Leaking Base Gaskets! - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 02-20-2011, 09:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Leaking Base Gaskets!

Has anybody else had any trouble with Cometic's rubber coated (AFM) gaskets for a XCR? I decided to use them on my PP engine because I've heard good things about them. I've got almost 200 miles on the engine so far and the base gaskets have been seeping out just a little antifreeze ever since I put it together. I haven't had to add any coolant to it so the leak is very small but it just bugs me to see them leaking.

I thought maybe it was the front water rail leaking so I put a new gasket on it and re-sealed it. I also tried backing the torque off on the cylinder nuts and retorquing them just as an idea. I filled it back up with antifreeze and washed all the spilled stuff off with the hose today and went for a 15 minute ride. It looks like I still have a leak.

What are your guys' thoughts? I have 3 brand new regular base gaskets from Cometic I could try but if I'm going to take it all back apart again I want to do everything I can to stop the leak. Hopefully I can tell where it's leaking once I get it apart but does anybody have any suggestions? Should I try checking the flatness of the cases and cylinders? I kind of like the bead of silicone on the expensive OEM gaskets but I'm not sure the bead will still be there after I trim them to match the porting...
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Old 02-20-2011, 10:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Here is a few pictures. The first one is between the center and mag cylinders (center appears to be the worst of the 3). Second one is the mag side. Third picture is between the center and the pto cylinder. I'm still not sure why it looks like an oil/antifreeze mixture that's leaking.
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Old 02-20-2011, 10:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Not sure if it was the gaskets but I had issues until I used Polaris factory gaskets with the gasket sealant on one side.I dont bother with checking the torque either I tighten the base nuts until they make noise. Torque numbers are over rated on some items.
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Old 02-20-2011, 10:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I never thought much of the torque specs either. Now that it's leaking and I've asked around a little bit some people say if they are overtightened the surfaces become warped. I might see if I can get somebody at a local machine shop to check the cylinders for me since I am going to have it apart anyways.

I'm leaning towards the OEM gaskets with the sealant on them this time around if they will work with the porting. That's what was in it before and they didn't leak.

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Old 02-20-2011, 10:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Polaris Rider View Post
I never thought much of the torque specs either. Now that it's leaking and I've asked around a little bit some people say if they are overtightened the surfaces become warped. I might see if I can get somebody at a local machine shop to check the cylinders for me since I am going to have it apart anyways.

I'm leaning towards the OEM gaskets with the sealant on them this time around if they will work with the porting. That's what was in it before and they didn't leak.
Im not sure how youd warp the cylinder by tightening the base nuts to tight but anything is possable. Id tighten them as hard as you think you can without breaking the studs before I ripped it apart. Its takes alot of ass to get them tight when your working in tight places.
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Old 02-20-2011, 10:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I would clean up the rubber coated ones and the case/cylinders, paint on the gaskets a light coating of Permatex "ULTRA Grey" sealant.
Several of my engines have no base gaskets at all, but rather aluminum shims, they don't leak using the Ultra Grey sealant.
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Michiganstopcat View Post
Im not sure how youd warp the cylinder by tightening the base nuts to tight but anything is possable. Id tighten them as hard as you think you can without breaking the studs before I ripped it apart. Its takes alot of ass to get them tight when your working in tight places.
I tried snugging them up a little and they were pretty tight (yet still leaked).
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:10 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XCR1250 View Post
I would clean up the rubber coated ones and the case/cylinders, paint on the gaskets a light coating of Permatex "ULTRA Grey" sealant.
Several of my engines have no base gaskets at all, but rather aluminum shims, they don't leak using the Ultra Grey sealant.
I might give that a try. I've used the Ultra Grey to seal leaking transmission cases up before and it worked good. I'll probably still get new gaskets even if they are supposed to be re-useable, just because they were leaking.

Do you know if the OEM gaskets with the small bead of sealant can be trimmed without cutting off the sealant portion of the gasket?
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:13 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polaris Rider View Post
I might give that a try. I've used the Ultra Grey to seal leaking transmission cases up before and it worked good. I'll probably still get new gaskets even if they are supposed to be re-useable, just because they were leaking.

Do you know if the OEM gaskets with the small bead of sealant can be trimmed without cutting off the sealant portion of the gasket?
I believe you can do that.
Look at the rubber coated ones, if they still look good, I'd use them with sealant.
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:17 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I also asked Cometic about the leak just to see what their thoughts were and they didn't have any other recommendations other than see if I can tell where it was leaking from and trying a new set of gaskets. They normally put them together dry but I agree a little sealant might be all it needs.

When these things leak is it normally just coolant that leaks? I'm wondering if that oily antifreeze mix around the center cylinder could explain my slightly cooler temperatures on that cylinder. It's within 100 degrees of the other 2 but it's a thought!

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