2011 Rush & Pro-R Items to Check - Problems - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 11-23-2010, 03:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 2011 Rush & Pro-R Items to Check - Problems

I'm gonna put a pinned topic here for anyone who's bought a new 2011 Rush or Pro-R chassis sled, and notices any issues with it. Whether it be a hose that could use some re-routing or extra protection, a wire that looks questionable, or any other potential problem area ... let's make this the gathering point for everyone to check over their sled(s).
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Old 11-23-2010, 04:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default 600 Pro-R

Found the oil line leaving the oil tank rubbing on the cylinder head. Used a wire tie to more the oil line away from the cylinder to prevent overheating the oil line.

Found no grease in any of the rear suspension bushings, greased anything.
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Old 11-23-2010, 07:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Found the oil line leaving the oil tank rubbing on the cylinder head. Used a wire tie to more the oil line away from the cylinder to prevent overheating the oil line.

Found no grease in any of the rear suspension bushings, greased anything.
Post the dealers name please.
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Old 11-23-2010, 09:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Current Sled(s): 2014 800 Pro R Rush
Previous Sled(s): 2012 600Pro R SB, 2011 800, 09 600 SB, 07 D7, Mod 03 700 SKS
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Originally Posted by Bontz View Post
I'm gonna put a pinned topic here for anyone who's bought a new 2011 Rush or Pro-R chassis sled, and notices any issues with it. Whether it be a hose that could use some re-routing or extra protection, a wire that looks questionable, or any other potential problem area ... let's make this the gathering point for everyone to check over their sled(s).
Thanks for making this informative thread on Rush & Pro-RMK chassis sled issues.
--A few minor issues with my VERY High Quality 2011 Rush, engine Very Strong at low & mid range speeds on grass, high speeds???:
---Chain case low on oil.
--------I added 5 oz oil, oil capacity is 9 .0 oz, see page 80 of 600/800 Rush Owner's Manual. Polaris dealer should have checked chain case oil!!!
http://www.polarisindustries.com/en-...s-Manuals.aspx
---Oil hose from bottom of injection tank rubbing on brass 90* elbow on rear of head.
--------I pulled up the black protective conduit on the oil line that is filled with blue oil, no air bubles!!!, past the brass elbow on the head, & added a cable tie around the black conduit.
---Twice the Electronic-Revers "PERC" would not reverse the engine while at 2050 RPM.
--------Shut off the engine, Perc worked at 1850 rpm.
----------------Owner's Manual on page 71 states engine rpm to be below 4000 rpm, seams too high, miss-print?
---Track was running slightly to the right, Polaris dealer should have checked.
---------I adjusted track.
---Primary clutch clearance to belt excessive, at .032".
--------I do not plan to shim clutch spider to reduce belt clearance to .020" as this will throw clutch balance off.
----------Later this winter after 500 miles I plan to install SLP MTX primary clutch weights, add rivets as required?), SLP MTX or Poo 11 series clutch weights???. The SLP MTX weight will push the clutch's outer movable sheave in to reduce excessive belt clearance.
-------------- http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=17&pro ductID=85
--------I noticed that the new Rush primary clutch sheave faces do not have the old two angle inner face, now only one inner sheave face angle, This will reduce belt wear & increase performance, per a Polaris engineer in 2009. Also most likely the surface that the clutch weight's base rests on has been reduced by .015"???
---Skid's front arm was not greased, see Owner's Manual page106. Polaris dealer should have greased.
--------I greased with special (free $100 a tube) Mobile One Synthetic grease.
------------Do the "dry" oil lite bushings need to be lubricated with Teflon spray lubricant?????
----------------Owners Manual does not state to lubricate the skid's "Oil Light?" bushings????
--------Mark oil level in oil tank with a black marker, check oil usage for at least 3 trips.
------------Several Pro-R riders on SnoWest reported very little if any oil usage after a 55 mile trip!
If he did not mark the oil level it would be very hard to see if just a small amount of oil was used.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236474
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=235434
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From mountainhorse on SnoWest:
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=231090
Before you accept delivery of your new sled, Some things to check.
Page #16 includes Polaris Pre-delivery Sheet that Dealers use to set up sleds.
This new Pro-RMK is the highest quality Polaris that I have seen to date.
Most dealers out there are very conscientiousness about prepping the sled before delivery to the customer.
AND..In the heat of readying a lot of sleds and running the day to day aspects of the service department.... some things may get overlooked.
Since you have a huge investment in the sled and often rely on it to get you in/out of some pretty dangerous situations I recommend that...
BEFORE you accept delivery and pay them the final amount due. Inspect the sled with a fine tooth comb.
Check the body and chassis well... look for General fit and finish of all body panels, instruments, controls on the handlebars, bumpers, seat, body panel rubber straps.
---Get under the hood, actually under the side-panels on this sled, and check the exhaust spring install, how the pipe and can fit and other general items
---Check that the hood is centered and that the inlet on the airbox to the intake in the hood is centered and sealed.
---Check the belt deflection and belt side clearance (this is something that is often "off" on a new sled... especially the side clearance which is a dealer only kind of adjustment... don't let an excuse arise like the belt needs to break in first... especially if the gap is too large
---Start the sled and check that all lights work (head hi/low, tail/brake) and that the grip warmers come up to temp.
---Read the owners manual BEFORE going to the dealer and have them go thru the suspension adjustment procedure with you
---Before you go to the dealer...go to K-Mart/Wallmart etc and purchase a small 10 lb dumbbell so that you can check the track tension according to the manual... if it is off, have them adjust it. You will need this dumbbell as a "tool" to keep your track at the correct tension anyway.
---Start the sled again... support the rear of the sled and run the sled with the side panel off... watch the clutches for smooth operation and listen for any strange noises....let the track coast to a stop shut off the engine and check to see that the track is centered in the tunnel (equal space on both sides between the drop brackets) put the sled in reverse and check for smooth operation....
---Support the front of the sled off the floor and check the front end alignment as specified in the owners manual, page 100... take a tape measure with you.
---You can download the owners manual before you go at:
http://www.polarisindustries.com/en-...20lo%20res.pdf
---Then, have the shop re-torque the clutch bolt to 80 ft/lbs after this run as specified in most of the TSB's that Polaris has sent out regarding clutch install procedures.... this bolt should be re-torqued after the first ride as well.
---Also... before you go... have have the shop add the correct amount of break in oil to the fuel tank for you...do this after the final engine-running check and fill the tank with clean gas from a reputable station.
---A good dealer will not mind you going thru this procedure and will have already confirmed that the above items have been---checked and tended to before you even arrive.
---The time to do this is before you take delivery of the sled ... not after... Many of these items are considered "owner responsibility" after you take delivery... make sure your $11,000 investment in fun is up to par!!
---If something is "off" don't accept delivery/pay until the issue is remedied.
-------My 2 cents.
------------ENJOY YOUR NEW RIDE... The Pro Chassis is AWESOME!!
-----PS.. If you have already taken delivery of your sled... check this stuff anyway and go back to the dealer right away if you have any issues that appear.
The above was posted by mountainhorse on SnoWest
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If you can not view the many Excellent posts on SnowWest you may have to Register on SnoWest????
Have a SAFE year; Rich

Last edited by rich03sks700; 12-04-2010 at 04:52 PM.
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Old 11-24-2010, 06:43 AM   #5 (permalink)
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It would be great if the dealer's name is posted. This way it is a GREAT starting point at the dealer when we take delivery!
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Old 11-24-2010, 07:44 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Great write up Rich.

Do you have the link to post for the 800 Rush Pro R? i see the posted manual is for the RMK.
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Old 11-24-2010, 08:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rorischak View Post
Great write up Rich.

Do you have the link to post for the 800 Rush Pro R? i see the posted manual is for the RMK.
Go to this Polaris sight to get Parts & Owners Manuals::
http://www.polarisindustries.com/en-us/ourcompany/parts-manuals/Pages/Parts-Manuals.aspx

Then go to the 600 & 800 Rush owner's Manual:
http://www.polarisindustries.com/en-us/OurCompany/Parts-Manuals/PartsManuals/9922829r01.pdf

If your sled's oil injection clear hoses have air bubbles, not solid blue oil I, suggest to return the sled to dealer to properly purge oil injection pump!!!

"My" "opinion" is that the 10 gallons of gasoline with a quart of injection oil added and is injected into the upper area of the cylinder boost port there will be very little gas & oil that drifts down to lubricate the crankshaft???!!!!???
So make sure the oil pump has been properly purged of air, oil lines MUST be solid blue with blue oil or what ever color the injection oil is!!!!!
If not there is a very good possibility that the crankshaft & pistons will be damaged.
Usually the pistons will show signs of oil starvation quicker then the crankshaft!!!

Sounds like there are several 800 CFI-2 RMK's & 800 Rush's that have improper oil injection pump purging from factory???
If so Polaris & few very sloppy Polaris dealers MUST get their head out of their .......... !!!!!!!!!

Usually I do not post a dealers name unless it's 100 % positive.
But if my 2011 Rush's oil injection lines were not solid with blue oil & had air bubbles I would post his name on HCS, SnoWest & report dealer to the Polaris factory!!!!!!!!;
Safe Sledding; Rich

Last edited by rich03sks700; 12-04-2010 at 04:55 PM.
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Old 11-25-2010, 08:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Just ride the thing!
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Old 11-25-2010, 10:05 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by windsor96 View Post
Just ride the thing!

If you have a air lock in the oil injection you risk the chance of seizure, not to mention if it does not fail engine damage will occur.

Here are a few things to watch for.
-Weather stripping on hood for side pannel creased and does no longer stick to hood.
-Low chaincase oil.
-Make sure you run POLARIS BLUE OIL for breakin, some dealers will put in gold but you need to run blue for the first tank to properly seat the rings.
-Air locked oil injection.

I will post up if I find any others but thats all I can think of.
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Old 11-26-2010, 12:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frank rizzo View Post
If you have a air lock in the oil injection you risk the chance of seizure, not to mention if it does not fail engine damage will occur.

Here are a few things to watch for.
-Weather stripping on hood for side pannel creased and does no longer stick to hood.
-Low chaincase oil.
-Make sure you run POLARIS BLUE OIL for breakin, some dealers will put in gold but you need to run blue for the first tank to properly seat the rings.
-Air locked oil injection.

I will post up if I find any others but thats all I can think of.
Polaris has a team tip out on oil for the break in 0ne oil tank full and 1 pint in fuel tank using semi-syn polaris oil .
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