03 pro-x....bent crank fix,how much??

[imfixinmopars]

ok,i have checked the crank run out w/ a solid moun+mag base dial indicator,and im getting .008 at the inner large part of the crank in between the taper.and the seal..,so... i guess i might rebuild,and do the wide brg kit. so if i buy a ready to go crank,w/ the wide brg installed,what do i have to do to the crankcase?? will i need align honed? and what exactly is the machining process is needed to install the wide bearing??? how much is the machining [align hone+wide brg] going to cost??? just trying to get an idea of the repair,and if i should fix,or part out. thanks,mike

[chimmy]

Cant help you with all your questions but last spring when I bought a reman crank for my 700, I asked about how much it would be for the wide bearing crank and they told me same price (I paid $400 for the complete remaned crank, with my core sent to them) I would have just had to send them my cases and have them machine them for the wide bearing.. Didn't ask anymore questions on the cost of that though...

[dmjarosz]

Before you go spending the big dollars on a new crank, wide bearing kit, etc, make sure the .008 runout you got is a true number. I had about the same number when I measured at the begining of this season before I realized I needed to do two things:

1) Mount the indicator base to the engine block itself, not the chassis. Just the forces of turning the engine over cause it to shift a few thousandths on the motor mounts, throwing off the reading. You'll need to get creative with this since a magnetic base and an Aluminum block dont really work together.

2) Polish up the PTO end with fine-grit emery cloth. I small amount of corrosion here and there will add to your runout value. Wipe clean with IPA when complete.

After I did those two things, my runout went down to .0011, well within spec. I breathed a heavy sigh of relief as I cracked a beer and smiled at my sled.

[apollonalo]

Originally Posted by dmjarosz

Before you go spending the big dollars on a new crank, wide bearing kit, etc, make sure the .008 runout you got is a true number. I had about the same number when I measured at the begining of this season before I realized I needed to do two things:

1) Mount the indicator base to the engine block itself, not the chassis. Just the forces of turning the engine over cause it to shift a few thousandths on the motor mounts, throwing off the reading. You'll need to get creative with this since a magnetic base and an Aluminum block dont really work together.

2) Polish up the PTO end with fine-grit emery cloth. I small amount of corrosion here and there will add to your runout value. Wipe clean with IPA when complete.

After I did those two things, my runout went down to .0011, well within spec. I breathed a heavy sigh of relief as I cracked a beer and smiled at my sled.

X2

[imfixinmopars]

i put the primary on the crank,with out the spring,and end face bolted on,and you can see the end of the clutch shaft wobble....its bent.

[apollonalo]

Originally Posted by imfixinmopars

i put the primary on the crank,with out the spring,and end face bolted on,and you can see the end of the clutch shaft wobble....its bent.

I guess if it were me I would be checking the end of the crank all cleaned up with a good dial indicator attached to the case and not the piece of alum bolted on the end of it that takes a beating. My 2 cents.

[imfixinmopars]

Originally Posted by apollonalo

I guess if it were me I would be checking the end of the crank all cleaned up with a good dial indicator attached to the case and not the piece of alum bolted on the end of it that takes a beating. My 2 cents.

i did that first.....008" out w/ a good mounting source for the dial ind.....then,for the heck of it...installed the clutch,without a face,and u can see it wobble.