track tensioner bolt stuck... - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 01-19-2012, 03:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default track tensioner bolt stuck...

so i figured id make a new thread so everyone would see it and maybe someone random would chime in.

last weekend while adjusting my track tighter because of a bit of ratcheting i did one side with a wrench. did two turns. went to the other side and for the life of me i cant get the bolt to move. the nut will back off the aluminum mount but the bolt will not spin. i put a big impact on it with no luck. tried soaking it in pb blaster and still nothing. i just moved it a few months ago before winter and there wasnt an issue.

i relieved the pressure from the rear axle blocks from touching it as well and the sled rear end is now in the air.

my only thought is that the aluminum shrunk onto the steel bolt because of aluminums property to expand/contract faster than the steel bolt would??? any suggestions i could try? i tried a 3ft breaker bar but the rail just rotated with added torsion being applied.
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Old 01-19-2012, 04:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If you already tried the panther piss on it , I would go with the heat next . Use a propane torch , maybe even get a friend to help you , one fella with the torch and heat up the aluminum block and the other guy with the ratchet , start putting the heat into it and keep some strain on it . I will usually heat it up until all sign of penetrating fluid is burnt off . Steel to steel I use heat and fluid , aluminum to steel I just use heat . When you get it moving I would clean it up well and get some neverseize or something similar on there . The aluminum didn't shrink , corrosion between the aluminum and the bolt took hold , the heat will expand the aluminum to assist in breaking the bond the corrosion has formed . I'd say 2 minutes max , maybe not even that with the heat on it , if it doesn't break loose , leave cool down for 10-15 and try it again . Corroded and broken bolts are best dealt with using great patience .

Last edited by OldPolaris; 01-19-2012 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 01-19-2012, 05:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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yeah i have used heat before when changing ball joints and didnt have my torch with me. just amazing what two months can all of a sudden do. ill def use no penetrating oil this time. would a impact instead of pressure help. i have had great luck with a impact and the hammering affect rather than steady pressur eon steel to steel bonds in the past on my wrx. just got home from fleet farm. guess im going back to buy antisieze. lol
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Old 01-19-2012, 06:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Better chance of breaking it with an impact , personally , I always use handtools when doing anything like this so I can feel it out . You may have already twisted the bolt with the power handle on it . I would also clean the threads as best you can on the axle side of the block before you try to move it and when /if you get it moving take it right out and then clean the entire bolt good .
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Old 01-19-2012, 08:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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forget the regular penetrating oils - use a "freeze shock" penetratant
Loctite Freeze & Release Penetrating Oil Loosens Rusted Bolts: Engine Builder
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Old 01-19-2012, 08:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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A little heat will probably do it.
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Old 01-19-2012, 09:03 PM   #7 (permalink)
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ive had this same thing happen to my sled. penetrating oil will do nothing. use the propane torch, and you might have to cover the rear idler wheel with aluminum foil so you dont melt it.
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Old 01-19-2012, 09:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Even without loosening the tension can you pop the rear idlers off to get them out of the way?
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:01 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Remove the bolt from the axle and either knock the wheel off or drive the axle in until the wheel comes off if need be .

Last edited by OldPolaris; 01-19-2012 at 10:06 PM.
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Oh I just had another thought for you.Once the rear wheels are off you'll have more room to heat it up. Back the lock nut off as far as you can and try to go in with the bolt if you can to get it moving. Once you get it going my dad has a great method for getting a stuck bolt out.OK once a little bit of movement is happening use a breaker bar with short back and forth motion to it pulling further the way you want it to go with each movement. The trick is know the breaking point of what your working with. Don't use the air gun you'll kill it. Hope this helps . If you need me to splain this better post up. The freeze stuff can help too. Don't kill the skid!!!
TIM

Last edited by tbear0_6; 01-19-2012 at 10:26 PM.
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