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#2 (permalink) | |
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Advanced Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 84
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#3 (permalink) |
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Advanced Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 50
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if its got the big pipe already.your not gona get much more hp than that.i used to empty out the can and weld it back together.boy that used to turn her on,and oh what a sound.maybe you can get a aftermarket can for it.some times i ran airplane fuel in her what a differance.110 octange leaded fuel runs cool with lots of kick.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Super Advanced Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,575
Location: Minnesota
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I have a set of FAST F III trail pipes for a 92 MACH I hanging in the garage on the wall with the aftermuffler, Willing to sell for the right price, they are like brand new and I have the Dyno sheets for them also so you can get the jetting right... They do make more HP than the FAT BOY pipe from FAST I have one of those also I would get rid of, with a CAN-CAN aftermuffler and all set up for an EGT, I also have a set of KN's for that motor and all the jetting specs to go along with it..and 40 mm carbs and a set of 44's also to go with the twin pipes.. I have 3 of these sleds laying in the barn for other chassis parts as well
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JIMMER (Vice President and Groomer operator) Trail Hawks Snowmobile Club Eveleth, MN |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Super Advanced Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 404
Current Sled(s): 02 mxz 700, 05 mxz 550f
Previous Sled(s): Polaris,Skiroule
Location: Twin Cities,Minn
Favorite Riding Area: Bayfield,Wisc.
10-11 Mileage: 200 mi
Age: 59
Riding Since: 60's
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got a ignition module for a 93/94 mach 1 w/670
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#6 (permalink) |
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Super Advanced Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,575
Location: Minnesota
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No 670 parts, I only have 617 parts, the pipes would work on a 670 tho according to FAST
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JIMMER (Vice President and Groomer operator) Trail Hawks Snowmobile Club Eveleth, MN |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 13
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Gut the muffler, skin the pipe, toss the airbox and shave the heads. I had a 92 Mach 1 and it was awesome for its day. I remember adding Ekholm skiis as well, and doing all the above mods and I had no problems. The biggest thing with this machine is weight. Cut as much as you can down. About shaving the heads, Be careful. I went too far and had throw in octane boost to keep it going (as well as 94 octane gas). Still, after a bit of clutch work, it was very easy to hit 160kmph.
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Newbie
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 9
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#10 (permalink) |
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Advanced Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 80
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583, 617, 670, all rotary valve Rotax motors. I got rid of the airbox on my Mach 1. I was rewarded with the wail of a sick moose and lost 20MPH on top end. I went back, put the box back on and went what I was used to, right near 100MPH with a 583. Some things are engineered right from the start and should not be messed with. That's one of em. So now when the "...well I took mine off and went 50MPH faster..." threads follow, I can say that I waxed the dogschitt out of the same sled I had that was equipped with pod filters, 240 studs to my 144, and some other "secret" BS. It wasn't even a race. 1 more time, "My belt is bad..." and it was the same, except this time I was waving my left hand as to say "C'mon, get up here!" which really pissed him off.
All of that is just to remind us of what those things were and to listen to the weight advice. Most rotary Rotax motors benefit from good compression, well thought rotary valve timing, less wt, and RPMs under 8K. Maximize the TQ output and put some new sleds to shame. twin pipes on 583s and 617s generally were for all out race apps and caused a really narrow powerband. Some expert tuners made em work in trial sleds but it wasn't the norm. All noise, no speed.
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