Cutting Primary Cups - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 03-05-2009, 05:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I always hear you guys talk about having the primary cups cut - What does this mean, why do you do it and how hard is it to do?
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Old 03-05-2009, 07:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If you find the paint warn off the outer edge of the spring it may be hanging up stoping your up shift. You can put in a friction shim to let the spring spin. If the spring can't spin when compressed it will want to grow catching the spider cup. Here is a few pictures and what to look for. Look for the dig marks from the spring. If you run a Ti spring when the paint is warn off it will stick to the aluminum and break.

I have been cutting them back to the brace and dropping in one .060 friction shim.

Last edited by DonoBBD; 10-13-2010 at 08:08 AM.
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Old 03-06-2009, 07:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Don, is the .060" friction shim an AC part? If so, what's the PN? If not, where can I get my hands on one?
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Old 03-08-2009, 03:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
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what about the other cup? on the cover
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Old 03-08-2009, 05:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Haven't touched the cover at all. It can be done if you want. Just open it to the casting rings you see on it. Just to the edge of the rings.

The frictions shims I have been running are comet shims and they need to be turned down to 2.06" to fit in.

Don.
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Old 01-12-2010, 06:25 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I thought I would dig this up again. I have a question on this. It makes sense to do, but will it cause the spring to slide towards one side or does it stay centered. Also what improvements will I see. Will RPMs go up? Why do you need a shim in there? Dono?
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Old 01-12-2010, 06:43 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
I thought I would dig this up again. I have a question on this. It makes sense to do, but will it cause the spring to slide towards one side or does it stay centered. Also what improvements will I see. Will RPMs go up? Why do you need a shim in there? Dono?[/b]
This one you see here was cut all the way in. If not cut all the way down there will be a shoulder for the spring to stay centered. Then drop in the frictions shims. I think thunder sports has them in stock again.

Heck I am running mine cut like picture posted with two thin shims and a D&D black primary spring on my little 600. The spring rate is 190-330. It doesn't hang up any more.

Don.

http://www.thunderproducts.com/glide_washer.htm
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Old 01-12-2010, 06:54 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Ok, so don't cut it all the way down, leaving a step for the spring to sit in. Do I need to cut it all the way out to the braces or I read only need to take off .080?? And the guide washer will just help it so it moves freer. Do I do the cover the same way? and a washer behide that too? thanks
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Old 01-12-2010, 09:21 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Don i like to cut those cups at a 10* angel. As on the newer clutchs 09-10 some of the spiders are casted thinner and you will go throw a little bit.
I cut both cups always makes a more freeer and consistent shift.
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Old 01-14-2010, 03:32 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Well I finally got my spider cups machined out, leaving a step to keep the spring centered. I just cut them out to the braces like Dono said (its about .060) and got the thunder product glide washers. No need to turn the washer down, it fit right in there on mine. Thanks Dono and everyone. Here are some pics!
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File Type: jpg spider_cup_2.jpg (39.0 KB, 62 views)
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