Hey guys... Ive been reading abit of posts the past couple of days about my sled i just bought... this is my first sled that ive ever owned still have yet to drive it waiting for the season to start..
Just figured id say hi and see what people have to say... and at same time let me know what to look out for in those sleds what happens to wear fast and such...
alrite well im really crossing my fingers on this one and hoping that its been fixed....
I want to send it in and get a comp test done n im tempted to get the pv's checked and adjusted.. im starting to be abit sketched out abit this wiring harness problem... can some one let me know if it was officially recalled or not!... thanks
I don't think it was an official recall. Pull the pipes & can, cut/bend back all the ties...do some yoga to get your mits under the motor to bend back that tie...get a coat hangert & bend it to pull the harness to the can side...should be able to get a good looke at it if it's rubbed at all...get some currogated auto conduit to slip over to protect & put it all back.
Not sure about cutting the suspension parts tho...it looks cool to hang the skis 3' in the air, but you'll lose every holeshot & have minimal front end bite for cornering. Get some adjustable transfer rods...much better way to go.
The suspension takes some time to dial in. TY has good starting points on preload settings. From there your going to have to experiment to see how she reacts in the turns, etc. A rebuild/revalve is a good place to start.
I don't think it was an official recall. Pull the pipes & can, cut/bend back all the ties...do some yoga to get your mits under the motor to bend back that tie...get a coat hangert & bend it to pull the harness to the can side...should be able to get a good looke at it if it's rubbed at all...get some currogated auto conduit to slip over to protect & put it all back.
Not sure about cutting the suspension parts tho...it looks cool to hang the skis 3' in the air, but you'll lose every holeshot & have minimal front end bite for cornering. Get some adjustable transfer rods...much better way to go.
The suspension takes some time to dial in. TY has good starting points on preload settings. From there your going to have to experiment to see how she reacts in the turns, etc. A rebuild/revalve is a good place to start.[/b]
It was never an official recall, it was only for effected sleds. If the machine didn't start at all there would be no spark at the plugs, but if you switched to high beam it would fire right up and as long as it was running it would operate normally. I spent 2 hours in the dark with a flashlight trying to find the problem, I accidentally hit the high beam switch and the sled started to fire. Very hard way to have to discover a recall. That was the onlytrouble the sled gave me in 4 winters and the new owner has had it for 2 years with no trouble and it's got over 12000 miles. on it now
I've heard of trouble with that harness as well, but the one I'm reffering to goes from the control box on the left side fairing behind the driven clutch and goes up to the headlight switch. I would suggest running the Vin and if it hasn't been done have it replaced before it goes bad. Only about 30 mins to complete the job.
We are not trying to scare you RRL, just giving you good info so if you have the trouble you'll know what to do. These are almost a trouble free sled if you do the maint. suggested here. CLEAN and ADJUST the power valves 2 to 3 times aseason, could prevent a pullthrough of the cable or worse, getting beat by a guy on a SKIDOO. NOT GOOD either way. :smiley-faces7:
I've heard of trouble with that harness as well, but the one I'm reffering to goes from the control box on the left side fairing behind the driven clutch and goes up to the headlight switch. I would suggest running the Vin and if it hasn't been done have it replaced before it goes bad. Only about 30 mins to complete the job.
We are not trying to scare you RRL, just giving you good info so if you have the trouble you'll know what to do. These are almost a trouble free sled if you do the maint. suggested here. CLEAN and ADJUST the power valves 2 to 3 times aseason, could prevent a pullthrough of the cable or worse, getting beat by a guy on a SKIDOO. NOT GOOD either way. :smiley-faces7:[/b]
I've heard of trouble with that harness as well, but the one I'm reffering to goes from the control box on the left side fairing behind the driven clutch and goes up to the headlight switch. I would suggest running the Vin and if it hasn't been done have it replaced before it goes bad. Only about 30 mins to complete the job.
We are not trying to scare you RRL, just giving you good info so if you have the trouble you'll know what to do. These are almost a trouble free sled if you do the maint. suggested here. CLEAN and ADJUST the power valves 2 to 3 times aseason, could prevent a pullthrough of the cable or worse, getting beat by a guy on a SKIDOO. NOT GOOD either way. :smiley-faces7:[/b]
Hmmm the main harness seems to be the common problem that i have found, it was also the cause of my problem. Took it all out retaped everything put a nylon case around it sealed it and put it back through.
Hmmm the main harness seems to be the common problem that i have found, it was also the cause of my problem. Took it all out retaped everything put a nylon case around it sealed it and put it back through.[/b]
im gona call tomorrow and schedual a "check up" for the sled... i prob wont fiddle with the wirring this winter... since they guy mention not havin any problems but will deff take it out once summer comes back around n make sure its all 100%
Its the front arm in the rear suspension that mounts to the sled. Near the bottom there are 2 rubber stoppers and the arm cracks right above the stoppers. If you do a search on totallyamaha you will find many pics of this arm and alot of info on it.
Its the front arm in the rear suspension that mounts to the sled. Near the bottom there are 2 rubber stoppers and the arm cracks right above the stoppers. If you do a search on totallyamaha you will find many pics of this arm and alot of info on it.[/b]
Alrite this is a question for guys that are from Canada Ontario preferably.... how much is the average cost to get your sled a full inspection/tune up?...
i was talkin to my mech that i go see for my 4-wheeler.. n he was mentioning checking the bearings mounting points, track, shocks, comp test, valves, and a couple of other things...
also should i ask him to check the W-arm and stuff for cracks? or do you have to take the sled appart for that?
You can check out the w-arm pretty good with it in the sled. But it is a good idea to check everything over good before the season starts or your asking for problems come riding season.
Alrite this is a question for guys that are from Canada Ontario preferably.... how much is the average cost to get your sled a full inspection/tune up?...
i was talkin to my mech that i go see for my 4-wheeler.. n he was mentioning checking the bearings mounting points, track, shocks, comp test, valves, and a couple of other things...
also should i ask him to check the W-arm and stuff for cracks? or do you have to take the sled appart for that?[/b]
The shop rate in Barrie 2years ago was 95/hour, more than your car's rate. Your best bet is to buy a GOOD shop manual, that will be paid for the first time you use it. This site and totally Yamaha will certainly point you in the right directions with any questions you may encounter. Also , joining a local club will put you into contact with lots of sled mechanics that will help you out usually for the cost of some beer. The SRX's are great sleds and are not know for trouble unless you modify things beyond limits. A couple of suggestions for you;
Keep the clutches clean, wash them down with brake clean a couple times / season
Greese the suspension, there are a ton of greese fittings under the sled and in the steering.
Check the power valves to make sure they move easy, a pulled through cable costs over 100 bucks to fix.
Check the wheel bearings by spinning the wheels and listening for noise and check for roughness when spun by hand
Drive chain tension is HUGE, I've seen guys who didn't check this on any make sled drive the chain right out the bottom of the case, that gets expensive too. Very easy adjustment to make but VERY important.
Just a couple pointers to get you going, hope she's a great sled for you.
The shop rate in Barrie 2years ago was 95/hour, more than your car's rate. Your best bet is to buy a GOOD shop manual, that will be paid for the first time you use it. This site and totally Yamaha will certainly point you in the right directions with any questions you may encounter. Also , joining a local club will put you into contact with lots of sled mechanics that will help you out usually for the cost of some beer. The SRX's are great sleds and are not know for trouble unless you modify things beyond limits. A couple of suggestions for you;
Keep the clutches clean, wash them down with brake clean a couple times / season
Greese the suspension, there are a ton of greese fittings under the sled and in the steering.
Check the power valves to make sure they move easy, a pulled through cable costs over 100 bucks to fix.
Check the wheel bearings by spinning the wheels and listening for noise and check for roughness when spun by hand
Drive chain tension is HUGE, I've seen guys who didn't check this on any make sled drive the chain right out the bottom of the case, that gets expensive too. Very easy adjustment to make but VERY important.
Just a couple pointers to get you going, hope she's a great sled for you.[/b]
Hey ouch!!! 95/hour!!
I spoke to my mech that i see for my atv today... he said he will inspect everything clean everything and tune everything up for me..he charges 50$ an hour... which really good compared to the 95... but he is a private mech... and keeps good deals with the locals... im def gona learn to do my own work soon but dont got time to this season... busy fixing up my atv... and snow gona be falling soon!
I wasnt sure he worked on sleds until i called him today.. so i got luckey on that..
Hey ouch!!! 95/hour!!
I spoke to my mech that i see for my atv today... he said he will inspect everything clean everything and tune everything up for me..he charges 50$ an hour... which really good compared to the 95... but he is a private mech... and keeps good deals with the locals... im def gona learn to do my own work soon but dont got time to this season... busy fixing up my atv... and snow gona be falling soon!
I wasnt sure he worked on sleds until i called him today.. so i got luckey on that..[/b]
Since it was made in 2000 it would be a 2001. Model year is always one year ahead of present year(2009 sleds are already out, 2010 sleds will be out in April 2009).
Since it was made in 2000 it would be a 2001. Model year is always one year ahead of present year(2009 sleds are already out, 2010 sleds will be out in April 2009).[/b]
good point... but i might off looked at the wrong thing = /.... now when u said tunnel... to check for the year n stuff... the only thing i could find that would be the year n date it was made was the hood cover... was a sticker there which said 00 n stuff... is that the right thing im looking at?... if not... what did u mean by the tunnel... cause i looked every where n couldnt find anything else that had numbers or a date writting on it... minus the data stickers for the clutch octane n stuff for the sled near the clutch....
The "tunnel" is the entire polished metal piece the seat is bolted to, basically the entire rear of the sled more or less. When sitting on the sled, look down towards were you feet go, there should be a small placard rivited to the side of the tunnel that shows the manufactured date by month and year along with the VIN. As mentioned, dates in the summer and fall would indicate the NEXT year as the model.
For example, if the sled was made in November 2000, it would be a 2001. You should also have the registration signed over to you from the prior owner. That will list the year for certain.
The "tunnel" is the entire polished metal piece the seat is bolted to, basically the entire rear of the sled more or less. When sitting on the sled, look down towards were you feet go, there should be a small placard rivited to the side of the tunnel that shows the manufactured date by month and year along with the VIN. As mentioned, dates in the summer and fall would indicate the NEXT year as the model.
For example, if the sled was made in November 2000, it would be a 2001. You should also have the registration signed over to you from the prior owner. That will list the year for certain.
thanks!.. ill have to look closely to that then... its pretty worn... from what i remember seeing.... thanks!
There could be a mistake on the registration pappers when he bought it... cause im 3rd owner.. and they say its a 2000... but some people here are saying its a 01 hood and the front arms w-arms if im right?.. since the 00 was all blue... and the arms are silver...
so either its an 00 n the hood was replaced along with the front arms... or its al together a 01...
to me it makes no difference.. 1 year newer than exepcted, bonus... ill make the correction on the pappers...
Thanks for pointing it out more specificly!...
also... i kno nothin about sleds or anythin n one of my buddies i play hockey with has a 800 polaris xc... hes a die hard polaris guy n doesnt seem to be too keen about yamaha's.... would i give him a good run for his money? his is an 04
im just askin cause if ppl say i got him hands down.... im putting money on it...lol... if not.. well we still gona "drag" for the hell of it.. always fun... but its always nice to get a few bucks outa ur friends!.. haha
thanks!.. ill have to look closely to that then... its pretty worn... from what i remember seeing.... thanks!
There could be a mistake on the registration pappers when he bought it... cause im 3rd owner.. and they say its a 2000... but some people here are saying its a 01 hood and the front arms w-arms if im right?.. since the 00 was all blue... and the arms are silver...
so either its an 00 n the hood was replaced along with the front arms... or its al together a 01...
to me it makes no difference.. 1 year newer than exepcted, bonus... ill make the correction on the pappers...
Thanks for pointing it out more specificly!...
also... i kno nothin about sleds or anythin n one of my buddies i play hockey with has a 800 polaris xc... hes a die hard polaris guy n doesnt seem to be too keen about yamaha's.... would i give him a good run for his money? his is an 04
im just askin cause if ppl say i got him hands down.... im putting money on it...lol... if not.. well we still gona "drag" for the hell of it.. always fun... but its always nice to get a few bucks outa ur friends!.. haha[/b]
They were most likely looking at the year it was built,,like said above,,the MFD is for the next year,,,, you will kill the 800 if it tuned ......R2R
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