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Old 10-11-2009, 12:02 AM   #1 (permalink)
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I have an 02 800 xcsp with around 4,000 miles. i was going to at least rebuild the top end due to mileage and then i researched and found out about all the crank issues. Would i be stupid not to send the crank out while i'll have it torn down? I know the bullet proof way is to buy indy dan's cases but i think the job would exceed the value of the sled. i also hear from some people the larger pto bearing is a waste of time? Seeing that the sled runs fine with the original crank, is the line bore and cases probably ok? If anyone has any suggestions/advice i would really appreciate it!
Thanks
-Brian
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Old 10-11-2009, 03:18 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I have an 02 800 xcsp with around 4,000 miles. i was going to at least rebuild the top end due to mileage and then i researched and found out about all the crank issues. Would i be stupid not to send the crank out while i'll have it torn down? I know the bullet proof way is to buy indy dan's cases but i think the job would exceed the value of the sled. i also hear from some people the larger pto bearing is a waste of time? Seeing that the sled runs fine with the original crank, is the line bore and cases probably ok? If anyone has any suggestions/advice i would really appreciate it!
Thanks
-Brian[/b]
I had a 2002 EDGE-X 800 (mods in signature) 6400+ miles, original pistons, rings, etc. primary clutch balanced for season #2 (.0025" run-out @ 6500 miles)

My other bud's 2003 XC 800 4500+ miles all stock, never changed more than belts and plugs. primary clutch balanced (.0015" crank run-out)

My other bud's 2002 EDGE-X 800 crank failed @ 7500 miles, never did anything other than drive it. (.007" run-out, done!)


I would remove the primary clutch and check the crank run-out, if it's .0025" or less I would leave it alone and ride it, I.M.O.

4000 miles is no big deal, just do a compression check if you're around 125 p.s.i. or so (gauges vary a lot) just ride it!!

If you want to do some preventative maintenance, spend $35.00 and send the clutch out to have it balanced. check w/XCR 1250 Don (here on H.C.S.)

Also check your primary sheave to NEW belt clearance .010" to .015" is preferred, too much clearance hurts performance and increases stresses on the crank with that slamming effect upon engagement.

Hope this helps
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Byron, 1982, 71 Dodge Demon, 426 Wedge, Aluminum 4-speed, Narrowed Dana 4.56, Alston Bars & Floater, SS Springs, 12.20" x 31.25" Firestones, Polished Centerlines, 10 pt Rollcage, Aluminum wheel tubs, Fiberglass fenders, hood, & decklid


1986 INDY 600 LIMITED EDITION CHROME PACKAGE [/b]91 M.P.H. @ RADAR RUNS 1000' (6000+ MILES) TRAILERED TO YELLOWSTONE IN 1988
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Old 10-11-2009, 06:21 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I would at least put new pistons in check the bore of the cylinders and take the bottom end apart and check the bearings for smoothness. if everything looks good put it back together and ride it. the most you want on run out on the pto is .0005 by polaris specs.
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Old 10-11-2009, 06:32 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I would at least put new pistons in check the bore of the cylinders and take the bottom end apart and check the bearings for smoothness. if everything looks good put it back together and ride it. the most you want on run out on the pto is .0005 by polaris specs.[/b]

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Old 10-11-2009, 08:18 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
I have an 02 800 xcsp with around 4,000 miles. i was going to at least rebuild the top end due to mileage and then i researched and found out about all the crank issues. Would i be stupid not to send the crank out while i'll have it torn down? I know the bullet proof way is to buy indy dan's cases but i think the job would exceed the value of the sled. i also hear from some people the larger pto bearing is a waste of time? Seeing that the sled runs fine with the original crank, is the line bore and cases probably ok? If anyone has any suggestions/advice i would really appreciate it!
Thanks
-Brian[/b]

Well if you have good compression, no signs of detonation on the pistons I would leave the top end alone.

If you do chose to rebuild the top end don't forget to have the jugs honed out and get the crosshatch in them again and the glaze off. This is so the rings will set in. Rebuilding a top end without doing this usually leads to a engine with less hp. The rings will never seat.

Read the topic in the xc section, 2002 xc rebuild, by fastpolaris83
read my topic, this years new project 800 liberty in a iq. You'll find a section in there on cranks and what I had done.
I wouldn't go to indy dan, to expensive.

The bottom end is what you should be looking at, not the top.

For $450 +or- you can have a whol;e crank rebuilt with hot rods and the wide bearing kit, and all poins welded.

The 800's are also famous for the center bearings going.

Also on the 02 case if you do split the case in half drill out the hole in the upper case that drips oil into the bearings, poo didn't drill this on hole out till 2004.
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Old 10-11-2009, 12:28 PM   #6 (permalink)
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where do you go for crank work and should i get the line bore checked as well?
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Old 10-11-2009, 01:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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where do you go for crank work and should i get the line bore checked as well?[/b]

Clark Spriegal in Attica NY does my cranks.

I don't have them line bored.
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Old 10-11-2009, 03:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I've just read a lot about the cases getting out of alignment due to casting defects so i thought a line bore check was normal. Would you have a number i could reach clark at?
thanks
-Brian
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Old 10-11-2009, 05:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
I've just read a lot about the cases getting out of alignment due to casting defects so i thought a line bore check was normal. Would you have a number i could reach clark at?
thanks
-Brian[/b]

585 591 3126
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Old 10-11-2009, 05:42 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thank you for your help, much appreciated.
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