jackshaft bearing - Page 2 - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 11-11-2009, 03:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
They are NOT.[/b]

xcr1250 I realize that the bearings are not the same but I thought it was only the seal that was different, correct? Thanks
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Old 11-11-2009, 05:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Part Number Qty
Part 1 3514352-1
Part 2 3514448-1
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5
Part 6
Part 7
Part 8
Part 9
Part 10
Show Dealer Cost
Yes No



Part Number Description Quantity MSRP* Ext MSRP In Stock
3514352 BEARING-1XM52XM15 SPH 1 $22.65 $22.65 Yes
3514448 BEARING-25MM SPH OD LUBE 1 $36.56 $36.56 Yes
Totals 2 $59.21 $59.21



These are the two in question.
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Old 11-11-2009, 07:41 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Yeah, still the SAME sticker on my `09 to. Come on Polaris, wake up and spend a buck to get those reprinted. What did they order a warehouse full of those stickers and still trying to use up supply?

THAT or yes, put zerk fitting back into the flange. Is the actual flange any different or can you just drill a hole and screw in a zerk? I havent looked but whats sealing the grease from just flowing out around the shaft? My Edge must have had some sort of seal there then.

On finding a bearing with the pinhole, why dont you just 'ventilate' your stock bearing seal if it feels good or find any quality (i.e., NTN, etc.) bearing from an industrial supply or back at the dealer doing the same?[/b]
700EDGE'd

On the bold,

When you suggested ventilate, did you meanremove the seal, pack with grease and then (hopefully) try to replace the seal??

I'm trying to assemble a set-up to make the upper jackshaft bearing greaseable on the IQ's as the older EDGE's were.

You can run the lower driveshaft bearing without a seal as the speedo /cover encapsulates the entire side of the bearing, but the upper jackshaft needs to have the seals on BOTH sides, as he bearing sides are exposed, so that's why the need for the pin-holed outer race.

So is that pin-holed outer race bearing availble today ?? My dealer said no.

Regarding the zerk fitting, I was going to drill and "tack" weld if need be or if that fails, just purchase a flange with zerk already in it from an older EDGE.
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Byron Circa 1984, '72 Dodge Colt, Full Tube Chassis, Strange Struts, 4 Link, Koni Coil Overs, 15" x 33", Mild 426 Wedge, Torqueflite, Lexan windows, Dzus Fasteners & Quick Release Pins Everywhere, All Polished Aluminum Interior, Fuel Cell, "Weld" Superlite Wheels, 2220 lbs. w/Driver, Leaving the Starting Line Carrying the Front Wheels and Being Plastered into the Back of the Seat and Stopping it from 137+ m.p.h. by Pulling the Parachute-PRICELESS!!!



Byron, 1982, 71 Dodge Demon, 426 Wedge, Aluminum 4-speed, Narrowed Dana 4.56, Alston Bars & Floater, SS Springs, 12.20" x 31.25" Firestones, Polished Centerlines, 10 pt Rollcage, Aluminum wheel tubs, Fiberglass fenders, hood, & decklid


1986 INDY 600 LIMITED EDITION CHROME PACKAGE [/b]91 M.P.H. @ RADAR RUNS 1000' (6000+ MILES) TRAILERED TO YELLOWSTONE IN 1988
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Old 11-11-2009, 07:58 PM   #14 (permalink)
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GET SOME GREASE TO THE JACKSHAFT BEARING IF YOU CAN. MINE WENT AT 7000 MILES AND DID ALOT OF DAMAGE. WORST THING POL DID WAS REMOVE FITTING FROM THIS BEARING. OLD ONES WITH FITTING NEVER WENT BAD. sAVE THE MONEY ON THE BOGUS STICKER AND PUT THE GREASE FITTING BACK.
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Old 11-11-2009, 08:47 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
GET SOME GREASE TO THE JACKSHAFT BEARING IF YOU CAN. MINE WENT AT 7000 MILES AND DID ALOT OF DAMAGE. WORST THING POL DID WAS REMOVE FITTING FROM THIS BEARING. OLD ONES WITH FITTING NEVER WENT BAD. sAVE THE MONEY ON THE BOGUS STICKER AND PUT THE GREASE FITTING BACK.[/b]
Agreed.

Here's where I'm at ,3700 miles, ZERO grease. I'm not looking for a band-aid repair to just get me by for one more season.

I'm a fan of preventative maintenance, so I'd prefer to work on my sled in my garage with a heated floor out of a couple of tool boxes rather than hammer and chisel on the side of the trail with temps around Zero by the light of the moon.

I don't care about the time it takes me to replace or re-do the flange for the zerk.

Once I have it apart, I'm going to throw the 3700 mile bearing in the garbage, and I'd prefer to install a "greaseable" bearing with the pin hole in the race, that's all.

Now ????? is, can you still buy the "pinholed race bearing or not? as the dealer told me "no."

If the above bearing is no longer available, it appears then that I have no other choice but to replace w/same bearing, maybe pack with a 'lil more grease and pry the seals off every season and repack.
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Byron Circa 1984, '72 Dodge Colt, Full Tube Chassis, Strange Struts, 4 Link, Koni Coil Overs, 15" x 33", Mild 426 Wedge, Torqueflite, Lexan windows, Dzus Fasteners & Quick Release Pins Everywhere, All Polished Aluminum Interior, Fuel Cell, "Weld" Superlite Wheels, 2220 lbs. w/Driver, Leaving the Starting Line Carrying the Front Wheels and Being Plastered into the Back of the Seat and Stopping it from 137+ m.p.h. by Pulling the Parachute-PRICELESS!!!



Byron, 1982, 71 Dodge Demon, 426 Wedge, Aluminum 4-speed, Narrowed Dana 4.56, Alston Bars & Floater, SS Springs, 12.20" x 31.25" Firestones, Polished Centerlines, 10 pt Rollcage, Aluminum wheel tubs, Fiberglass fenders, hood, & decklid


1986 INDY 600 LIMITED EDITION CHROME PACKAGE [/b]91 M.P.H. @ RADAR RUNS 1000' (6000+ MILES) TRAILERED TO YELLOWSTONE IN 1988
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Old 11-11-2009, 08:54 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Agreed.

Here's where I'm at ,3700 miles, ZERO grease. I'm not looking for a band-aid repair to just get me by for one more season.

I'm a fan of preventative maintenance, so I'd prefer to work on my sled in my garage with a heated floor out of a couple of tool boxes rather than hammer and chisel on the side of the trail with temps around Zero by the light of the moon.

I don't care about the time it takes me to replace or re-do the flange for the zerk.

Once I have it apart, I'm going to throw the 3700 mile bearing in the garbage, and I'd prefer to install a "greaseable" bearing with the pin hole in the race, that's all.

Now ????? is, can you still buy the "pinholed race bearing or not? as the dealer told me "no."

If the above bearing is no longer available, it appears then that I have no other choice but to replace w/same bearing, maybe pack with a 'lil more grease and pry the seals off every season and repack.[/b]

As far as I know the answer to the Bold is no. Last year anyway we couldnt buy the bearing at the dealer. Went the an Auto parts store and got a bearing matched just fine. Better quality and a lower price. Not having a Zerk in there is STUPID in my opinion. I couldnt belive that when I saw it either.
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Old 11-11-2009, 08:55 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Agreed.

Here's where I'm at ,3700 miles, ZERO grease. I'm not looking for a band-aid repair to just get me by for one more season.

I'm a fan of preventative maintenance, so I'd prefer to work on my sled in my garage with a heated floor out of a couple of tool boxes rather than hammer and chisel on the side of the trail with temps around Zero by the light of the moon.

I don't care about the time it takes me to replace or re-do the flange for the zerk.

Once I have it apart, I'm going to throw the 3700 mile bearing in the garbage, and I'd prefer to install a "greaseable" bearing with the pin hole in the race, that's all.

Now ????? is, can you still buy the "pinholed race bearing or not? as the dealer told me "no."

If the above bearing is no longer available, it appears then that I have no other choice but to replace w/same bearing, maybe pack with a 'lil more grease and pry the seals off every season and repack.[/b]

How many you want?
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Old 11-11-2009, 09:19 PM   #18 (permalink)
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How many you want?[/b]
Don,

Is that "old stock" or readily available @ any POLARIS dealer currently ??

And just to clarify, as I tried obtaining these in the past from Berry Bearing/ Motion Industries, is the pin-holed outer race a POLARIS only exclusive??

And that answer may be (2)


Thanks
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Byron Circa 1984, '72 Dodge Colt, Full Tube Chassis, Strange Struts, 4 Link, Koni Coil Overs, 15" x 33", Mild 426 Wedge, Torqueflite, Lexan windows, Dzus Fasteners & Quick Release Pins Everywhere, All Polished Aluminum Interior, Fuel Cell, "Weld" Superlite Wheels, 2220 lbs. w/Driver, Leaving the Starting Line Carrying the Front Wheels and Being Plastered into the Back of the Seat and Stopping it from 137+ m.p.h. by Pulling the Parachute-PRICELESS!!!



Byron, 1982, 71 Dodge Demon, 426 Wedge, Aluminum 4-speed, Narrowed Dana 4.56, Alston Bars & Floater, SS Springs, 12.20" x 31.25" Firestones, Polished Centerlines, 10 pt Rollcage, Aluminum wheel tubs, Fiberglass fenders, hood, & decklid


1986 INDY 600 LIMITED EDITION CHROME PACKAGE [/b]91 M.P.H. @ RADAR RUNS 1000' (6000+ MILES) TRAILERED TO YELLOWSTONE IN 1988
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Old 11-11-2009, 09:49 PM   #19 (permalink)
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If they use 2 types of bearings, one must have the grease hole, because the last I knew, they are physically the same size bearing. Only the top shaft needs the greasable outer race. So, if it does not have a zerk on the top shaft, are you sure the top flange isn't drilled for a needle point grease tip? The ones with the holes in the flanges, were used on the early '90's Indy's. I bought one, then had an extra to drill out and swapped out all of mine to the greasable type back then. Also, had to grind the outer race to the pin hole as it was slightly off center, and the flange plugged the grease hole.
FWIW, I've noticed the OEM bearings that failed on the early Edge shafts were not "NTN" bearings, and had plastic spacers between the balls, all the "NTN" bearings had metal spacers in them, and did not fail. Also found out that the ones that failed, (melted the plastic spacers) had little or no grease in them. I have since pumped grease into them until it comes out the other side on both the top and bottom bearings. I replaced a perfectly good bearing with over 5,000 miles and opened it up to find it had a plastic spacer, and was still like new, so the grease job really does help. I also started cutting the rubber out of the inner seal (speedo housing side) on the lower shaft, it does a much better job of flushing the watered down gease out of that bearing, and help keep the grease in the speedo housing from getting watered down and rusting everything up. Next improvement is to make a bolt on shield to keep the snow from melting and getting into the lower bearing so easily.
Wahl Racing has an NTN lower bearing with no grease hole much cheaper than Polaris OEM. I'm not sure if they have one with the grease hole though.
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Old 11-11-2009, 10:01 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
If they use 2 types of bearings, one must have the grease hole, because the last I knew, they are physically the same size bearing. Only the top shaft needs the greasable outer race. So, if it does not have a zerk on the top shaft, are you sure the top flange isn't drilled for a needle point grease tip? The ones with the holes in the flanges, were used on the early '90's Indy's. I bought one, then had an extra to drill out and swapped out all of mine to the greasable type back then. Also, had to grind the outer race to the pin hole as it was slightly off center, and the flange plugged the grease hole.
FWIW, I've noticed the OEM bearings that failed on the early Edge shafts were not "NTN" bearings, and had plastic spacers between the balls, all the "NTN" bearings had metal spacers in them, and did not fail. Also found out that the ones that failed, (melted the plastic spacers) had little or no grease in them. I have since pumped grease into them until it comes out the other side on both the top and bottom bearings. I replaced a perfectly good bearing with over 5,000 miles and opened it up to find it had a plastic spacer, and was still like new, so the grease job really does help. I also started cutting the rubber out of the inner seal (speedo housing side) on the lower shaft, it does a much better job of flushing the watered down gease out of that bearing, and help keep the grease in the speedo housing from getting watered down and rusting everything up. Next improvement is to make a bolt on shield to keep the snow from melting and getting into the lower bearing so easily.
Wahl Racign has an NTN lower bearing with no grease hole much cheaper than Polaris OEM. I'm not sure if they have one with the grease hole though.[/b]
Agree with everything you said

I suspect the pinholed bearing is old stock and no longer available today.

As far as the flange to accomodate a needle point grease tip, I didn't see that, I could have missed it, But I just didn't see one, will take a closer look tomorrow.

The other option would be to use the needle attachment of the grease gun and try to "delicately" insert that into the side of the seal, between the outer seal and bearing and pump grease in that way.

Once again not my preferred method, but it may wwork, just passin it along.
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Byron Circa 1984, '72 Dodge Colt, Full Tube Chassis, Strange Struts, 4 Link, Koni Coil Overs, 15" x 33", Mild 426 Wedge, Torqueflite, Lexan windows, Dzus Fasteners & Quick Release Pins Everywhere, All Polished Aluminum Interior, Fuel Cell, "Weld" Superlite Wheels, 2220 lbs. w/Driver, Leaving the Starting Line Carrying the Front Wheels and Being Plastered into the Back of the Seat and Stopping it from 137+ m.p.h. by Pulling the Parachute-PRICELESS!!!



Byron, 1982, 71 Dodge Demon, 426 Wedge, Aluminum 4-speed, Narrowed Dana 4.56, Alston Bars & Floater, SS Springs, 12.20" x 31.25" Firestones, Polished Centerlines, 10 pt Rollcage, Aluminum wheel tubs, Fiberglass fenders, hood, & decklid


1986 INDY 600 LIMITED EDITION CHROME PACKAGE [/b]91 M.P.H. @ RADAR RUNS 1000' (6000+ MILES) TRAILERED TO YELLOWSTONE IN 1988
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