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Old 03-11-2013, 04:24 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Jackshaft bearing replacement

Well I am pretty sure my Jackshaft bearing went on my 09 sno pro and and I wondering how much of a pain this is to replace?

Also, if anyone has some insturctions on a link somewhere or pointers to doing this that would be great.

Thanks,
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Old 03-11-2013, 04:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Well I am pretty sure my Jackshaft bearing went on my 09 sno pro and and I wondering how much of a pain this is to replace?

Also, if anyone has some insturctions on a link somewhere or pointers to doing this that would be great.

Thanks,

its a 20 minute project.

Remove gear, remove clutch, remove bolts holding bearing in, pull shaft out, knock old bearing off, install new bearing, put shaft back in and you are done.
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: Jackshaft bearing replacement

Do the bearings need to be pressed on?

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Old 03-11-2013, 09:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Do the bearings need to be pressed on?

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not really. they are self locking, just need to be seated nothing massive
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:20 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I just removed my jackshaft so I could get my trashed clutch side bearing off for replacement. It took me longer than 20 minutes, but it was easy.

My bearing is so bad that it crumbled apart and the inner race is stuck on there pretty good. I think I need to take it in to get pressed off....

I sure am glad the two J-shaft bearing threads got started. I didn't know they were so prone to failure... Had I known I would have replaced at the 1k mark. I'm now at 1650miles
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I just removed my jackshaft so I could get my trashed clutch side bearing off for replacement. It took me longer than 20 minutes, but it was easy.

My bearing is so bad that it crumbled apart and the inner race is stuck on there pretty good. I think I need to take it in to get pressed off....

I sure am glad the two J-shaft bearing threads got started. I didn't know they were so prone to failure... Had I known I would have replaced at the 1k mark. I'm now at 1650miles
greg mine came right off after heating it with a torch and letting it cool. Mine had 3000 miles on it and it was fine. My lower drive shaft bearings were bad though. I would change those out this summer as well.
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:30 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Greg i did the same thing as GregB did heat the inside bearing race But i use a air chisel(hammer) work your way around the bearing race keep turning jackshaft in the vice. You can also cut the race but make sure you dont go to deep. When you get it off use some emery cloth and clean up any burrs.
Make sure you put the bearing on the right way, the inside race that sticks out goes towards the secondary clutch. I used a press but i dont think it was needed it just meant to have a interference fit. Bruce
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:24 AM   #8 (permalink)
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The parts diagram shows a small flange/shoulder on the jackshaft that I presume the bearing butts up against. But I just don't see that on my jackshaft. Is it really there? Or is the diagram a bit incorrect? All I see is the inner race....

I want to be sure to not accidentally beat up the flange during the removal of the inner race...

Also, I called the two auto parts stores in town and they don't have the Timken part number, but do have the SKF brand and National Precision brand cross reference in stock. Any thoughts on either of those as an alternative to the Timken?

Sorry for the dumb questions and thanks for the help.
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:05 PM   #9 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=emtgreg;7923665]The parts diagram shows a small flange/shoulder on the jackshaft that I presume the bearing butts up against. But I just don't see that on my jackshaft. Is it really there? Or is the diagram a bit incorrect? All I see is the inner race....

I want to be sure to not accidentally beat up the flange during the removal of the inner race...

Also, I called the two auto parts stores in town and they don't have the Timken part number, but do have the SKF brand and National Precision brand cross reference in stock. Any thoughts on either of those as an alternative to the Timken?

Sorry for the dumb questions and thanks for the help.[/QUOT
Greg the bearing in the picture with the locking collar leaning againt it gets dicarded the inside of the bearing with the lip goes out towards the secondary clutch. The jackshaft has a very small witness line where the bearing buts up againt it. Then you put the shaft through the chassis make sure the gold anodized flange goes on the back side of the bearing first. Bruce

Last edited by gpxsrx; 03-21-2013 at 06:38 AM.
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Old 03-12-2013, 03:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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It's not a 20 minute job unless you have a press at home and are superman. Probalby a 2 hr job. I had to cut my bearing race to get it to come off. I was careful with my dremel not to touch the jackshaft and once it looked like I got pretty close a couple hits with a hammer and chisel and it broke in half and came off easy. I tried to heat up the new bearing a bit and left the jackshaft in the freezer to help get the new bearing on, but I still had to usea hammer and precisely persuade the new bearing to get into final position. Good luck.
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