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Old 10-23-2010, 01:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question center crank bearings

need to change center bearings and seal, everyone says just take it to a shop and have ti done, i'm good with that but my brain does not work like that! i have to know HOW it's done. it's obviously it has to be done with a press, but how?
also i have seen many comments about having the crank "trued and welded" what exactly is this?
crank not "true" from factory or does it move over time?
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Old 10-23-2010, 02:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Couple $1000 in tools and your good to go on your own.
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File Type: jpg Bench_center.jpg (827.1 KB, 75 views)
File Type: jpg Elk, 9-21-2010 & Ross's shop 010.jpg (222.1 KB, 69 views)
File Type: jpg Elk, 9-21-2010 & Ross's shop 006.jpg (214.3 KB, 69 views)
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Old 10-23-2010, 03:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It's easy work for a person that does it everyday but a little difficult to clearly explain in writing. Lots of finess required, each crank design has it own idiosyncrasies to deal with. What specific crank do you have? If you send it to me I will document it with photos so you can see how it's done.
Of course it will have to be trued after re-assembly and may need to be welded depending on what crank it is and the intended use.
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Old 10-24-2010, 09:45 AM   #4 (permalink)
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the crank in question is not mine, it's one of my friends crank and it is out of an actic cat water craft (suzuki 440 i think) but that dosent matter it's same job

he paid $650 to have a polaris crank done 5 years ago for a sled we call that "the death machine" it's the sled we let the newbies ride, nethier the sled or the rider seem to return without sonething broken!

i paid $350 to have center seal done on a 72 panther 20 years ago

i'm a farm boy from the past who dont like to pay people to do stuff i can do myself
i have an arbor press,lathe,welder,and more than just a few days worth of knowlage

im just trying to figure out if with the number of toys i and my friends have if it would be worth getting the tools and knowlage needed to do the job in house and maybe even start a service

my buddy and i are over $1800 worth of crank service already and
nethier he or i show any signs of giving up on abusing power equipment or ourselvs for a long time

who sells the tools?
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Old 10-24-2010, 09:55 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Crankshaft Rebuilding

RV Service Tools Crankshaft Rebuilding Tools. RV Service Tools specializes in crankshaft rebuilding tools and had everything you need to rebuild the crankshaft. CLICK HERE for RV Service Tools Crankshaft Rebuilding Guide.


Order by: Select Default Product Name SKU Price Latest Products Display # 5 10 15 20 25 30 50

Results 1 - 20 of 24
NameSKUPriceThumbnail ImageDescription Bearing Knife 0-4 1/4"900713$85.50 Bearing Knife - Bearing separator 0 - 4 1/4". Made in USA.Product DetailsBearing Knife 0-2 1/4"900712$39.95 Bearing Knife - Bearing separator 0 - 2 1/4". Made in USA.Product DetailsBasic Jig Kit710300$650.00 Basic Jig Kit - This kit contains the basic components needed to split and accurately rebuild two-stroke crankshafts. The universal center throw alignment jig can be set at either 180 deg. (for twin cranks) or at 120 deg. (for triple cranks). The toolmakeProduct DetailsArctic Catl Crankshaft Rebuild Kit710600$1 250.00 Universal Rebuild Kit - For dissasembling and assembling Arctic Cat crankshaftsProduct DetailsPolaris ATV rebuild kit710200$315.00 Crankshaft Rebuild Kit - All Components needed to disassemble and assemble Polaris ATV crankshaft (Kit 8710000 recommended for Polaris Snowmobile and PWC dealers).Product DetailsPolaris PWC Crankshaft Rebuild Kit710100$1 150.00 Crankshaft Rebuild Kit - For dissasembling and assembling Polaris PWC crankshaftsProduct DetailsPolaris Crankshaft Rebuild Kit710000$1 745.00 Crankshaft Rebuild Kit - For dissasembling and assembling Polaris crankshaftsProduct DetailsBombardier Crankshaft Rebuild Kit710700$1 350.00 Crankshaft Rebuild Kit - For dissasembling and assembling Bombardier crankshaftsProduct DetailsSea-Door Crankshaft Rebuild Kit710500$1 260.00 Crankshaft Rebuild Kit - For dissasembling and assembling Sea-Doo crankshaftsProduct DetailsUniversal Crankshaft Rebuild Kit710400$2 050.00 Universal Rebuild Kit - For dissasembling and assembling most crankshaftsProduct Details20 mm. top pl. & bush. set711020$68.75 Top Plate and Bushing Sets - These are the only parts that need to be changed on the alignment fixture.Product Details22 mm. Top Pl. & Bush. set711022$68.75 Top Plate and Bushing sets. These are the only items that need to be changed on the alignment fixture.Product Details24 mm. Top Pl. & Bush. set711024$68.75 Top Plate and Bushing sets. These are the only items that need to be changed on the alignment fixture.Product Details25 mm Top Pl. & Bush. set711025$68.75 Top Plate and Bushing Sets - These are the only parts that need to be changed on the alignment fixture.Product Details26 mm. Top Pl. & Bush. set711026$68.75 Top Plate and Bushing sets. These are the only items that need to be changed on the alignment fixture.Product Details27 mm. Top Pl. & Bush. set711027$68.75 Top Plate and Bushing sets. These are the only items that need to be changed on the alignment fixture.Product Details28 Top Pl. and Bush. set711028$68.75 Top Plate and Bushing Sets - These are the only parts that need to be changed on the alignment fixture.Product Details.853 Top Pl.& Bush. set711853$68.75 Top Plate and Bushing Sets - These are the only parts that need to be changed on the alignment fixture.Product Details.956 Top Pl. & Bushing set711956$68.75 Top Plate and Bushing Sets - These are the only parts that need to be changed on the alignment fixture.Product DetailsSpecial Top Pl. & Bush. set711999$68.75 Top Plate and Bushing Sets - These are the only parts that need to be changed on the alignment fixture.Product Details


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Old 10-24-2010, 10:02 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Crankshaft Rebuilding Guide To print this guide, use the print icons to the above right.
For better print quality and to keep this guide handy, we suggest you click on the Cover Image to the left to save the RV Service Tools Crankshaft Rebuilding Guide as a printable PDF to your hard drive.





CRANKSHAFT IDENTIFICATION



RV SERVICE TOOLS CRANKSHIFT REBUILDING TOOLS:

RV SERVICE TOOLS, LLC CRANKSHAFT REBUILD KIT

O) 715035 - Center Section Tool


P) 715050 - Large Push Ram


R) 715015 - Center Point (for 715010 - Alignment Fixture)

S) 715075 - Pushpin 1 3/4 x 9/16
NOTE: Not all tools in all kits
RV Service Tools, LLC
783 County Road 42
Victor, NY 14564
Ph. 585-742-1790
Fax 585-742-3938
Email: rvservicetools@frontiernet.net This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
FOR ARCTIC CAT AND YAMAHA TYPE CRANKS:
  1. Remove outer bearings
  2. Position on Fixture F
  3. With push pin J remove connecting rod pin from outer throw.
  1. Place crankshaft on support plates B.
  2. With push pin J remove inner throw.
  1. Place inner throw on Fixture F.
  2. With push pin J remove outer throw.
NOTE: One rod pin must be removed for indexing during reassembly.
  1. Replace inner bearings
  2. Select and assemble proper Top Plate and Bushing.
  3. Place on Fixture A. (Shim back of throw for stability, if necessary.)
  4. Carefully press on other inner throw.
  1. Assemble connecting rod and bearing on pin.
  2. Lower press onto outer throw to hold in place align the throws using the square N
  3. Slowly press the throw onto the pin being careful not to shear the hole.
  4. Press the rod pin into the opposite inner throw
NOTE: Make sure the support plate B is under the pin.
and repeat steps 12, 13, and 14.
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURES:
Force bearing splitter behind outer race as shown
NOTE: If inner race has turned on the shaft, it may be necessary to cut the race with a torch or cut off wheel.

Support bearing as shown and press shaft away from the bearing. Note the placement of the bearing spacer and bearing with shaft locating ring. Remove all outer bearings.
CAUTION:
Care must be taken to keep the connecting rods free and the shaft from hitting the floor.
During the disassembly, be sure to note the position of all bearing anti-rotation pins and locating circlips. Also note the spacer between the PTO end bearings and positioning of the center section oil pump drive gear.

Position crankshaft onto support plates. Remove roll pin (A), if so equipped, or position it between support plates.


Remove PTO and mag end crank wheels using the support blocks E or F and push pin J.
NOTE: Be sure to mark the inner crank wheel from which the PTO end was removed.


Separate one inner throw from the center section using the support plates B and the center section tool O as shown.
NOTE: The legs of the center section tool must be centered on the bottom crank wheel (A).


Position the center seal splitter T with ring as shown (A). Align the other tool half and secure halves with allen head bolts.
Using the large push pin P press the inner crank wheel away from the center section.
Remove the inner bearing with the bearing splitter.


Using the V-block and push pin J remove the lower connecting rod pin. One rod pin must be removed for proper indexing during assembly.
ASSEMBLY PROCEDURES:
CAUTION:
Clean and lubricate all sliding surfaces before pressing to ease assembly and prevent galling.
Select the proper top plate and bushing. On twin cylinder shafts, the bushing is positioned as shown at (A), 180 from the top plate. Position the throw onto the bushing. Be sure the crank center (B) is positioned on the fixture center (C).

Install inner bearings using fixture. Use a suitable sleeve and press on the inner race only to prevent bearing damage. DO NOT press on the outer race.
NOTE: Picture shows bottom bushing (A) positioned for 3-cylinder crank at 120 from top plate.

Install center section onto crank wheel. Press until center section bottoms on inner race of bearing.

Position rod pin from remaining crank wheel into top plate (A) of Fixture A as shown. Top plates are interchangeable to fit different diameters of rod pins. The top plate of the fixture and the bushing (B) in the bottom of the fixture will keep connecting rod pins 180 apart. For 3-cylinder assembly, the bushing is positioned at 120. Press until the inner bearing bottoms on the center section.

Three Cylinder
After assembling both three cylinder center sections, press on the center section tool O until the tool leg (A) bottoms on the lower rod pin (B). Use square N to align wheels.
Position the PTO end rod pin and push until it bottoms on the support plate B.
NOTE: Keep the support plate tight against the outer race of the bearing.
Lubricate and install rod bearing and connecting rod onto rod pin. Place the proper throw onto the rod pin. Lower the press to hold the assembly. Check and align the throw using the square N. Slowly press the throiw until the ram P bottoms on the rod pin.
NOTE: The PTO end is assembled onto the long pin.
CAUTION:
Be sure support plate is under rod pin.
IMPORTANT!
On some engines the PTO pin will be the same length as the mag pin. When pressing this PTO throw onto a shorter pin, the ram P will not bottom on the pin. The following procedure must be used to obtain the proper rod bearing cage clearance.

Insert a .016 feeler gauge between the lower rod bearing cage and the inner throw. Slowly press the ouetr throw until it makes contact with the rod bearing cage. Remove the feeler gauge and check the clearance.
Clearance:
.012:-.016" (.30-.40 mm)
Press outer bearings as shown, using support plates B.
Press only on inner race to prevent bearing damage. To ease assembly, slowly and evenly heat bearings on a hot plate or in an oven to approximately 250F and drop them into position.
CAUTION:
To prevent damage to bearing, do not exceed 300F when heating.
After the crankshaft is assembled, thoroughly clean and lubricate all parts. Inspect and true the crankshaft.
CRANKSHAFT TRUING
Lubricate the bearings and clamp the crankshaft securely in the holding fixture. On three cylinder crankshafts, straighten one of the ends (Magneto or PTO) and then straighten the center section. Place the center section in the fixtuyre and then straighten the remaining end.
NOTE: The rod pin position in relation to the dial indicator postion tells you what action is required to straighten the shaft.
To correct this situation, squeeze the crankshaft at point A.
To correct this situation it is necessary to spread the crankshaft at point A. Runout of the crank should be as close to zero as possible.

Maximum Allowable Runout
0.004" (.1 mm)






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Old 10-24-2010, 10:17 AM   #7 (permalink)
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The above 2 posts ought to give you an idea what you'll be gettiing into should you decide to attempt this for yourself and as a service for others. Some Tech school on crankshaft rebuilding would be advisable.
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Old 10-24-2010, 11:29 AM   #8 (permalink)
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well now i see why it aint cheep, thats some expen$$ive tooling
going to have to think about it
as for the true and weld thing-after a rebuild i can understand it, but is it something to do to a virgin crank?
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Old 10-24-2010, 12:11 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cat rat View Post
well now i see why it aint cheep, thats some expen$$ive tooling
going to have to think about it
as for the true and weld thing-after a rebuild i can understand it, but is it something to do to a virgin crank?
If your sled is prone to blowing belts then welding is a good idea.
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Old 10-24-2010, 08:04 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cat rat View Post
well now i see why it aint cheep, thats some expen$$ive tooling
going to have to think about it
as for the true and weld thing-after a rebuild i can understand it, but is it something to do to a virgin crank?
It's a good idea to check a new crank for peace of mind, they can be off.
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