they fill with a few inches of snow that always melts because of the new warm temps. Then it freezes and drops 6-10 inches of this fine hard "pellet snow" that then piles 1-3 feet in the ditches. Last ride of the season I got buried fast when I jumped into the ditch and the track dug down to the ice in a couple seconds...game over.

This seems like it would be the perfect track for these conditions. Will I have to do anything with the gearing and how hard is that to adjust? Normal riding speed is 10-14 mph because of the narrowness of the ditch and all the things you can hit.

Thanks in advance.
I ride ditches, corn fields, bean fields, etc. The ditches in eastern Iowa can fill from a foot to 15 feet, we always get high winds after a storm. some of these drifts are so big its scary, you come to the end of a "wave drift" looks like a big ocean wave, you crack the gas to pop the front up as high as you can get it then drop to the bottom, it can be a longggg ways down. The 1.25 use to be huge lug 10-12 years ago. Now for me anyways it isnt near big enough. I find my 137X1.25 trenching, sinking and no big launch. For trails its a great track. My 4 stroke is heavier and i need forward thrust. Im in the same boat as all of you, I want the 1.6 or 1.75, either would be a major upgrade. What sucks is I have a studded like new 141 1.6 cobra in the shed and my sled is a 137. Anyone that ditch bangs or rides fields, icy corners etc should run studs, they do a great job of protecting the lugs on the track. just my 2 cents.

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Old 06-17-2017, 08:40 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Join Date: Nov 2011
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Current Sled(s): 2012 Shift 136
Previous Sled(s): 2015 SBA 600 2014 phazer xtx
Location: East Central South Dakota
Favorite Riding Area: Powder Fields of ND
16-17 Mileage: 200
15-16 Mileage: 300
14-15 Mileage: 500
13-14 Mileage: 1500
Riding Since: 1991
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Thanks Dusty...you know what I am talking about! Exactly the same thing here. I had a 2015 assault with gripper skis and the 2.0 track. Never got stuck, never worried about it. Lost this sled this spring in the divorce, so trying to get the shift better equipped. One thing I REALLY like it about it never worrying about over heating...which in the past 3 years with the warm temps has become a real problem.

I think the spikes in the ICE are a nice compromise between full on studs and no studs.
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:39 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Current Sled(s): 2017 ZR 800 RR 137" ES LOL OR 2016 m8 ltd
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Originally Posted by Dusty P View Post
I ride ditches, corn fields, bean fields, etc. The ditches in eastern Iowa can fill from a foot to 15 feet, we always get high winds after a storm. some of these drifts are so big its scary, you come to the end of a "wave drift" looks like a big ocean wave, you crack the gas to pop the front up as high as you can get it then drop to the bottom, it can be a longggg ways down. The 1.25 use to be huge lug 10-12 years ago. Now for me anyways it isnt near big enough. I find my 137X1.25 trenching, sinking and no big launch. For trails its a great track. My 4 stroke is heavier and i need forward thrust. Im in the same boat as all of you, I want the 1.6 or 1.75, either would be a major upgrade. What sucks is I have a studded like new 141 1.6 cobra in the shed and my sled is a 137. Anyone that ditch bangs or rides fields, icy corners etc should run studs, they do a great job of protecting the lugs on the track. just my 2 cents.

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Pickup a 3" pitch driveshaft/drivers and put a big wheel kit on the rear and you should be able to tighten that track up. TKI was willing to hook me up with the stuff I needed. I'm not even sure if the big wheel kit is necessary as there seems to be a bunch of range available on my 137
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:47 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Pickup a 3" pitch driveshaft/drivers and put a big wheel kit on the rear and you should be able to tighten that track up. TKI was willing to hook me up with the stuff I needed. I'm not even sure if the big wheel kit is necessary as there seems to be a bunch of range available on my 137
Thank you very much. Is there any downfall to a 3" pitch or maybe its better? I dont understand why different pitches are used.

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Old 06-19-2017, 10:31 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Thank you very much. Is there any downfall to a 3" pitch or maybe its better? I dont understand why different pitches are used.

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I'm not entirely sure myself. Maybe the number of paddles on the ground at any given time or maybe some sort of advantage for gearing If you add or subtract a tooth from a 3" pitch it's a bigger jump than if you add or subtract a tooth from a 2.52 or a 2.86 but 2.86 is only like 1/8" smaller each window. If you go that route, you'll need a 8 tooth driver and that will gear down your sled just a touch. which should help with your launch that you're looking for. IIRC, you'd be going from a 2.86 x 9 tooth (25.74" circumference) to a 3.00 x 8 tooth (24" circ).

Going from a 137" to a 141" would only be around 2" of adjustment needed and then you got a little more slack to take up with the difference in circumference of the drivers. I know it can be done but I'm not certain if you need the big wheel kit and offset axle for the rear or not. I might try it late this fall if I get bored. I've got everything sitting on the shelf.

Last edited by sled208; 06-19-2017 at 10:35 AM.
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Old 06-20-2017, 10:21 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Thank you very much. Is there any downfall to a 3" pitch or maybe its better? I dont understand why different pitches are used.

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3" pitch is usually a 1 ply track, if it matters.
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Old 06-22-2017, 02:31 PM   #28 (permalink)
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It makes more sense to me now. Your mountain sleds tend to run a 3.00 pitch. This gives more room for a tall lug.

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