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TECH TIPS for 600/700/800 CFI's

132K views 78 replies 50 participants last post by  Very old sled guy 
#1 ·
BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK MOD

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PC-5 from DYNOTECH Jim, best $365.00 you'll spend, (585) 993-2777 (www.dynotechresearch.com) Add the AUTO-TUNE option for $250.00 more.

96 or More studs, traction is where it's at, all the power/clutching in the world is useless if you're not coupled to the ground.


almost FREE MODS

PRIMARY CLUTCH:

1) Check your belt to primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" w/NEW belt, mine was .070" from the factory.

2) Install a new primary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $31.00)

SECONDARYY

1) Install (1) DELRIN washer under the spring cup in your secondary clutch (less than $5.00)

2) Install a new secondary clutch spring @ the beginning of every season. (approx $25.00)


BOTH PRIMARY & SECONDARY

1) Align your clutches (center to center 11.5" exactly, and check for engine "crooked", picture posted below of how the alignment tool SHOULD contact the front and rear of the secondary) Check this with the SLP or TEAM tool, as the Genuine GOLD Plated POLARIS tool has approx .070" of built in "kick'
A) WITH SLP PUSH LIMITER: 0 to .020" air gap @ the rear of the secondary
B) WITHOUT SLP push limiter: .020" to .040" air gap @ the rear of the secondary
You may have to slot the engine bracket(s) to case engine case holes get it perfect. These are the holes located directly BELOW the engine itself. On mine & my bud's 07 D7 we had to slot the Mag side engine bracket almost 3/8" to "straighten" things out. Picture of the Mag side slotted engine bracket posted below, do this step ONLY if necessary. DO NOT SLOT THE ENGINE TO RUBBER MOTOR MOUNT HOLES. Double check your c/c measurement after you get the engine "straight" and then slot both engine brackets an equal amount (if necessary) to obtain 11.5" center to center exactly.

2) Check and adjust clutch offset, do this AFTER the above has been completed. This is E-Z, just adjust shims on the secondary shaft until the secondary touches the alignment bar. You want approx .030" of free play as well.

3) Lightly sand both primary and secondary clutches w/180 grit perpendicular to the way the belt rides and wipe down w/lacquer thinner.

4) Mark the Primary clutch sheave with a fat black marker, and make a few full throttle 1/4 mile runs and see how high the belt rides up, see pic posted below.

5) Wash/scrub (plastic bristle brush) your BRAND NEW belt w/soap & hot water, and let dry overnight, sounds weird, but it removes the "mold release" compound that would otherwise would get smeared all over your nice clean clutches.


T.P.S. CHECKING & RE-SETTING PROCEDURE (easier than you think, don't just trust the dealer to "check" this with the Digital Wrench)

Check/reset your T.P.S. Pretty E-Z to do, build a tester for $10. Don't overlook this! Log onto SnoWest, IQ section @ the top, there's a "sticky" INCREASING YOUR IQ. All the info is there. Then go to the Polaris 900 section, there's a video that walks you through the process. Two things to keep in mind, the CFI's T.P.S. get set WITH THE THROTTLE BLADES FULLY CLOSED!! Set it @ .70 volts +/- .01 for the 600/700/800 C.F.I.) After that, then open the idle speed screw to the specified setting (.94 -.95 volts +/- .01 but this varies with model). Most dealers/digital wrench don't do this. Then, using an old style analog voltmeter, open and close the throttle gradually, the needle should move SMOOOOOTHLY, an erratic reading indicates a faulty T.P.S. sensor and must be replaced.

For those that don't want to build a T.P.S. tester, I just purchased a T.P.S. tester (manufactured by KENT-MOORE / SPX) from my local POLARIS dealer for $48.76
PART # 2201519-A. Comes with the pigtail, 2 plug ends, 5 volt regulator, harness. All you need then is a 9-volt battery and a voltmeter. Even with this set-up you need to verify 5.00 volts EXACTLY before starting to test the T.P.S. Works on sleds, ATV's & Rangers


OTHER: OIL PUMP CALIBRATION, CHAIN TENSION, TRACK TENSION, ENGINE LIMITER, OTHER PERFORMANCE TIPS, & MAINTENANCE:

1) Check your oil pump calibration , mine was 38:1 (that's a little more than 1 quart of oil per 10 gallons fuel) stock, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns on the adjuster jam nuts and it's @ 57:1 now (22 TO 23 OUNCES OF OIL PER 10 GALLONS OF GAS) for the last 1200+ miles, marks are suppose to align @ 3:00 position as a starting point. RED dot on the case has a short horizontal mark on it as does the oil pump arm. See picture posted below.

2) Check your chain tension in the chain-case, adjust it to where the chain will almost touch the backside of the case w/finger pressure. While you're in the chain-case place a metal straight edge onto the sprockets to make sure they're EXACTLY in line. Shim with thin 1" I.D. shims available from automotive cylinder head shops, used as valve spring shims. Same shims also fit onto the secondary shaft for getting the offset "dialed in"

3) Run your track looser that stock Polaris specs, approx 1" to 1 1/2" sag just sitting there on the stand.

4) Install a SLP "push arm" engine limiter on the MAG side, approx $40.00, 20 minute installation SLP part # 23-63, picture posted below.

5) Place a small piece of duct tape over your headlight adjuster knob, prevents, water, snow, ice from being ingested into your engine.

6) Remove the air-box and wipe the seam area down with lacquer thinner and duct tape the seam, prevents Kevlar belt dust from being ingested into your engine

7) Plug the exhaust purge hoses coming off the exhaust valves, this makes it like the 2001-2005 set-ups and definitely improves acceleration

8) Install a simple 1/4" shutoff (available @ hardware stores) onto the P.T.O. head where the coolant line heats up the throttle bodies, this comes stock on 2007 Ski-Doo 800's and other models

9) Clean your exhaust valves AND bores, their dirtier and gummier than you think. While you're there check the bellows for small rips and tears.

10) Check your black rubber throttle body adapters because they have a habit of de-laminating/cracking causing air leaks and burn downs. Polaris has since changed part#'s to a "new improved" version


SKI's

1) Check ski alignment, 1/8" toe out is preferred

2) Check out www.bergstromskis.com Very informative site, especially the info on shimming the stock skis to eliminate the "darting" issue instead of purchasing a $350.00 pair of skis



DEBATE-ABLE

SLP Big Air Kit and Flo-Rites, ($42.95 + (4) X $19.95= approx $122.00) E-Z to install , I just didn't notice any difference that's all.

WASTE OF $$$$$ I.M.O.

1) V-Force reeds, NO noticeable improvement, V-force's were definitely NOT worth the $258.00 and a lot of installation time!! In addition, several V-Force users have reported failures after just one season as the CFI sleds run "drier" than carbed sleds/

2) Aftermarket silencers. Even with the weight reduction, acceleration is slower. And for those of you who think it's "cool", consider this next time you come across a "closed trail" sign. LOUD exhaust closes trails, period.

3) Boost bottles (Carbed 600 IQ's)

4) 8" rear wheel kits

HOPE THIS HELPS!!
 

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#2 ·
You must have hollowed out the bottom of your seat to hide that blue bottle! No one would look there HA HA! Very good info in your post kudos to you. For the guys that think their sleds are spot on because they are new(far from it in most cases) ,this information will come in handy when they get spanked by same model sled that someone took the time to check and tweek these things. Can you tell us some more on exaust valve lines and coolant hoses please? Pro's & con's? If I remember correctly,I think Casey is going to do this while on the dyno per your request. To see if there is any gain in pony! I think the smile-o-meters are going to read high this season!
 
#5 ·
I also removed the sponge like filters in the dash of the sled and left just the pre-filter material there. I also siliconed the join in the airbox and completely taped it with foil heat tape to reflect any heat from warming up the airbox.
 
#11 ·
Maybe we should add the thermostat removal to this list as well?

T-Stat removal:

The thermostat is located on the top of the head, between the cylinders. Here's a picture of the thermostat as well as the location on the head:

T-stat (circled in red)
[attachment=597683:T_stat2.JPG]

Location on engine/head
[attachment=597684:T_stat1.JPG]

Here's what we did on my sled & my buddy's sled. Note that some people do this with the front of their sled lifted up so as to get any potential air out of the system. Also keep an old towel or rag handy to keep the excess coolant from getting all over the place.

1. Clamp the coolant hose a few inches behind the thermostat housing. This prevents excessive coolant being leaked/lost when you pull the thermostat.
2. Loosen and remove the two bolts holding the thermostat housing in place.
3. Gently remove the housing and then pull the thermostat out.
4. After you remove the thermostat also remove the o-ring so it can be used on the reinstallation.
5. Place the o-ring back in the housing and then reinstall the housing with the two bolts removed from step 2.
6. Unclamp the coolant hose.
7. Run your sled and make sure you keep an eye on your coolant level ... add as needed.
 

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#12 ·
this is probably going to sound like a stupid question but I'm pretty new to the whole sledding business and I want to get to know this stuff best I can. My question is what is involved in this?

1) Check your belt to primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" w/NEW belt, mine was .070" from the factory

I just need a few words of wisdom to point me in the right direction as to what im looking for from a standing over the clutch perspective and what to do to correct it if it is off.

Thanks to everyone who put out helpful info on here HCS is awesome.

Tony
 
#13 ·
this is probably going to sound like a stupid question but I'm pretty new to the whole sledding business and I want to get to know this stuff best I can. My question is what is involved in this?

1) Check your belt to primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" w/NEW belt, mine was .070" from the factory

I just need a few words of wisdom to point me in the right direction as to what im looking for from a standing over the clutch perspective and what to do to correct it if it is off.

Thanks to everyone who put out helpful info on here HCS is awesome.

Tony[/b]

Tony,

Stick a feeler gauge between the belt and clutch sheave at the tightest point.

Usually the gap is way too big, approx .070", the correct spec is .015" (+/- .005")

In order to correct this, the clutch must be removed from the sled and taken apart and special tools are req'd.

XCR1250 Don, here on H.C.S. can perform that for you, just remove your clutch and ship it to him.

Probably a good idea to balance it at the same time.
 
#15 ·
what does removing the T stat help out and who should do it and who shouldnt ?[/b]
It was something for us 2009 Dragon 800 owners last season. A lot of us were seeing the sled run with higher than normal temps. Although the temps weren't considered bad (for example, 160F+), the engine would lose power pretty quick due to those temperatures. By removing your thermostat you're allowing the coolant to stay cooler and therefore the engine runs better. It's been debated this is actually a bad thing as it exposes the possibility of a cold seize, but I disagree with that just for the fact I've got 900 miles on mine (some in extremely cold weather), with no issues. You obviously need to allow for a proper warm-up, but you should be doing that anyway regardless of having a t-stat or not.
 
#61 ·
It was something for us 2009 Dragon 800 owners last season. A lot of us were seeing the sled run with higher than normal temps. Although the temps weren't considered bad (for example, 160F+), the engine would lose power pretty quick due to those temperatures. By removing your thermostat you're allowing the coolant to stay cooler and therefore the engine runs better. It's been debated this is actually a bad thing as it exposes the possibility of a cold seize, but I disagree with that just for the fact I've got 900 miles on mine (some in extremely cold weather), with no issues. You obviously need to allow for a proper warm-up, but you should be doing that anyway regardless of having a t-stat or not.
when you say extremly cold weather, what temps are you running in, and would you say this is worth doing on my 2010 dragon 800 that sees the same hi temps you were seeing?
 
#16 ·
It was something for us 2009 Dragon 800 owners last season. A lot of us were seeing the sled run with higher than normal temps. Although the temps weren't considered bad (for example, 160F+), the engine would lose power pretty quick due to those temperatures. By removing your thermostat you're allowing the coolant to stay cooler and therefore the engine runs better. It's been debated this is actually a bad thing as it exposes the possibility of a cold seize, but I disagree with that just for the fact I've got 900 miles on mine (some in extremely cold weather), with no issues. You obviously need to allow for a proper warm-up, but you should be doing that anyway regardless of having a t-stat or not.[/b]
Hi Bontz, How's it going? - Cold Sieze isn't the only thing to watch out for when removing the t-stat. The CFI calibration has an enrichment mode that's set at a bit over 100F. If your coolant temp drops in this range the fuel system will go back into an enrichment mode. This will most certainly create poor runability, poor fuel mileage, gummed exhaust valves, fuel soaked pipe sensor, etc. You will be in enrichment mode longer at every cold startup until you surpass your normal t-stat opening at 125F. Now, during operation if it never gets this cool you won't have to worry about it but, if you get in snow that's cooling really well and your temps drop down there's nothing you can do about it; not so good:(

Also, removing the thermostat can't reduce the running coolant temp unless it's a flow restriction; and in this case I don't believe it's enough to make a noticable difference; it's not the bottleneck in the system (I'll stand corrected if someone has honestly done a back to back test in the exact same conditions to prove it.)

My .02c :)
 
#17 ·
Hi Bontz, How's it going? - Cold Sieze isn't the only thing to watch out for when removing the t-stat. The CFI calibration has an enrichment mode that's set at a bit over 100F. If your coolant temp drops in this range the fuel system will go back into an enrichment mode. This will most certainly create poor runability, poor fuel mileage, gummed exhaust valves, fuel soaked pipe sensor, etc. You will be in enrichment mode longer at every cold startup until you surpass your normal t-stat opening at 125F. Now, during operation if it never gets this cool you won't have to worry about it but, if you get in snow that's cooling really well and your temps drop down there's nothing you can do about it; not so good:(

Also, removing the thermostat can't reduce the running coolant temp unless it's a flow restriction; and in this case I don't believe it's enough to make a noticable difference; it's not the bottleneck in the system (I'll stand corrected if someone has honestly done a back to back test in the exact same conditions to prove it.)

My .02c :)[/b]
Thanks for the info racerdoug! On the bold? The reason I removed the t-stat (as well as others) was due to the coolant temps consistently being "higher than normal" .... mine ranged anywhere from 150F on up & that was in good conditions. Now I understand that 150F isn't bad at all, but the Dragon sure seemed to dislike those temps. After removing the t-stat the sled consistently ran in the 120's and 130's where a noticeable difference could be seen in performance. Thoughts?

Note - I'm not recommending that people remove their thermostats. I'm only saying some of us have done so on our 2009 Dragons and have seen good results by doing so.
 
#18 ·
It is going to be interesting to see if removing the t'stat is still required to obtain lower temps in most conditions. The new head has some improvements to how the coolant flows through it, and that might change some of the high temp readings. Time will tell.
Neil
 
#20 ·
could someone please post a pic of there plugged exhaust purge hoses[/b]
I'm maxxed out on pics, there's a 20 Mb limit here on H.C.S. for uploads

Locate the "T' in the 1/4" rubber hoses near the engine and remove it.

Take a 5/16" diameter bolt (it has a 1/2" hex head ) approx 2" or 2 1/2" long and cut the head off.

Use this to connect the 2 hoses together that attach to the exhaust valves.

The leftover hose going to the solenoid , just wire tie it up to something, no need to plug it.

DO NOT DISCONNECT the wires to the solenoid

Any questions just p.m. me
 
#21 ·
It is going to be interesting to see if removing the t'stat is still required to obtain lower temps in most conditions. The new head has some improvements to how the coolant flows through it, and that might change some of the high temp readings. Time will tell.
Neil[/b]
Just a heads up on the t-stat. With the latest update going into my sled I figured I better go back to scratch and put my t-stat back in (at least for the time being). I ran it the other day and my temps never got over 128F. Last year with the t-stat in I would rarely run under 135 or 140. I'm not sure if it's due to the update, the fact I was riding in a lot of powder, or the fact my coolant has been diluted a bit since last year ... if you guys remember, there were claims the factory was putting 100% coolant in our sleds last year. Anyway, I'm running with mine installed and so far, so good re: engine temp.
 
#23 ·
Just a heads up on the t-stat. With the latest update going into my sled I figured I better go back to scratch and put my t-stat back in (at least for the time being). I ran it the other day and my temps never got over 128F. Last year with the t-stat in I would rarely run under 135 or 140. I'm not sure if it's due to the update, the fact I was riding in a lot of powder, or the fact my coolant has been diluted a bit since last year ... if you guys remember, there were claims the factory was putting 100% coolant in our sleds last year. Anyway, I'm running with mine installed and so far, so good re: engine temp.[/b]
I have 100+ miles on my new update and am consistantly seeing 150-170 temps riding in normal conditions, during my first ride at one time it hit 196 and the light came on, I pulled over and let it cool down. Then I put 50 miles on the other day in 5 degree temps on hard packed snow it agin ran 145-165 but I did not see the 195ish, I went into the powder and it cooled down to 140ish.

1) The Specs say the 800 Dragon has 8.46 Quarts of capacity, should I and how much should I replace with Distilled water.

2) If I remove the T-Stat, I am afraid if I Put the little rubber O-Ring (it is not solid) back in, it may fall in since it is solid.

3) Does adding a couple inches to the Snow Flap help keep the snow in the tunnel to help with the cooling, I was thinking of adding a 4 " piece on the bottom with rivets so if it did get caught while backing up, that would be the piece that gets torn off, therefore no real damage done.

Other then the heating up I am very happy with the running quality, My dealer put in Champion plugs when they did the update, I have not put the Iridium plugs back in yet, but have noticed very very little stumble.
 
#24 ·
Kraven,

Was trying to send a message asking some more specific's but web site bombing every time I try. I see your Byron pic's and figure your not far from me. Had questions about 2008 700 Dragon clutching. I think all the general maintenance/alignement/etc. info is perfect. But also have some helix/spring questions. Just installed the 420719 with Black/purple spring, all else stock. Seems responsive in midrange and reaching 8250 or so but primary has at least a 1/2" at top of sheave untouched per a black marker. Not shifting out? I took the longest run I could the other day and hit 100 on the gages before had to shutdown. Fairly long run so feel like I had plenty time to let it shift. Stock primary weights (66), stock spring (black/green), 144 picks down middle. Checked alignment and took a washer out to get down to .030" gap per the TEAM TSS-04 bar. PS-where should the extra washer go I removed? Other side of clutch? Or nowhere?

Appreciate any advice................feel like I am close but something not quite right.

dbarky@sbcglobal.net
 
#25 ·
Kraven,

Was trying to send a message asking some more specific's but web site bombing every time I try. I see your Byron pic's and figure your not far from me. Had questions about 2008 700 Dragon clutching. I think all the general maintenance/alignement/etc. info is perfect. But also have some helix/spring questions. Just installed the 420719 with Black/purple spring, all else stock. Seems responsive in midrange and reaching 8250 or so but primary has at least a 1/2" at top of sheave untouched per a black marker. Not shifting out? I took the longest run I could the other day and hit 100 on the gages before had to shutdown. Fairly long run so feel like I had plenty time to let it shift. Stock primary weights (66), stock spring (black/green), 144 picks down middle. Checked alignment and took a washer out to get down to .030" gap per the TEAM TSS-04 bar. PS-where should the extra washer go I removed? Other side of clutch? Or nowhere?

Appreciate any advice................feel like I am close but something not quite right.

dbarky@sbcglobal.net[/b]
I sent you an e-mail
 
#26 ·
I'm maxxed out on pics, there's a 20 Mb limit here on H.C.S. for uploads

Locate the "T' in the 1/4" rubber hoses near the engine and remove it.

Take a 5/16" diameter bolt (it has a 1/2" hex head ) approx 2" or 2 1/2" long and cut the head off.

Use this to connect the 2 hoses together that attach to the exhaust valves.

The leftover hose going to the solenoid , just wire tie it up to something, no need to plug it.

DO NOT DISCONNECT the wires to the solenoid

Any questions just p.m. me[/b]
i did same as kraven said, cut head off bolt, then tied the hoses off the soleniod back to itself

also have a pic of the push arm installed for anyone who is wondering about doing it or not. it's a cheap and easy to install part which seems to do it's job very well
 

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