Track porting - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 01-01-2007, 03:25 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Can I randomly port my track or is it like studding where you need a pattern?? And is there a specific tool or will a hole saw do ?

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Old 01-01-2007, 04:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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No you don't use a hole saw, it will catch on the cords. Check on SW someone was selling kits w/ template & tool for porting.
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Old 01-01-2007, 09:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I think the place selling the kits is Jagged Edge Performance. Its the same thing as what alot of guys on snowest are making themselves. They take a Holesaw and grind the teeth off then put a sharp edge on it. As far as templates guys are using just about anything solid. All they do is find something that fits between the lugs then drill a couple holes to drill out then put your pilot bits in the holes you drilled with your template and away you go. I haven't done mine yet but plan to before my next trip. 2 1 1/8 holes every or every other row seem to be the kinda agreed upon amount. Sounds like more doesn't give you any more benefit and just weakens the track.
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Old 01-02-2007, 01:39 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I did my on my 06 m5. Did 3-1 1/4in holes, made a template out of plywood and used a sharpened hole saw without a drill bit in it. I heard this could catch a cord and pull it out. I just let the saw cut and melt through. Not sure on what benefit it was because I never road the sled before that. I have been to the snowies twice with it and just have to watch for land mines. My track had 3500 miles on it before I ported it.
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Old 01-03-2007, 11:47 AM   #5 (permalink)
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What are the benefits to the porting?
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Old 01-03-2007, 01:58 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Less snow in the skid, less rotating resistance, less rotating mass, and less air pressure in the tunnel, and a side effect is it throws snow on the rear cooler. These are the reasons i've heard. I'm mostly after less snow in the skid and more track speed which everyone that does it says they get. Some of the other benefits are still up in the air IMO.
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Old 01-05-2007, 10:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I did my 151 two per row and two sizes alternating . After that I had ratcheting. My external drivers go on next week. It took off a wapping 1.5# and I lost about 300 rpm do to tightening the track.
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Old 01-18-2007, 03:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
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You don't need a special pattern, just keep the holes all in line so you cut the least amount of cords in the track that run longitudianlly.
I've ssen tracks w/ up to 5 holes 1-1/4 to 1-3/8" dia (2 holes on outer belts).

I did mine w/ 3 ea 1-1/4 holes equally spaced on the center belt, every row.
You do not need to grind the teeth off a holes saw. Works fine and doesn't pull the cords out. Need a decent drill it takes some power to chew thru the rubber.
Your track will stretch some initially. I ended up adjusting the bolts out about 1/8" 1 time and it hasn't stretched any more in 300+ mi. Other than removing a little weight 2-4 lbs, I noticed slightly better hyfax cooling on trails. Didn't feel any seat of the pants faster, but the track does spin easier by hand, so it has to help a little.
Contemplating doing the other sled too and I'm not convinced that 3 hrs of burning rubber are worth it. It won't harm your track though. Alot of pow sleds w/ more ponies than mine have alot of miles on them w/ ported tracks.
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