BMP Torsional Install - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 02-19-2012, 11:42 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default BMP Torsional Install

ok gents,

i'm finally getting around to doing my clutch today. I've got experience doing the older ZR i had and firecat. How much different is the secondary on these f sleds? I'm at 3600 miles and haven't had clutches off or apart yet so what i am looking for in terms of wear besides that bushing everyone talks about? Any quick tips or suggestions for dissassembly or install of the new kit besides using heat for the torx screws? how hard are these secondary's to take apart? The weights are already setup from previous owner so should be good.

I'm also installing a plowmans but i don't have the c to c tool. Also have boondocker and y pipe but not there yet....just want to start with clutching....any tip/tricks to get this done would be helpful.

Last edited by izey91; 02-19-2012 at 11:44 AM.
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Old 02-19-2012, 12:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Roller pins prob b a pain to get out but u only have to swap 1. Suggest changing all the rollers to black diamond rock rollers as the factory plastic ones where out u will see this on the rollers that have the pressure on them from the helix they will b very sloppy on the Pins. I do alot of clutches and the first thing I change is the rollers now. Ull never have to change the bdx rollers again.
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Old 02-19-2012, 12:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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thanks thats a good suggestion and i will look at getting those BD rock rollers. how hard is it to take apart the secondary? anything I should look for on primary? i understand there are no longer bushings in the weights that need to be replaced.
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Old 02-19-2012, 01:39 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Torsional swap is fairly straight forward. Instructions are on BMP's site if you don't already have a copy. Take your time with the 9 hex bolts. Just turn them a 1/4 turn at a time until they turn easy. They snap off easy. Heat is your friend. Don't forget to make sure that the sheaves are lined back up upon assembly or you will be out of balance.
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Old 02-19-2012, 02:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Make sure u have some sort of clutch compressor cause your stock orange spring has alot of pressure behind it don't just try to take out the screws with out holding it somehow or it's gonna make for a bad day when its hits you in the mouth
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Old 02-19-2012, 04:40 PM   #6 (permalink)
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What kind of improvements am I gonna notice? I honestly have done clutching on 2 of my sleds and only really noticed a difference on one of them (ZR500 with a d&d kit). I put an ODS kit on my F7 cuz everybody on here said to get one. Didn't notice any difference at all and frankly seemed like a waste of money...hoping this won't be the same deal.
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Old 02-19-2012, 04:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by izey91 View Post
What kind of improvements am I gonna notice? I honestly have done clutching on 2 of my sleds and only really noticed a difference on one of them (ZR500 with a d&d kit). I put an ODS kit on my F7 cuz everybody on here said to get one. Didn't notice any difference at all and frankly seemed like a waste of money...hoping this won't be the same deal.
Converted mine last season. The things I noticed immediatley.......

- Backshift was night and day better
- Loose snow performance rocks
- Fuel mileage improved since the sled now seems to "freewheel" much easier

You will notice the change and you will be impressed.

Are you only doing secondary work? Will the primary be untouched from stock?
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Old 02-19-2012, 06:31 PM   #8 (permalink)
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No i'm doing both primary and secondary. I have the full kit with the adjustable weights so I'll be doing the primary as well. Previous owner had it setup with 90ish grams of weight on same sled.
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Old 02-19-2012, 07:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by izey91 View Post
ok gents,

i'm finally getting around to doing my clutch today. I've got experience doing the older ZR i had and firecat. How much different is the secondary on these f sleds? I'm at 3600 miles and haven't had clutches off or apart yet so what i am looking for in terms of wear besides that bushing everyone talks about? Any quick tips or suggestions for dissassembly or install of the new kit besides using heat for the torx screws? how hard are these secondary's to take apart? The weights are already setup from previous owner so should be good.

I'm also installing a plowmans but i don't have the c to c tool. Also have boondocker and y pipe but not there yet....just want to start with clutching....any tip/tricks to get this done would be helpful.

Hey izey;

Congrats on pulling the trigger on what seems to be the Stage Two kit. I have the BMP stage two kit on mine and it really wakes the sled right up. From better acceleration to in your face backshifts you will like it.

I had dealer install mine so I watched him and knew what to do after the fact. As stated the torx screws need heat but not much. A propane torch will work and they come right off like butter.

The dealer had a piece of an old belt about 4 inches long that had clips on it that would hold the clutch sheaves in the open position making assembling the clutch a one man job.

The BMP kit contains clutch weights, blue spring, helix and secondary helix spring color yellow.

The rollers have 4000 miles on them and look great. Noticed no increase in mileage.

Hope this helps, Jim
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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10-11 Mileage: Lots
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can I use some clamps (rubber coated) to hold the sheaves together when i unscrew the torx bolts?
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