How-To: Install Electric Digital Water Temp Gauge - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 06-20-2011, 11:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default How-To: Install Digital Water Temp Gauge

I took some ideas from some Crossfire instructions, and wanted to put a gauge on my '03 Firecat. Really couldn't find any How-To's on this, so I thought I'd write something up for everyone.


Parts:

- Digital Water Temp Gauge, I picked up a Green Cyberdyne (A020E160Y) - $48 from Jegs - Looks like this gauge is discontinued, but Cyberdyne replaced the A-Series with the B-series, they just have removable prisms now instead of colored LEDs: part # B220E460Y (with temp sender) or B220E460N (without temp sender). I found these at Summit Racing for $81 or $68, respectively.

- 3/4" temp sender adapter, I got one from Grip-n-Rip for $30 (7/8" is for 04+ Firecat's)

- Koso AC/DC Converter, I picked this up from Dennis Kirk for $38 (this is a rectifier as well as a regulator)

- 3 2-prong trailer plugs (they come with 2 connected together per box, got these from Napa for $3/ea)

- 2-outlet accessory plug (1639-623) & 3-outlet accessory plug (1639-624), each is about $7-8 dollars from your Cat dealer


Instructions:

Remove the 10 hex screws that hold the belly protector on:



Next you can either choose to drain the coolant, or clamp off the hose under the engine with 2 needle nose pliers:



HINT: zip tie the needle nose pliers together, otherwise you'll end up bumping them after you cut the coolant line and then you'll have coolant pouring out everywhere



The Cyberdyne gauge assumes that the sender is grounded to the engine block, since this install is not, add a ring terminal with a crimped wire + washers before putting on thread sealer and bolting the sender into the adapter (I think I used 3 washers, that will help with a tight fit between the sender and adapter).

Cut the coolant line, slide the clamps over the hoses and then slide the adapter in the hose on each end (use some petroleum jelly or something to help you slide it on, it's not the easiest to do) - the clamps that come with the adapter are too big, do yourself a favor and get smaller clamps.





Run the ground wire & sender wires together up the front of the recoil:





Bolt the other end of the ground wire where the engine ground meets the chassis:



Run the sender wire all the way up with the main wiring harness (I used zip ties to hold it with the wiring harness):




Remove the Arctic Cat decal from the lower-left side by the speedometer:



Wrap some duct tape on the inside of the hood where you'll be drilling to catch the pieces you cut out:



Use your 2" hole saw and make a cut (be sure to check clearance on the inside of the hood next to the gauge, there's a bracket that holds the speedometer in place and is wider than the face):



Solder a 2-prong plug together with the right wires coming out of the gauge. Red - Positive Input, & Black - Negative Input, Brown - Positive Output, & Black - Negative Output (be sure to put heat-shrink tubing on the wires before you solder them):



Since you are hooking up the input wires of the Koso regulator to the output of the 2-prong accessory plug on the sled, you have to be sure to use the Male as the Positive (soldered to Red wire from Koso and heat-shrinked red tubing) and Female as the Negative. With the output connections, you use the opposite, use the Female as the Positive (soldered to Brown wire from Koso and heat-shrinked red tubing) and Male as the Negative:



Heat the tubing around the soldered joints:



Remove the duct tape and any plastic shavings, insert the gauge into the hole, & tighten the brace on the back of the gauge. I filled in the Hi-setting hole on the back of the gauge with silicon because I didn't need to adjust it (that's what the Purple wire is for), then just wrapped the wire around the brace.

Use a 2-prong plug on the back of the Cyberdyne gauge as well. Solder the Red Positive wire from the gauge to the Male connector of the 2-prong plug (heat-shrinked a piece of Red tubing on to remember that connector is Positive), and solder the Black Negative wire from the gauge to the Female connector on the 2-prong plug.

Connect the White sender wire to the White wire on the back of the gauge, I crimped on some easy quick-connects if I ever need to disconnect the wires.

Plug the input positive/negative plug from the Koso, that you just got done soldering, into the existing accessory plug behind the speedometer (you can use the 2-outlet accessory plug here if you want to keep an AC plug available). Plug your 3-outlet accessory adapter into the output positive/negative plug from the Koso, that you just got done soldering. Plug the Cyberdyne gauge output plug into 1 of the connections on the 3-outlet accessory plug (I'm using the other 1 to power the LED's in my speedometer, and I wanted to have a spare one available). I also zip tied the Koso regulator on the speedometer bracket:



After you've checked all your connections, fire up the sled:





After you verified the gauge is working and no coolant is leaking from under the engine, put the 10 hex screws back in the belly protector.


Total Time: 2-3 hours (including the time to clean up all the spilled coolant and making all the wire connections neat and clean)


Enjoy your new Digital Temp Gauge!!
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Last edited by stadt11; 08-05-2014 at 10:19 AM.
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Old 06-21-2011, 07:20 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Good write-up, you should post it in the FAQ section....
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Old 06-21-2011, 07:35 AM   #3 (permalink)
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great write up! A temp gauge is a must have on the 03. You could also pull the DC volts from your fuel pump wiring (save buying the converter) as the gauge does not use much just make sure to fuse it.
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Old 06-21-2011, 11:54 AM   #4 (permalink)
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That's a great writeup! Snow Goer magazine has a how-to story in every issue. Do you have any ideas for how-to stories you think we should write? (or maybe we should just hire stadt11 to do them since he does such a good job ) Go here to read about how to replace a seat cover.
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Old 06-21-2011, 02:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks guys. I used the Koso converter because I didn't want to build my own and it's both a regulator & rectifier in one. I wanted to regulate the power coming from the sled at a constant voltage, which was required for this gauge, and my LED's are also brighter on DC power which I could just plug into the converter as well.
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Old 08-05-2011, 01:51 AM   #6 (permalink)
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You can buy a kit anolog or digital ready to install from my company, J&T Products.

When I called cyberdine and wanted them to make me gauges for atv's and sleds for outside conditions they told me they would not make a gauge for me. I was told people were using them for sled and quads and the gauge was not holding up. They are made for cars. They are not water proof or can take alot of vibration. They have a warranty but if they know what you used it on they will not replace it. I had the kits made just for this use.
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Old 08-06-2011, 01:31 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Just to put this out there, I'm not here promoting a brand, just doing a How-To on my install because I'm a do-it-yourselfer. I knew you already made a kit, but I decided to choose all the parts myself and make my own kit (more flexibility).

I chose Cyberdyne because they make a green gauge, yours only comes in red. These gauges stand up to the elements, just do a search and you will find lots of guys that put them on their sleds, not just on AC's. You have a nice kit, just wasn't what I was looking for.
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Old 08-09-2011, 11:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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and every other year you will have to replace the sending unti I'm goin on my third one this year the end of the wire will break from the vibration of the motor and the bouncing around it will take
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Old 08-09-2011, 11:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I've been known to build a big cone out of rtv on sending units or sensors where a wire exits like that. Seems to support the wire pretty good. Nice write up.
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Old 08-10-2011, 07:30 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stronger800 View Post
I've been known to build a big cone out of rtv on sending units or sensors where a wire exits like that. Seems to support the wire pretty good. Nice write up.
Good point "Stronger" I've had a few sensors with broken wires because of vibration, RTV does work great.
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