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Old 11-24-2009, 06:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I am in the process of installing a new 133.5 track on my '94 Polaris Indy Classic Touring. I was wondering what is the correct way to set the track tension. I know the adjusters at the back is for this but how do you know what it correct and not to tight or to loose.
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Old 11-24-2009, 06:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
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loosener out a good bit. take it out into the snow in a little loose stuff or anywhere you get good traction, and pin her WOT just too see if the drive wheels spin inside the track (when this happens they are "Ratcheting") . If they doo good. Then tighted the adjusters in ONE turn and see if it ratchets, keep doing that till it stops ratcheting and its perfect.

The looser the better unless you have studs.
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Old 11-24-2009, 11:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Polaris's recommendation is hanging weight from the track to get a proper amount of measured sag. If memory is correct, 10lbs, 16" from the rear looking for 3/4" of sag difference from no weight.
Most guys just leave it hang about an inch or so in the center and call it good. Adjsuter bolts will set tension as well as tracking. Look at the track while spinning slowly on the stand throught he windows at teh slides and make sure it is tracking straight. Improper hyfax wear and track wear can result from running the track off track/crooked.
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Old 11-25-2009, 06:17 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Yep, after she stops ratcheting, one or two turns on the tensioner and call it good.
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Old 11-25-2009, 06:40 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Yep, after she stops ratcheting, one or two turns on the tensioner and call it good.[/b]
Yeah we have tried poo specs and Cat specs, both were waay too singin tight for me lol, my friends ZRT was at AC specs and he melted his hyFAX so bad it was stuck to the clips. And there was 5 inches of powder out.
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Old 11-25-2009, 06:50 AM   #6 (permalink)
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burned em up huh? Loose is good. I've tried em tight for clearance issues, I'd rather run em loose.
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Old 11-25-2009, 06:57 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Well my friend with the ZRT has a parts and shop manual that are his testiment from god himself lol And he would not loosen them no matter what i seid, untill he melted 3 sets of hyfax on one year.

I swear to god you can loose up to 3 sled lengths on 1/8th mile from running the track factory spec, or evan a bit looser, Right on the edge of ratchetting is where i will always run mine. Same as the chain tension, altho you need to be carefull and not go crazy with it.
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Old 11-25-2009, 09:36 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Well my friend with the ZRT has a parts and shop manual that are his testiment from god himself lol And he would not loosen them no matter what i seid, untill he melted 3 sets of hyfax on one year.

I swear to god you can loose up to 3 sled lengths on 1/8th mile from running the track factory spec, or evan a bit looser, Right on the edge of ratchetting is where i will always run mine. Same as the chain tension, altho you need to be carefull and not go crazy with it.[/b]

Hey All,

I agree that most sleds will benefit from loosening the track. All three of my mid 90's Polaris's are just at the rachet point and all is well!

HOWEVER:

My buddy has an 03 F7 Firecat with the 13.5" track. Fast nice sled. He rebuilt his skid last winter and asked me how to set the track tension to which I replied as above. Within 200 miles he broke out a couple of windows on the track from the front of the rails catching on the track windows and ruining the front rail bumper/guides. Obviously there were a lot of "subtle" suggestions that the track tension was the culprit and I felt pretty bad. I did some research and found this to be a problem with this model. Fixes include a front idler wheel kit (SLP and others), tightening the front limiter strap, and tightening the track. Unfortunately my buddy is a "stock only" kind of guy so adding the wheel kit was out of the question and tightening the front limiter strap took away the cool look of the skis in the air under power in powder, so he had to tighten the track and take the hit in performance. Still a bit of an uneasy subject between him and me after ~$500.00 was spent getting him back on the trail. Never mind the broken track had close to 5K miles on it......

Moral: Just be careful when suggesting this to others. Make sure you point out potential areas of concern.....

Good Luck!

Steve

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Old 11-25-2009, 10:16 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Hey All,

I agree that most sleds will benefit from loosening the track. All three of my mid 90's Polaris's are just at the rachet point and all is well!

HOWEVER:

My buddy has an 03 F7 Firecat with the 13.5" track. Fast nice sled. He rebuilt his skid last winter and asked me how to set the track tension to which I replied as above. Within 200 miles he broke out a couple of windows on the track from the front of the rails catching on the track windows and ruining the front rail bumper/guides. Obviously there were a lot of "subtle" suggestions that the track tension was the culprit and I felt pretty bad. I did some research and found this to be a problem with this model. Fixes include a front idler wheel kit (SLP and others), tightening the front limiter strap, and tightening the track. Unfortunately my buddy is a "stock only" kind of guy so adding the wheel kit was out of the question and tightening the front limiter strap took away the cool look of the skis in the air under power in powder, so he had to tighten the track and take the hit in performance. Still a bit of an uneasy subject between him and me after ~$500.00 was spent getting him back on the trail. Never mind the broken track had close to 5K miles on it......

Moral: Just be careful when suggesting this to others. Make sure you point out potential areas of concern.....

Good Luck!

Steve

[/b]
These are our experience's with this particular sled! Wouldn't suggest this on any other maker or model.
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Old 11-25-2009, 11:17 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks for the help guys
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