ustom built motor plate vs Re-drilled XC 800 Plates - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 09-01-2006, 10:07 AM   #1 (permalink)
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There is a guy custom building motor plates for doing the triple in an edge chassis..

the xc plate mod would definatley be cheaper at 75$ sent to HTG

the triple plate is around 200$,, abit more costly..

I have not investigated anymore than that..

I am woundering what the pro's an con's would be..

:cn:
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Old 09-01-2006, 12:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I've seen that triple motor plate and it looks a lot better than the redrilled motor straps...but, I'm not sure if it mounts the motor in the exact same location as the HTG re-drills. The problem here is that the HTG pipes are based off the mounting of the motor with the re-drilled straps. There is a possibility that the other motor plate might not let the pipes line up. You could always have HTG fit them in the chassis....but you're a good distance away.
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Old 09-01-2006, 03:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Roger, If you are talking about Brads plates the motor holes will not be drilled. They are good quality plates. In your application it might be better to go with the drilled ones from HTG. The only reason I say this is because it will eliminate the step of lining up the motor and save some time. Also besides lining up the motor left and right you may have to space the motor up. I may be wrong but the one peice plate may sit lower in the chassis.
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Old 09-01-2006, 03:58 PM   #4 (permalink)
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My edge / tripple.

I used Brads plate.
It came undrilled, like I asked for.
You must space the engine up 1/2 inch for h20 pump clearance over the right front motor mount.
The plate uses the existing motor mount holes in the bulkhead.
It uses the edge front style motor mounts, I used 90 durometer.
It uses the old style bolt through the plate and into the bulkhead mounts.
The center mount in the back of the plate, ( there are 3 ) interfer's with the oil pump so I only used the bottom half of the mount and a washer on the top.
You must trim the right front mount threads even with the top of the nut for h20 pump clearance, Install engine with pump off and then install pump after engine is in.
You must notch the plate for the oil pump arm to clear the plate.

Benifits, Using the plate is the only way to go considering a stock 600 twin will rip the right rear edge mount in half.
I also use a torque arm on the pto front. This engine does not move.
Stiffens engine case

Downfalls
With straps, you must move the right front monting hole in the bulkhead.
Watch engine twist around.

Roger
As far as pipes I am 30 min from hot to go.
I had the pipes custom fit using a stock xcr can.
I am willing to,,,,,, If you call htg, talk to rob, tell him what your up to and mention 6' 6'' big Al with the custom plate and his pipes. Tell Rob that if it good with him I will run down to the shop, grab a set of edge pipes setup that uses his motor mounts, and I will fit them in my chasis to see if it works. I use the xcr mounting plate for the silencer from rob, so I know my can is in the same place.

To add, on my prox twin I got tired of the engine moving around so I put bolt through mounts on the rear mounts. The engine does not lift up in the back anymore.

I'd do it again, If you lost my phone # roger, pm me and I'll give it to you.

Ps talk to Rob, everybody is great over there but cut out the middle man and go right to the boss if you want to try to swing this.

Al
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Old 09-01-2006, 08:20 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I have htg edge triple Pipes already.. But nothing I could not sell. I have not sent them
for ceramic coating yet..

I have 800 straps that have not shipped out to htg yet..

the battle of which way to go has begun

My plan is to use the XCR AIrbox and Oil Resivoir.. and I am told there will be a need to
push the motor more mag side so the steering post lines up with airbox grove..
and the plate will allow me to match that up.. but would most likley need new Pipes fitted.

I plan on the front torq arm. Regardles of what mounts I use

I just picked up the xcr stock can mounting braces and belly pan exit hole mount

the motor went to Flannery Yesterday morning.. :banana:

so I have a few weeks to decide.. I have chassis and rail prep and extensions to get mounted, shock rebuilds to get out to jbshocks. chaincase pulled apart for the 136 inch track and the gearing choices to make.. and carbs to clean up and reassemble.. the sled has 3 drivers.. and was thinking about adding the 4th..
plus cosmeting crap to get cleaned up and powdercoated..

so I got more work to get done too many decisions and not enough funds to gettem all done today
1 thing at a time..


Al, pm me you're number.. I'll give ya a call..
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Old 09-02-2006, 08:24 AM   #6 (permalink)
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You have pipes allready that you haven't sent for coating. Don't send them, save the $200 for coating.
Mine are painted black, throttle response is instant, rpm's start at 8400 and climb to 8600 by 100 mph.
Some engines don't want extra hot pipes, they can loose power, AND AID IN THE ALLREADY SHAKY LIFE OF THE CENTER CYLINDER ON A LONG RUN.
I have no problem with under the hood heat.

Coating pipes might be a help for the 1/4 mile drag racer, I see no use in it for the 150 mile a day trail rider.

Anybody can probably make more hp on the dyno with coated pipes, thats fine and dandy, leave it WOT for 2 min. on the dyno and see what happens. You can over heat the pipes and increase detonation likelyhood quite easy.

Hell I'm tring to find a way to make the center jug run less efficient, coated pipe will just make it worse.

My opinion.
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