1997 xlt touring 2 up bogging down - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 09-16-2012, 01:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 1997 xlt touring 2 up bogging down

Well, I have cleaned the carbs, changed to a different used fuel pump checked needle adjustment etc.

The sled starts like a bit#$ it bogs when you gun it, unless you feather the throttle, if you feather the throttle machine tops out at 40 or so. I have put new gas in tank, removed old gas first of course. Blew out the old filter, nothing in it, cleaned to carbs, changed to two different tripple fuel pumps. Im running out of options? Now the idle has jumped to 4 k and I dont even know what I did, Im thinking its got a airleak, by the way I sprayed starting fuild all over the boots and crank seal I got nothing.

I also have checked compression, 120 all three cylinders, the top end bog isnt really bad it just stops at 40 like its topped out.

After plug reading the middle cylinder shows signs of lean well the two other are just right maybe even rich.

could wrong adjustment of choke levers cause this?
what should be stock in my carbs for jets?
should I do a leak down test?
bad stator, bad cdi?
Bad timing?

Any ideas?
I guess it could even be running to rich?
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Old 09-18-2012, 08:29 AM   #2 (permalink)
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check your clutches. the xlt doesn't make much power at clutch engagement. it could have a broken drive/driven sping,worn belt,bad or worn out rollers,weights,etc. also if the clutches check out replace all three plug caps/ends you may have one or two with a bad resistor in it? this gets over looked alot. they are cheap $3-5 each maybe a little cheaper depending on where you get them. also did you prsure check the needle/seats when you cleaned the carbs ? this is a common problem on these. if they are leaking by it would start hard as fuel has leaked into the crank while sled is sitting. and would run like shit until it cleans itself out. hope this helps.
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Old 09-18-2012, 09:01 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Whats it do when run on a track stand? Like said...could be clutch issues. Hows belt deflection look?
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Old 09-19-2012, 12:37 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Well it was misting gas out of the carbs due to incorrect choke cable setting now the engine bogs very bad on take off, before the clutch even engages it bogs, the airbox is curretnly off for all this testing but ive done everything

new fuel pump
cleaned carbs
no vaccum leaks, right out of the hole the thing bogs and it even bogs at a stand still, this is being tested on grass
It bogs to bad for me to think its clutching even fact being it bogs before the clutch even engages I have another set of tripple coils around here(my garage) they I will switch tomorrow and try to install.

I will also check the exhaust pipe for obstruction but as of current Im toatly lost..
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Old 09-19-2012, 12:56 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I am honestly worried my crank is out of sync/ phase do you guys know of anyway to check it?
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Old 09-19-2012, 06:55 AM   #6 (permalink)
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What I do is attach a piece of welding rod to the crankcase to use as a pointer, point it at the front clutch.
Remove all spark plugs.
Then I use a dial micrometer down the spark plug hole of each cylinder and make a pen mark on the clutch where the pointer is 5 thou down on both sides of TDC. You can also use a piston stop kind of TDC finder. Repeat for all cylinders.I like to write the cylinder number below the TDC marks so I know which one is at TDC.
Then I put the plugs back in and start the engine. Using a timing light, I check that the TDC marks line up with each other when the engine is running.
You can also use a measuring tape to verify that the distance between the TDC marks of all cylinders is the same but it's hard to get an accurate reading that way.

Last edited by baldur; 09-19-2012 at 07:08 AM.
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:31 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by northstarrick View Post
check your clutches. The xlt doesn't make much power at clutch engagement. It could have a broken drive/driven sping,worn belt,bad or worn out rollers,weights,etc. Also if the clutches check out replace all three plug caps/ends you may have one or two with a bad resistor in it? This gets over looked alot. They are cheap $3-5 each maybe a little cheaper depending on where you get them. Also did you prsure check the needle/seats when you cleaned the carbs ? This is a common problem on these. If they are leaking by it would start hard as fuel has leaked into the crank while sled is sitting. And would run like shit until it cleans itself out. Hope this helps.

x10
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:37 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baldur View Post
What I do is attach a piece of welding rod to the crankcase to use as a pointer, point it at the front clutch.
Remove all spark plugs.
Then I use a dial micrometer down the spark plug hole of each cylinder and make a pen mark on the clutch where the pointer is 5 thou down on both sides of TDC. You can also use a piston stop kind of TDC finder. Repeat for all cylinders.I like to write the cylinder number below the TDC marks so I know which one is at TDC.
Then I put the plugs back in and start the engine. Using a timing light, I check that the TDC marks line up with each other when the engine is running.
You can also use a measuring tape to verify that the distance between the TDC marks of all cylinders is the same but it's hard to get an accurate reading that way.

Use a degree wheel mounted to the clutch, always locate TDC with a dial indicator in the mag cylinder first, then go .100" past TDC on the indicator and zero your degree wheel, next the center cylinder, find TDC and go .100" past TDC, should see 120 degree difference on the degree wheel, repeat on PTO side same way.

The .100" past TDC removes any wear/slop in the bearings to get a more accurate reading.
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Old 09-19-2012, 02:21 PM   #9 (permalink)
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If nothing else checks out its possible you might even have a broken piston skirt or cracked ones.
Be sure your carbs are in sync.
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:09 PM   #10 (permalink)
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checked everything but crank phase.... Nothing yet..
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