need help with drive shaft bearing - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 12-14-2008, 07:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Well me and my dad have a 2000 arctic cat Zr700 that is our back up machine. Last year the machine sat most of the year and got about 50 - 100 miles on it. This year I just took her for a pin and think she needs a drive shaft bearing. If you crack on her hard she will make a really loud clunking noise, also does it if you brake hard. lots of vibration in foot area If you go easy on her she will slowly go faster and faster without a problem. (hit 100mph tonight)

If it is the drive shaft bearing i plan on replacing it myself. I have never done it on a Zr so i was hoping someone could walk me through the process.

Thanks,
Myles
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Old 12-14-2008, 08:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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pull shaft out, undo the locking collar, pound bearing off, install new bearing and locking collar, reinstall shaft. You will probbly need some wd 40 and a torch to get the bearing off on the speed side. the chain case side will usually fall right off.
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Old 12-14-2008, 08:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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pull shaft out, undo the locking collar, pound bearing off, install new bearing and locking collar, reinstall shaft. You will probbly need some wd 40 and a torch to get the bearing off on the speed side. the chain case side will usually fall right off.[/b]

Thanks Greg,

I am assuming i need to remove the rear skid or no?

How many bearings are down there?
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Old 12-14-2008, 09:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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remove skid and track. one bearing on each side. clutch side has the lock collar. you need the 2 bearings, they can be found much cheaper at lawn+garden type store but the chaincase side one has an oring that is only there if you get the bearing from AC. Its pretty common to just use the generic bearing and silicone. works great.
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Old 12-14-2008, 11:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
remove skid and track. one bearing on each side. clutch side has the lock collar. you need the 2 bearings, they can be found much cheaper at lawn+garden type store but the chaincase side one has an oring that is only there if you get the bearing from AC. Its pretty common to just use the generic bearing and silicone. works great.[/b]

they are a lot cheaper.. I think they are the same size as most commerical ztr deck spindles
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Old 12-14-2008, 11:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Does the speedo work?

How much does the track sag?

I think the sound is the track slipping off the cog wheel.
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Old 12-15-2008, 12:04 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Does the speedo work?

How much does the track sag?

I think the sound is the track slipping off the cog wheel.[/b]

yeah speedo works fine,

track doesn't sag that much, seems normal

that exactly is the cog wheel (the two plastic drive thingys) haha
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Old 12-15-2008, 10:38 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Yea the two black plastic wheels. You have bearings on both sides of the shaft and one of the bearings could be gone. The speedo key almost always goes first though. It is always a good idea to replace the bearings, but you will need to drop the whole skid. Make sure the track is to spec, because it is only two bolts to tighten. Also make sure your belt is good. If it was summertime, i would just drop the whole skid and go through it.
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Old 12-15-2008, 01:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yea the two black plastic wheels. You have bearings on both sides of the shaft and one of the bearings could be gone. The speedo key almost always goes first though. It is always a good idea to replace the bearings, but you will need to drop the whole skid. Make sure the track is to spec, because it is only two bolts to tighten. Also make sure your belt is good. If it was summertime, i would just drop the whole skid and go through it.[/b]

Thanks for your reply,
I found it was strange that the speedo was still working, on my F7 it quite at the same time the bearing gave out. It has a brand new belt from Birch point cats so its not the problem. It rained all day yesterday and over night and pretty much no snow left so i might just go ahead and tear it all apart. Change the clog wheels and the bearings.

Any website that will show me how to remove the drive shaft properly?
Thanks
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Old 12-15-2008, 03:54 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I just replaced all my bearings I ordered from Babbiitts Online but this site kenssports.com is pretty cheap as well.. My lower chain case bearing went out which is rare usually it is the speedo side.. It was clunking when I found out it went out It was also skipping on the cogs even though the track tension was tight.. When you hit the gas it pulled on the chain which pulled the bearing up and then caused the cog or chain to slip I forgot which one.. But I replaced all four bearings this way you know that they are all new.. Yes you do need to lower the rear skid but if you loosen the track tensioners completly it is not that bad taking it out and putting it back in.The chaincse side are very easy to replace all there is, is a plate with three bolts that holds the bearings in place on the clutch side there is a locking collar with a set screw.. you unloosen the set screw and hit the collar with a punch to break it loose.. The bearings may be rusted onto the shaft on this side, so you may need a little force to get the bearings off the shaft, just try whacking it with a hammer.. The whole job beginning to end all four bearings should take about 2 hours working slow.. I would personally change all four bearings and the plates and collars.. all the parts total should cost around $100.00-$125.00.. Its worth it in my opinion, and you really should grease the clutch side upper and lower bearing every 300 miles they take alot of abuse and friction.. The lower Bearing in my opinion is a bad design because there is not much protecting the bearing from the elements and washes the grease out very easily.. I have never heard of any other sleds that burn out the bearings as fast as a ZR ....Good Luck
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