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Old 11-30-2008, 07:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I am rebuilding my buddys 2000 550 SS. Burned down the pto side. The cyl. was not scored to bad and I am getting both cyl. bored out .010. What jetting changes do I need to make if any? Thanks
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Old 11-30-2008, 10:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Jetting should be fine. Did you find out the cause of the burn down? Thats usually caused by a bad PTO side crank seal. It sucks air around the seal and leans that cylinder out.
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Old 12-04-2008, 06:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Does anyone know the piston to cyl gap spec, and also the ring end gap specs?
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Old 12-04-2008, 08:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Does anyone know the piston to cyl gap spec, and also the ring end gap specs?[/b]
I hope you read "Gearhd6`s post". There are two reasons why it would have burned down: Crank seal failure and carburation(froze up, settings wrong, intake boot cracked, air filter shot and sucked snow in). If I were you, I`d spend the $80 on a complete gasket set(includes crank seals) or jusy buy the crank seals and a base gasket and start at the bottom. Its cheap insurance if you don`t have a leakdown tester. Every sled I buy, no matter how good it runs, the first thing I do is pull the engine and put new crank seals in it. Gives a guy a chance to maybe catch a bearing that is on its last leg. You`d hate to spend the money on the top end and have it go, just because it was the crank seals in the first place.
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Old 12-04-2008, 09:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I am doing the top end and the crank seals. I like to do things right once, than wrong twice.
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Old 12-05-2008, 05:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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ok, I foung ring gap, .010-.035" But can anyone help me with the piston to cyl wall clearance spec?
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Old 12-07-2008, 01:23 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I hope you read "Gearhd6`s post". There are two reasons why it would have burned down: Crank seal failure and carburation(froze up, settings wrong, intake boot cracked, air filter shot and sucked snow in). If I were you, I`d spend the $80 on a complete gasket set(includes crank seals) or jusy buy the crank seals and a base gasket and start at the bottom. Its cheap insurance if you don`t have a leakdown tester. Every sled I buy, no matter how good it runs, the first thing I do is pull the engine and put new crank seals in it. Gives a guy a chance to maybe catch a bearing that is on its last leg. You`d hate to spend the money on the top end and have it go, just because it was the crank seals in the first place.[/b]
Hey Darcy32171, good post....now is there a way to tell if the crank seals are bad, other than a close up visual?..I had my seals replaced last year after i melted it the first time. Seals look all good, but i don't have a leak down tester on hand to check it out. I've heard if the seals are going the idle fluctuates, but i don't know if that's true. Also heard if you give a shot of starting fluid (eether) to the seal as it runs, it should rev up if it leaks.........however, once again, i don't know if this is crazy or what. I just want to test my seals somehow.
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Old 12-07-2008, 08:15 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Also heard if you give a shot of starting fluid (eether) to the seal as it runs, it should rev up if it leaks.........however, once again, i don't know if this is crazy or what. I just want to test my seals somehow.[/b]
Without a leakdown tester thats really the only other way to test crank seals other than actually pulling it apart and replacing them. The seal rarely ever "looks" bad, they usually just harden up or just lose their sealing qualities. Leakdown testers are the way to go, maybe you can bring it to a shop and have them do it. Do all the hard work for them, pull the carbs and Y pipe and let them just test it.
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Old 12-09-2008, 06:11 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Piston to cyl. wall clearance is .0035-.0039" for anyone that cares.
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Old 12-09-2008, 08:50 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Piston to cyl. wall clearance is .0035-.0039" for anyone that cares.[/b]

Thanks for the info. Isn't there usually a "service limit" also. Meaning the MAX clearance and still be serviceable? Like .0041 or something?
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