f7 standard suspension set-up - HCS Snowmobile Forums

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Old 01-21-2003, 07:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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This is working for me. F7 standard no studs 200 pound rider; 6 " shaper wear bars, shorten limiter strap 1 hole, 1 inch of thread exposed on front skid shock, rear spring cams on one and three. Throw the coupling blocks in the garbage, you don't need them !! Adjust front shock springs so a arms are almost parellel to the ground and adjust to your liking from there ( I really loosened the front shocks of from the original setting and front of the sled is much lower now. ) rails like a ZR in the corners now, NO push, very little ski lift ( skis still bite under acceleration into corners ). I made many changes at once so I honestly can't rate the shaper wear bars but these changes took the F7 from tippy and squirelly handling into a real corner carver that smooth in the rough too. would like to see other ideas too for the F7 STANDARD no studs with a rider in my weight range.
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Old 01-21-2003, 09:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Sounds like work but ill try anything once it warms up, great tips!!
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Old 01-21-2003, 10:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Got snow,

I also have an F7 standard and have been looking for a good suspension setup. I made some small adjustments this past weekend to try and find a setup I like. I tried loosening up my rear skid springs and also the preload on my front ski springs like Rob had suggested to others on the site, but I didn't like it all because I think his setup is more geared for the sno-pro suspension. I noticed that the steering became very loose and didn't corner very well, so I tightened the front ski springs a little and it definitely did help, but was kinda tippy in the corners. This weekend I plan on making some adjustments to the rear skid shock spring load (tightening) and taking out my coupling blocks like you said to see what happens. Hopefeully this will improve my handling and ride. I would also like to shorten my limiter straps and purchase a pair of the SLP ski's as well for an even better ride. I am curious to see what kind of setup other people are running on their standars F7's like ours, so if anyone has a suspension setup that they like better than the stock setup, please post them. ~Thanks for the tips.
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Old 01-21-2003, 10:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
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What is a good hole shot set up for standard f7 no studs.want the biggest foot print possible need to prove a point any help would be appreciated.
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Old 01-22-2003, 08:20 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Per the article in this months SnowTech magazine it says to set the center of the rear bumper at 17" and the front bumper between 16.5 and 18" with you sitting on it. So you will need some help to do this but SnowTech says this is what Arctic Cat recomends.
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Old 01-22-2003, 08:25 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Got snow...you notice the thing bottoming out? I am 180, with 128 studs...rear cams both at 3, limiter straps shortened 1 hole, front skit shock with about 1.5" of thread showing, and front a-arms parallel with ground. Thing corners well, will push on ice but every sled does, but the bottoming is rough. Trying to figure out how many other standards are bottoming.
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Old 01-22-2003, 03:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Chill50,
Do you know if this is recommended for a standard F7 or a sno-pro F7 because I know there is a big difference between the two. This is the first I've heard of adjusting the sled this way, but it's definitely worth a try. Thanks for the tip.
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Old 01-22-2003, 03:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I am using a set-up similiar set-up as got snow, only limiter straps stock setting, couplers on 2, and spring cams on 2. Like most I noticed no change with the coupler settings and am considering removing for next ride. I did notice nice improvement with the shapers.

Question: Why off set the spring cam settings?
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Old 01-22-2003, 04:15 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Sled-hed,

The above numbers are for the standard suspension. For the Sno-pro arctic cat states the numbers will be 1-2" higher because of the stiffer springs. Also in the article, is states to add 1/4" to 1/2" of preload to all three shocks it you still experience that bottoming out feeling. Add if that doesn't work they recommended getting the sno-pro spring which is 60 lb/in stiffer. Then if it still feels like it is bottoming out buy the larger rear torsion springs(.405").

Or trade your sled in and get a sno-pro. That's what I'm going to do.
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Old 01-22-2003, 05:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Green Team-I have an F7 standard with same setup as yours with the exception of shortening the limiter strap. I weigh 220 and I bottom the center shock more than I'd like-it is actually limiting me in some of the rough trails. I think I am going to go with the stiffer springs and shock valving. I hear it is 80 bucks plus 4 hrs. labor but I'm sure my dealer will give me a break on that. Not sure what else to try-I turned the coupler blocks to max thinking the sooner coupling would help but I lost too much weight transfer and put them back to minimum. I would like to take them out completely but I'm afraid the bottoming would get even worse. I should try stiffening the center spring but I'm afraid I will lose too much ski-pressure. Any other ideas out there?
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