Polaris power valves - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 03-30-2004, 01:21 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I know this site has a how to clean power valves, But! I just spoke with a person @ Polaris about the power valves and how to clean them.
He stated that the best they had used is oven cleaner, yes. that's right oven cleaner.
The trick is to heat the valve up spray the oven cleaner on the valve and wrap a wetted rag with oven cleaner on the valve and keep doing this until all the carbon breaks free.
He also stated that wet valves don't stick - dry valves stick, like a frying pan.
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Old 03-31-2004, 09:54 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Was this person a dealer or a Polaris employee, I've heard numerous times that oven cleaner works the best but it is bad for the coating on the valves. I use a product called CLEENS from GM Goodwrench, it's labeled a "combustion chamber cleaner" works real good.

'03 XC 700 VES, twin pipes.

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Old 03-31-2004, 11:17 AM   #3 (permalink)
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after we clean them do we spray anything on them.
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Old 03-31-2004, 06:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Maybe unrelated but after a year of valve issuews with my 03 Pro x 800, I found a little tip of my own. When pulling the bellows and valve out I noticed that the hole in the cylinder that pressurizes the bellow was half covered by the stock gasket. After trimming the gasket hole to match the hole in the bellows manifold the valve performance seems much more consistent. While you're at it, when you have the valve out take a drill, 1/8" I think and thread it down that pressure hole carefully while twisting clockwise and you'll be amazed at the carbon you get out of that port. Seems to really wake up the action of the valves noticeably.
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Old 04-01-2004, 08:46 AM   #5 (permalink)
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The best way to clean ur valves is use Kleen-Flo carb cleaner,not in the spray but in bulk.I have a speacial container that I fill and set the valves in just so the valves r in the solution and leave for 24 hours,take out and wipe with a rag.
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Old 04-01-2004, 02:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I spoke a person named JR who works for Lube Tech (the makers of Polaris oils and some of the Arctic Cat oils) they work hand in hand with each other.
Polaris tells them what they want and Lube Tech designs the oil to suit they're needs.
JR told me to heat the power valve, then apply oven cleaner and keep doing this until all the carbon is free - the trick is to get the valve hot.
I use cleaning the inside of my MC 800 yesterday trying to clean up some of the carbon build up and it did'nt seem like any time before yesterday that the cleaner were doing they're jobs - until I found out that the engine must be really warm/hot to wrinkle the carbon build up and I guess that holds true to the valves also.
When I cleaned my RMK 800 power valves (I had no problem with sticking, just checking every thing out on the engine) I did the old dipped the power valve into lacquer thinner let it sit, scrap with something dull, well that sound good but did'nt work.
I ended up using a hand brass wire brush, platte knief (dull) scotch brit, WD40 and more lacquer thinner, the results yes they are clean but they do have polished areas and I really took my time doing them.
For some reason the PTO side was much worse than the MAG side and when the valve came out the sides were not as nice as the MAG side - there were some scratches along the sides that removed the coating.
Getting back to the question no the oven cleaner is not s'pose to remove the coating.
I tried 3 different oils in its short life (under 200 miles) Klotz, VESII and Blue Marble - I checked each time I switched over how the pistons looked as well as the cyllinders and power valves and I have to say that the VESII was cleaner than the other two oils and that the Blue Marble left the hard carbon build up on the tips of the power valves.
Blue Marble also left carbon build up on my spark plugs on my MC 800 (EFI) oil pump set @ factory setting and is right on the mark.
I am not cutting down Blue Marble or Klotz but after using them and inspecting them I think, infact I know that the factory oils are the way to go - inless you want to guess work the jetting and oil pump settings and the factory has already done that for you.
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Old 04-01-2004, 02:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I forgot to tell you - pull a good coat of oil on the valves before you put them back in - remember carbon does not stick to a oily surface.
JR also told me to set the oil pump one tick to the rich side - because the oil ratio from idle to 3/8 throttle is pretty lean he said and the extra oil will help coat the power valves.
Most of the problem with the power valves is at lower rpm's he stated
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Old 04-01-2004, 03:18 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I was thinking of using a "FINE" grade wire wheel on the bench grinder I have tried it on soft metals and can not even make it mark up at all just seems to polish to my eyes and touch. Any other wire brush experience or concerns?
Yamadoo (YamaPoo)
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Old 04-01-2004, 06:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
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i use a wire wheel on my bench grinder to clean my valves. Works great. 5000 miles on original valves.
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Old 04-02-2004, 01:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Hey Yamadoo
I tried a hand held brass brush and I do not believe that took any finish off the power valve - but, I do have on the pto side power valve some polished areas.
If I was to get new power valves I would use only the oven cleaner method.
I was told by JR that there is a kit available for 04 down, same one used on the 05's.
I would oil the Heck out of the power valves putting them back in.
I would also say this stick with OEM oils the others are not worth the time and expense.
If I can say something about other oils I have tried many a oil brands by use of my lawn equipment - they have no coolant, no power valves, takes shorter time for the oil to get to key areas and all of the oils I have used worked well in a leaf blower or weed wacker or chain saw. But! when you get them in the snowmobile engine thats a different story.
Amsoil Interceptor (I had a bottle laying around) I mixed @ 50-1 and ran it in my weed wacker yesterday, it left a lot of film on the piston tops but cleaned up with a q-tip right down to the metal (and that baby was smoking hot - ran it for over 2 hours) so that should work good in the power valves machines.
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