No Spark on '97 ZRT 600 - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 08-23-2005, 08:05 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Any input is greatly appreciated!

To start off, last season I noticed it was sometimes impossible to shut off my sled. I figured the CDI box was on the way out, and planned to replace it over the summer. I bought a CDI box and started planning the project. I tried starting it one last time before I tore it apart - no such luck. It was dead. I just gave up and started replacing the CDI box as well as converting the aftermarket handlebar setup from the previous owner back to its original factory condition.

I now have the new CDI box and the factory handlebars in place and for the life of me I can not figure out why there is no spark. I know the magneto is working because the headlight and taillight light up when you pull the rope.

Where do I start looking for problems? I have checked, double-checked, and triple-checked all my connections. I have check all the safety switches on the carbs and the one in the handlebar. I checked them by unplugging them and checking them with and Ohm meter. Is there a way to check the safety circuit with all the switches hooke up? Maybe I have a problem somewhere in the safety loop.

Again, any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your help.
Kendall
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Old 08-23-2005, 08:19 AM   #2 (permalink)
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i know this seems dumb what with this being a closed circuit system and all, when i started working at b&b boat my first project was a 95 zrt800 they'd been on for 2 yrs!!!!! with no spark, they tried all new equiptment from coils to stators to cdi,,,,,,well you get the idea. anyhow what i found to be the problem was they'd only been unbolting and installing all the items they tried, little did they realize this ignition style NEEDS a good ground at the stator mounting surface to stator backing plate and backing plate to engine cases also to work(hence closed circuit, not open), one hour later including diagnostics, the sled had beautiful spark, this is where i'd start if i were you, make sure you have a good reliable spark tester also(theirs was missing intermittently on one cyl leading them to believe there was still a problem until i installed my own verifying my results), good luck, just make sure all grounds are good and clean(metal to metal) :div20: to say the least, it set me high in the sights of the owner :beer:

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Old 08-23-2005, 09:01 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I have checked the ground going to the CDI, but not the stator. I assume you need to pull the recoil, but do I also have to pull the flywheel to check ground to the stator?
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Old 08-23-2005, 09:42 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I had a 96 ZRT600 that had the same problem. One way that I know of to check for a safety switch problem is to plug in the jumper wire into the main wiring harness at the motor. It should have come in the tool kit. This will bypass all of the safety switches and allow you to have spark. When I did this the sled started. What ended up being bad was the key switch. The back of the switch had broken off in the harness so the sled thought the key was turned off. Unplugged the key and road it that way until I sold it in 2000.

Good luck and hope this helps.
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Old 08-23-2005, 10:23 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I didn't get a tool kit with this sled, so I am not sure what jumper you are referring to. Is it #12 in the following picture?
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Old 08-23-2005, 01:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I remember that there used to be many people having problems with ZRT's not shutting off a few years ago. As I remember most of it seemed to be traced to water in an electrical connection under the motor. Check all electrical connectors and make sure you use dilectic grease on all contacts. I think that with the normally open ignition you don't need a jumper to bypass the throttle safety switch, just unplug the three prong connector near the base of the handle bars. The safety switch should not interfere with starting and idling.
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Old 08-23-2005, 07:37 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by kannegk@Aug 23 2005, 08:01 AM
I have checked the ground going to the CDI, but not the stator.* I assume you need to pull the recoil, but do I also have to pull the flywheel to check ground to the stator?
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[/quote]
yes, while you're at it, clean all metal surfaces such as the recoil cup mounting shroud that has ground wires going to it also(can't overlook anything here) :div20:
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Old 08-24-2005, 06:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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check to make sure you have zero resistance from your coil to the spark plug cap while your at it too....
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Old 08-24-2005, 06:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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zero resistance as in a good connection?, or as zero resistance in primary side of coil to plug cap period??????? (this question is loaded)
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Old 08-24-2005, 09:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by C-NOTEPLUSf503@Aug 24 2005, 05:59 PM
zero resistance as in a good connection?, or as zero resistance in primary side of coil to plug cap period??????? (this question is loaded)
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[/quote]

zero as in a good connection so you know for sure there are no other "gremlins"... :div20:

plug wires/caps usually go bad a lot sooner than factory wiring/connections in general... so its just peace of mind to know for sure.... IMO

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