98 zr arms on a 1995 zrt 600 problem??

[sno_pro_500]

i put some 98 zr arms and spindles on my 1995 zrt 600 and now looking from a distance it looks to be camber in a little, did i use the wrong spindles, that were on the zr, looks like i need 1/4" longer bottom arm or so to look like other sleds, i put the shorter arm becouse i wanted to put 2 sled on my trailer. also my shocks are about 16.1/2 " long. thanks for any info

[limechild]

Im not 100% sure but if your ZRT spindles are aluminum then those are the ones you want to use. You will have to notch them so the loop on the a arms don't hit/rub. Do a search for AGLT. I know you aren't really doing the AGLT mod, but it might help you out.

LimeChild

[sno_pro_500]

the spindles are off the 98 500 zr and the cross peace dont touch the spindle. i will do a search for the mod , this weekend when i have more time to search, thanks

[tcat446]

This may help ya.

Upgrading Front Suspension on AWS4 sleds to AGLT - ArcticChat.com - Arctic Cat Forum

[sno_pro_500]

According to Brown's the 97' ZR uses the same as the 97 ZRT. Part #'s: 0703-424 R and 0703-425 L. These are the spindles I used and everything worked perfect. As long as they are the aluminum spindle from the AWS4 chassis. See photo for lower mounting whole difference. AWS4 is on the left side. Remember the ZL spindles are different also. Have to be ZR of ZRT.
Attached Thumbnails

[sno_pro_500]

i think i have the wrong spindles as i found this in the ag kit post , one fellow made his holes longer and weld a washer, and the pic above went with a diffrent spindle, thanks for the help.

[sno_pro_500]

The "A" arms are sand blasted after modification. The upper arms just have the zerk fittings added. The lower arms have a few changes. First, using a hacksaw, cut the two small welds that hold the sway bar link bracket. Grind the remaining weld off the tube and clean up the bracket. Next, measure the position of the bracket on your old arms, and MIG weld them on. This will allow you to reconnect the link from the original sway bar without having to make a new wider one. You also get to use any of the AC sway bars in existence from 7/16, 1/2, or 5/8". Next, file or grind the outer holes out toward the ends of the flattened tube. Grind them 1/4". This in effect makes the arm longer and gets rid of the positive camber problem. Next get four 3/8" ID flat washers and braze or TIG weld them on the outside of the flattened tube to reinforce the hole area so the hole does not tear out at the end. Also braze the inside 1/2 of the original hole closed. Clean it all up with a grinder and finally, drill out the new hole to clean up the ID. Now you should have a strong "A" arm with a 1/4" longer pivot length. I then added the zerk fittings to the inside pivot tube. Since the pivot tube is shorter than the original, you can cut or grind the axle separator tube shorter until the axle inserts fit correctly. I was luck in that my arms came with all the hardware, axle inserts, spreader tubes and some bolts. You will need to make a 7/16" ID spacer about 0.330 thick or use a few washers at the front of the "A" arm when bolting it in the bulkhead.

here was the post i read about grinding the a arm longer, and welding a washer,

[tcat446]

This is when I did my 96. Should be the same.

ZRT 800 AGLT - ArcticChat.com - Arctic Cat Forum

[sno_pro_500]

i think i will look into the arm control end to shim it up , to take out the bump steer

[tcat446]

Mine is Awesome !!