TECH TIPS for EDGE 600 - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 11-16-2009, 02:33 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Current Sled(s): 2007 DRAGON 700, 4500 MILES
Previous Sled(s): 2002 EDGE-X 800,6400 miles, 1999 XCR 800
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10-11 Mileage: 520 so far
Age: 49
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I had a 2001 EDGE-X 600 that was extremely well dialed in for a "stocker". Here's some tips that may be useful.

BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK MODS

1) HOLTZMAN ATAAC, spot on jetting ALL the time, improves throttle response and mileage (www.holtzmaneng.com) approx $240.00, I had this on my 2 sleds and 3 of my bud's, E-Z (less than 1 hour install) does everything it says.

2) HOT SEAT PERFORMANCE or BMP heads, for use w/91 octane, easy bolt-on, improves bottom end and mid-range GRUNT!!!

3) 96 or More studs, I ran (144) 1.3125" Woody's Gold Mege Bite square tip Studs with the 1.25" square plastic backers, traction is where it's at, all the H.P. and clutching in the world will be useless unless you're coupled to the ground.


almost FREE MODS

PRIMARY CLUTCH:


1) Set your belt to primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" w/NEW belt, mine was .070" from the factory. This improves acceleration and reduces the slamming effect onto the crankshaft upon engagement thereby further extending crank shaft life.

2) Install a new primary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $30.00) I ran the stock Dark Blue/White with 60 grams weights, some guys preferred 61 or 62's

3) Send your clutch out to have it balanced (preferably after you've set the belt to sheave side clearance) only $35.00, extends clutch and crankshaft life and reduces vibration, well worth doing, XCR1250 (Here on H.C.S.) and others offer this service.


SECONDARY

1) Install a new secondary spring at the start of every season (approx $30.00)

2) Check / replace (3) plastic wear buttons, they're only $1.00 each


BOTH PRIMARY & SECONDARY

1) Align your clutches (offset and center to center), You may have to shim behind the rear engine bracket with thin Chevrolet style starter shims (available @ auto parts stores under the "HELP' brand) to get it perfect.

2) Lightly sand BOTH primary and secondary clutches w/180 grit perpendicular to the way the belt rides and wipe down w/lacquer thinner.

3) Wash/scrub (with a plastic bristle brush) w/soap & HOT water your new belt and let dry overnight, sounds weird, but it removes the "mold release" compound that would otherwise would get smeared all over your nice clean clutches.

4) I prefer the # 3211087 (close tolerance belt) over the # 3211080 (standard edge belt) although your dealer may have to order it for you.



ENGINE LIMITER

Install a WMS TORQUE ARM engine limiter on the PTO side, approx $83.00, E-Z installation SLP part # 23-52, also available from TRI-CITY POLARIS



EXHAUST VALVES

1) ) Clean your exhaust valves and valve bores, they're probably dirtier/gummier than you think, also clean the bores with some carb cleaner/lacquer thinner on a shop rag and run that in & out on the exhaust valve bores a bit. Avoid using the wire wheel to clean the aluminum valves as they have a hardened coating on them and the wire wheel will end up damaging that.

2) Exhaust bellows, check for small rips and tears. The original exhaust bellows were blue, the latest and greatest bellows are Orange in color.



CHECK AND RESET YOUR T.P.S. (Easier to do than you realize)

1) Look at the pinned topics at the top of the PRO-X section, there's a thread tells you how to build your own tester for less than $10.00 with parts from Radio Shack, double check the voltage on your tester, DON'T OVERLOOK THIS, you want 5.000 volts EXACTLY!

2) For those that don't want to build a T.P.S. tester, I just purchased a T.P.S. tester (manufactured by KENT-MOORE / SPX) from my local POLARIS dealer for $48.76 PART # 2201519-A Comes with the pigtail, 2 plug ends, 5 volt regulator, harness. All you need then is a 9-volt battery and a voltmeter. Works on sleds, ATV's & Rangers. With this "store bought unit" you still need to verify the 5.000 volts prior to testing.

3) The EDGE's get set at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE, spec is 4.0-4.1 volts.

4) Move the throttle gradually from idle to full throttle and back down again while watching the needle on your analog style voltmeter as you want it to move gradually in synch with the throttle, an erratic needle reading indicates a faulty T.P.S. and replace if necessary.



CHAIN CASE

1) Open up your chain case at the start of every season, wipe out the muck and metal shavings.

2) Check your chain tension in the chain case, adjust it to where the chain will almost touch the backside of the case w/finger pressure.

3) Place a metal straight edge onto the sprockets and make sure they're PERFECTLY in line. You can obtain some 1" I.D. valve spring shims from the auto parts stores or automotive cylinder head rebuilding shops, they come in a variety of thicknesses, .030", .060" These shims also fit the secondary shaft for fine tuning the offset and free play.



OTHER: OIL PUMP CALIBRATION, TRACK TENSION, MAINTENANCE:

1) Check your oil pump calibration , I used 1 quart of oil in approx 160-165 miles, check with a light and mirror, look for the alignment marks to line up as a starting point. 40:1 is 1 quart per 10 gallons of fuel, I prefer to run @ 55:1 or 60:1 (approx 22 ounces per 10 gallons of fuel) There's a picture of the oil pump posted in the IQ section, thread pinned at the top TECH TIPS FOR 600/700/800 Free Mods and Best Bang for the Buck

2) Run your track looser that specs, approx 1" to 1 1/2" sag just sitting there on the stand.


SKI's

1) Check ski alignment, 1/8" toe out is preferred

2) Check out www.bergstromskis.com Very informative site, especially the info on shimming the stock skis to eliminate the "darting" issue instead of purchasing a $350.00 pair of skis



THAT ANNOYING HIGH IDLE PROBLEM

1) Replace the .9 PILOT AIR JET with a 1.0 (Can be seen from the air box side looking into the carb throat)

2) Reduce idle speed to 1400 R.P.M.

3) Make sure the T.P.S. is set to 4.0 volts, and not higher



DEBATABLE

SLP Big Air Kit and Flo-Rites, ($42.95 + (2) X $19.95= approx $83.00) E-Z to install, I just didn't notice any difference that's all. However, they do cause a noticeable increase in intake noise, if you like your sled quiet, don't do this mod.



COLD START TIP

On the night before, use the choke to "kill" the engine instead of the switch. The fuel dilutes/washes the oil off of the cylinder wall and makes starting the engine on a cold morning so much easier.



WASTE OF $$$$$ I.M.O.

1) V-Force reeds, maybe slightly more responsive on it's best day, V-force's were definitely NOT worth the $258.00 and installation time!!

2) Aftermarket Silencers, even with the weight reduction, they'll slow you down and for those of you who think it's "cool" remember that next time you come across a "trail closed" sign.

3) Roller Secondary. The "old style" button secondary is faster on top end.

4) Boost bottles

5) 8" rear wheels

6) Anti-ratchet drive wheels



Hope this helps
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Byron Circa 1984, '72 Dodge Colt, Full Tube Chassis, Strange Struts, 4 Link, Koni Coil Overs, 15" x 33", Mild 426 Wedge, Torqueflite, Lexan windows, Dzus Fasteners & Quick Release Pins Everywhere, All Polished Aluminum Interior, Fuel Cell, "Weld" Superlite Wheels, 2220 lbs. w/Driver, Leaving the Starting Line Carrying the Front Wheels and Being Plastered into the Back of the Seat and Stopping it from 137+ m.p.h. by Pulling the Parachute-PRICELESS!!!



Byron, 1982, 71 Dodge Demon, 426 Wedge, Aluminum 4-speed, Narrowed Dana 4.56, Alston Bars & Floater, SS Springs, 12.20" x 31.25" Firestones, Polished Centerlines, 10 pt Rollcage, Aluminum wheel tubs, Fiberglass fenders, hood, & decklid


1986 INDY 600 LIMITED EDITION CHROME PACKAGE [/b]91 M.P.H. @ RADAR RUNS 1000' (6000+ MILES) TRAILERED TO YELLOWSTONE IN 1988
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Old 11-16-2009, 06:53 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Thanks Kraven! Great post
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Old 11-16-2009, 06:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I believe the best bang for your buck is a good EGT gauge. You can dial your sled in and not worry about burning it down. For the price of an engine rebuild you could save yourself a lot of grief. An added benefit is more power and better gas mileage. When trail riding my XCR I always get better gas mileage than the other 2 strokes.
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Old 11-20-2009, 04:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
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What about the waterpump gearing?? It seems to be a pump upgrade on the 04 and newer who allows the pump to pump more water around (more flowing) . can you run the 04 600s leaner with more cooling. i cant remember where i did hear that.
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Old 11-20-2009, 05:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Poo changed the drive on the crank to what was called a 909 gear on the 04 small blocks. They are spinning the pump faster.
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Old 11-21-2009, 09:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Here are some clutching recommendations for all around TRAIL use. The weights needed will depend on your engines state of tune, your weight, track weight, riding conditions. The helix/secondary spring choice will depend on parts availability. These are my preferences, and the combos work. Other combos are possible, and I do not doubt other peoples testing results.

On all sleds with 23/39 gearing stock, 23/40 gives less chain dogleg, and slightly better acceleration, with no loss of speed. The chain must be stretched, and the tensioner may need to be ground for the chain to fit properly. Use lightweight gear #2900141 if possible. Reduces rotating mass.

The TEAM secondary upgrade is for riders primarily concerned with lightening quick backshift in all snow conditions, and who may upgrade to PERC reverse. The button clutch can be tuned for a very quick backshift, but it is not an easy task for the majority of riders. The TEAM is a bolt on and forget it change.

With all combos rpm should be at 8-8100 rpm. (actual rpm, tach must be calibrated to read a proper 8000 rpm).

Low budget

Button Secondary- almond/blue primary spring, or slp 140/310 for slightly lower engagement rpm. 10-60 or 10-62 weights. Stock secondary set-up.

TEAM Secondary- almond/blue primary spring, or slp 140/310 for slightly lower engagement rpm. 10-60 or 10-62 weights. Stock secondary set-up. At a minimum 1 #420720 Delrin washer under the spring cup. 2 may be used, one in the cup and one under. Or 3, one in the cup, one under, and one in the spider (opposite end of spring).

Medium Budget

Button Secondary- almond/blue primary spring, or slp 140/310 for slightly lower engagement rpm. 10-60 or 10-62 weights. Silver/blue, hot seat orange, or erlandson orange (light, not HD) secondary spring. #2 or 3 hole. Helix change to HSP34X (best), HSP34S, Dalton PR52/42-34. Other helixes may work, but these are my preferred ones.

TEAM Secondary- almond/blue prmary spring, or slp 140/310 for slightly lower engagement rpm. 10-60 or 10-62 weights. For quick backshift and snappy response, almond/blue and 10-60's. Black secondary spring with 64/42-.46, or 64/42-.36 helix. For lower cruising rpm, and slightly higher top speed, a red/dk. blue secondary spring (same as stock). Some sleds will pull a 64/44-.46 or 66-44-42, .46/.25/.25 but not in deep snow conditions (usually). At a minimum 1 #420720 Delrin washer under the spring cup. 2 may be used, one in the cup and one under. Or 3, one in the cup, one under, and one in the spider (opposite end of spring).


High Budget

Primary clutch set-up almond/blue or slp 140/310, 10-60 or 10-62 weights. TEAM TSS-04 Lightweight secondary clutch. (Saves 1 lb. rotating mass, plus the lighter helix. If comparing TSS-98 with twin trax helix (not factory polaris) and steel spring, to TSS-04 with twin trax helix and titanium spring, the TSS-04 is 1lb. 8 oz. lighter). 64/42-.46 or 64/42-.36 helix with black or red/dk. blue spring. 64/44-.46 or 66-44-42, .46/.25/.25 may work also in certain conditions. One #420720 Delrin washer under the spring cup.
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Old 11-29-2009, 01:06 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Join Date: Feb 2008
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Current Sled(s): 2007 DRAGON 700, 4500 MILES
Previous Sled(s): 2002 EDGE-X 800,6400 miles, 1999 XCR 800
Location: MIDWEST
Favorite Riding Area: YELLOWSTONE
10-11 Mileage: 520 so far
Age: 49
Riding Since: 1985
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Quote:
how about a post for the 700 xc sp/ edge xc polaris best bang for the buck mods[/b]
95% or more of the above apply for the EDGE 700, only real difference is the clutch combo.

P.M. Pockets for clutch combo for the 700 as I have not run a 700 since my 1998 XC 700

If you have another question, just p.m. me.
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Byron Circa 1984, '72 Dodge Colt, Full Tube Chassis, Strange Struts, 4 Link, Koni Coil Overs, 15" x 33", Mild 426 Wedge, Torqueflite, Lexan windows, Dzus Fasteners & Quick Release Pins Everywhere, All Polished Aluminum Interior, Fuel Cell, "Weld" Superlite Wheels, 2220 lbs. w/Driver, Leaving the Starting Line Carrying the Front Wheels and Being Plastered into the Back of the Seat and Stopping it from 137+ m.p.h. by Pulling the Parachute-PRICELESS!!!



Byron, 1982, 71 Dodge Demon, 426 Wedge, Aluminum 4-speed, Narrowed Dana 4.56, Alston Bars & Floater, SS Springs, 12.20" x 31.25" Firestones, Polished Centerlines, 10 pt Rollcage, Aluminum wheel tubs, Fiberglass fenders, hood, & decklid


1986 INDY 600 LIMITED EDITION CHROME PACKAGE [/b]91 M.P.H. @ RADAR RUNS 1000' (6000+ MILES) TRAILERED TO YELLOWSTONE IN 1988
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Old 10-20-2010, 08:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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GUYS, this is a sticky thread for mods and setups for 600's, not a general discussion area. keep the bullshit out of this thread please, thanks.
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Quote:
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Well mine is not entirely stock....I was told by a wise man once. There are two types of racers....."cheaters and losers"
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Really? I thought it was a site where we talk about jacking it into a cup
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Don't use plastic, they destroy the ozone layer and kill polar bears and the great South American Underwater BasketWeaver Birds!

Just don't 'jack it' anymore ok.....
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Old 01-31-2011, 08:28 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kraven View Post
SKI's

1) Check ski alignment, 1/8" toe out is preferred

2) Check out www.bergstromskis.com Very informative site, especially the info on shimming the stock skis to eliminate the "darting" issue instead of purchasing a $350.00 pair of skis
Just a heads up. That link is dead.
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Old 02-03-2011, 04:40 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Cool Bergstromskegs

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Originally Posted by Meph View Post
Just a heads up. That link is dead.
Thanks, typo on my part.

(BERGSTROMSKEGS)

The correct website is:

Bergstrom Skegs | Carbides, wear bars, trail grabbers, ski savers
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Byron Circa 1984, '72 Dodge Colt, Full Tube Chassis, Strange Struts, 4 Link, Koni Coil Overs, 15" x 33", Mild 426 Wedge, Torqueflite, Lexan windows, Dzus Fasteners & Quick Release Pins Everywhere, All Polished Aluminum Interior, Fuel Cell, "Weld" Superlite Wheels, 2220 lbs. w/Driver, Leaving the Starting Line Carrying the Front Wheels and Being Plastered into the Back of the Seat and Stopping it from 137+ m.p.h. by Pulling the Parachute-PRICELESS!!!



Byron, 1982, 71 Dodge Demon, 426 Wedge, Aluminum 4-speed, Narrowed Dana 4.56, Alston Bars & Floater, SS Springs, 12.20" x 31.25" Firestones, Polished Centerlines, 10 pt Rollcage, Aluminum wheel tubs, Fiberglass fenders, hood, & decklid


1986 INDY 600 LIMITED EDITION CHROME PACKAGE [/b]91 M.P.H. @ RADAR RUNS 1000' (6000+ MILES) TRAILERED TO YELLOWSTONE IN 1988
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