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Ski Shims 101, - Why, and How

104K views 42 replies 28 participants last post by  cats19 
#1 ·
OK, your sled is handling wierd. The front end seems to have a mind of it's own. You've heard me or somebody else mention these, and are wondering what the big deal is. Read on...

My Apex scared the daylights out of me when I first got it, frequently, and at the most "inconvenient" times (read that going WAY to fast). I tried these as a last ditch effort and they simply transformed it. Since, I've now used them on several different brand sleds that were misbehaving (including the Lady's 07 IQ), and to the sled, these shims have made a dramatic difference if not fixed the problem entirely. Sounds like I'm selling snake oil doesn't it?

After verifying there's no bent/broken parts in the front suspension, and your toe in (out) is properly set, try this with nothing else before you start throwing money at it. They're nearly free if you're handy, and only take a few minutes, so nothing much lost if you aren't totally happy with the results.

Here's a link by the guy that had this brainstorm if you're wondering why they work. I found it pretty interesting, but you can skip that and just believe they do if you like...

Challenge - Bergstrom Skegs, Inc.


Some pics if you'd like to try a set. It's going to take you longer to take your skis off and put thim back on than it is to do up a pair of these. You should be pulling the ski bolts to get some grease on them once a season anyway, so....

The first pics show a shim marked up on a new piece of hyfax (use any material you'd like!). There's no reason to do this to a new one, but I didn't have any scrap handy when doing the pics. Just clamp it in a vice and make the angle cut. When that's done, turn it and cut to the correct length. Total cutting time with a hacksaw, maybe 5 minutes per shim. With a sharp hacksaw blade, even less (mine are always dull!). No precision required as long as the look something like the next pics (these are Yammi. Sorry Poo faithfull, these were handy) when done. You can see I used 2 small screws (not clear, sorry, look for the rust marks), maybe an inch long to hold the shim in place. That's all it takes. Add glue first if it'll make you sleep better.

The acid test/confirmation to tell if you've done this right occurs when you have the sled sitting on pavement, and can get down on you knees and see the front carbide is clear of the pavement. You can see clearly that the carbide in back is now going to be the one to wear out first. Bergstrom has some pictures posted in that link above to illustrate this if you'd like. -Al
 

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#4 ·
also, on some sleds (like my 99 XC700SP) , the ski rubbers were installed backwards from the factory, with the tall portion forward. There was a bulletin out if I remember correctly, advising to swap them around if one experienced darting issues.
 
#6 ·
... and I'm using pieces of old drive belts

For installing these shims, anyone tried just to jack up the front end, pull up the ski in the front as high as it goes, then push in the shim from behind, preferably with glue.

With snug rubbers, IMO it can often be hard to mount the skis to the spindles without lots of aggravation and foul language... thinking of trying the above next time.
 
#34 ·
... and I'm using pieces of old drive belts
Not bad... whatevers werkin man.


Thanks guys! Another thought that might be worth mentioning?

If you aren't swearing at me/the sled when reinstalling the skis after shimming, your shims aren't thick enough...

I've been putting a 2x4 on it's side a few inches ahead of the ski bolt to angle the ski up. Then con the biggest guy you can find into standing on the spindle while getting the bolt started (Regarding FARC members, YOU stand on it and have somebody start the bolt for you!). That's worked well so far, but I'll admit to using msz40's approach the first time. -Al
Ive ised a 4x4 or cynder block.


Micahicks put me onto this early in the year. I'm a believer. Transformed the ride of my Dragon this year. Easier steering but precise. Love it!
I tried it for last season after reading the bergstrom site. 300 miles of awsome.


If anyones on the fence.. GET OFF IT. Go do this!.

My big ol tcat with woody doolies and stock skis was amazing. Precise. Less effort no darting..

Best of all i spent most of my time 1 handing it as if i was on the motorcycle..... and it fel so safe and predictable.


I use full width ( no cut taper). Slide bottoms for my shims screwed into the rubbers
 
#7 ·
Going to "shim city"



Great post, should be a "sticky"
 
#8 ·
Well, after some input from my son and my girlfriend, I decided to go after the darting issue on my 2006 Fusion 600 HO. I cut angled spacers out of some excess hyfax I had lying around. Screwed them to the bottom of the ski saddle rubbers and re-installed the skis. Installing the ski's took the most time and energy as I had to fight to get the bolt started into the spindle base. Twisting and prying the ski, I got the bolt started. I "tapped it thru the spindle bushing then twisted the ski by pulling and twisting on the ski loop handle. Gonna try it out this weekend. If it works, I may try it on my Pro R 800.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Thanks guys! Another thought that might be worth mentioning?

If you aren't swearing at me/the sled when reinstalling the skis after shimming, your shims aren't thick enough...

I've been putting a 2x4 on it's side a few inches ahead of the ski bolt to angle the ski up. Then con the biggest guy you can find into standing on the spindle while getting the bolt started (Regarding FARC members, YOU stand on it and have somebody start the bolt for you!). That's worked well so far, but I'll admit to using msz40's approach the first time. -Al
 
#11 ·
Figured I'd add the shims to my 800 since my Pro R carbides wore thin towards the front also after 425 miles. We'll see what happens on Sunday's ride. Hopefully it will stay on the trail. I also reduced front ski pressure on both sleds.

By the way, I love the 800 pro R and wheelies are cool when you are a 48+ year old guy!
 
#12 ·
Thanks for the post. Made the same setup this summer and installed in my 98 xc. I also tried a few different thickness ones. I started with 1/8" then 3/16" and settled for around 1/4" I had no problem installing the skis and bolt. I am happy with the results. Yours look like they are closer to the 3/8" range. I guess everyones sled may be slightly different.
 
#13 · (Edited)
One other tip for those of you who run a thick shim and are having issues trying to get the spindle bolt inserted is to grind a "V" chamfer on the threaded tip of the ski bolt. This helps to find the hole center of the ski sole bracket. Good luck ! This sticky is a GREAT tech tip !
 
#19 ·
great stickey... i might find myself doing this mod halfway through the season since i just pulled my sled from the garage and into the trailer.... i imagine my new ride will handle better than my old '98 700XC. Probably a lil slower... but more comfy and fun.
 
#25 ·
Oh yeah duh. Man I hate Mondays. LOL

The wedge would push the back of the ski down causing the wear to shift rearward, correct?

Right now my sled wears right in the middle leaving both the front and rear portion of the rod. I would think this is good as it puts all the pressure on the sharpened carbide portion?
 
#23 ·
Great post. Do you know if this has any effect on powder riding with the skis tipped slightly? I don't use the trails much unless I need to in order to access some back country or deep powder.
I have noticed darting when I am on the trail.
 
#26 ·
thats correct. Sounds like your skis are in balance, should not be neccesary to shim if they dont dart
 
#29 ·
I cannot for the life of my get one of my bolts out to shim the ski. One side, piece of cake, the other side spins nicely, but won't back out even with the influence of a hammer. I'd afraid to damage the bolt if I hit any harder. Any advice? or should I just get the sledge out and buy a new bolt.....?
 
#30 ·
What you've run into there is the reason many will suggest pulling and greasing that bolt once a season, preferably when summarizing?

The bolt has seized to the bushing within the spindle, which of course is much bigger than the bolt hole. At this point, you are trying to save the ski. The bolt is done for. Some penetrating oil liberally applied may help? While beating on it with a hammer, realize that at some point the end of that bolt, which is now mushroomed, needs to go through that bushing. Point being, when/if you get it to move, stop what you're doing and cut the mushroomed end off, then try to proceed without mushrooming it again.

Or, if it's time to get ugly with it, you can get a cut off grinder and carefully reach down between the spindle and the ski to cut the bolt and mess up the bushing. At least the ski will have been saved?

Best of luck! -Al
 
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